Trunk Box will not open

[ScottW]

The trunk box on my 2010 suddenly will not open more than about 4 inches. It seems like i is getting hung up on the support rod.

 

Any ideas?

[V7Goose]

Well, the good news is that you dealer has to fix it for you if you cannot.

 

The problem is a common one - one of the little flat head screws on the arm catch mechanism has come loose and is jamming up the works. Probably all you need to do is jiggle it up and down a bit until the screw moves enough to allow the trunk to open. Maybe if you just take a long ride the road bouncing and vibration will do that fore you.

Goose

[Kregerdoodle]

The trunk box on my 2010 suddenly will not open more than about 4 inches. It seems like i is getting hung up on the support rod.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

That is what is happening, the lid catch on the left ( looking at it ) probably has a loose screw that is getting hung up. try to get your arm in there or something and mess with the arm of the catch, dont force it open as that will bend it and make things worse, if anf when you get it open remove the plastic cover and check all the screws that hold it in place. sorry I cant be of more help, mine did the same thing and that is what was wrong.

 

K

[ScottW]

thanks for the fast reply. I'll work on it tonight after work

[V7Goose]

Like I said, this is very common on new bikes. When you put the screw back, a dab of Loctite will ensure it never comes out again. But I have also found that just properly tightening the screws will last for 100,000 miles.

 

That screw is one of about six or ten you are guaranteed to have come loose unless you get to them first on a new RSV! Well, that particular one only affects about 25% of the bikes, but there are others that will get 80% or more.

Goose

[ScottW]

Compared to my last bike, if that is all I end up dealing with, I'll be a happy camper

[rod]

What they said. If you don't want to go to the dealer for the FREE warranted, check the screws for all the latches and hinges and put some locktite on them. Also on the shift lever, not on any plastic parts.Grease all the latch parts on the trunck and bags. Rod

[Mariner Fan]

A buddy of mine didn't know about the catch that holds the trunk lid up and forced the lid down. It ended up bending the mechanism and afterword I noticed that the lid didn't want to open all the way. So, I ended up forcing it back up and all is well.

[ScottW]

It turns out both screws had fallen out. After putting both back in and checking for others that might have needed adjustment, everything works.

[Marcarl]

Don't forget to satisfy the shift lever, or you just might be going down the road one day without it!

[RedRider]

A point of clarification - Loctite BLUE.

 

+1 on the shift lever bolt. Take that out, add a couple of drops of Loctite BLUE and put it back in. If not done in your garage, it will be done on the side of the road (at 2:00 in the morning, in the rain, with your significant other whining about not being at the hotel yet).

 

RR

[V7Goose]

I used to recommend Loctite for the shift bolt, but I think I have a better idea now. The problem is that the shift lever pivot (where this bolt is located) needs regular lubrication or it will wear a big egg-shaped hole and wobble like crazy. Loctite only works on dry threads, so this becomes a problem.

 

I now just take the bolt to my vice and give the side of it a quick smack with a hammer, slightly flattening several threads on the end. This creates a self-locking bolt without damaging the female threads. It does not need a lot of deformation - if you can feel any drag at all when you put the bolt back in, it will be enough.

Goose

Edited April 25, 2011 by V7Goose