Cut the darkness.

[Red Rider]

I just installed some LED turn signals/running rights from custom dynamics. Now I've got a yellow looking head light. I'm looking for a head light that'll cut the darkness like a knife. I'm not an electrician I just want a plug and play head light that's bright and doesn't draw to many amps. I was thinking about the Piaa lights from custom dynamics does any one have them and like them what one do you have? Part number if you have it also..

[BoomerCPO]

I and several others here have installed the HID headlight available from Canadian Cruiser Customizing.....and I can verify that you will in fact "light up the night" with that unit....and it uses LESS power than the stock OEM H4 bulb.

 

Boomer....who sez ya can't run High Beam on the HID at night cuz it will put the Cagers into the ditches quick.

 

Added note: the light from the HID is a bright white/blue color.

Edited April 19, 2011 by BoomerCPO
added info.

[RedRider]

Yup, the CCC HID headlight does turn night into day. However, you will need to add a switch to manually turn on the headlight after the bike is started. The starting pull from the engine pulls the voltage down far enough to distinguish the light if it turns on normally. The manual override takes care of it.

 

If you would like to do something a little less involved, you can get a major upgrade by changing the stock 0.5 candlepower headlight to a Sylvania Silverstar Ultra. It is truely plug and play and will significantly improve your lighting. Not quite HID, but much better than stock.

 

RR

[Seaking]

I just installed some LED turn signals/running rights from custom dynamics. Now I've got a yellow looking head light. I'm looking for a head light that'll cut the darkness like a knife. I'm not an electrician I just want a plug and play head light that's bright and doesn't draw to many amps. I was thinking about the Piaa lights from custom dynamics does any one have them and like them what one do you have? Part number if you have it also..

 

the HIDs sold by http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/ are ridiculously Plug n Play simple to install.. they'll cut through the night and make your hgihway lamps useless.. but you can replace those with LED 4.5" lamps..

 

Go HID, you'll be impressed, and they ain't expensive!

[elmicko]

the HIDs sold by http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/ are ridiculously Plug n Play simple to install.. they'll cut through the night and make your hgihway lamps useless.. but you can replace those with LED 4.5" lamps..

 

Go HID, you'll be impressed, and they ain't expensive!

 

So which one do you buy? And is it really "plug and play"? I don't want to mess with having to wire a second switch.

[ragtop69gs]

[Seaking]

So which one do you buy? And is it really "plug and play"? I don't want to mess with having to wire a second switch.

 

The "hardest" part of the whole installation is taking off the front fairing and running a power cable and ground cable back to the battery.. You pull out the H4 bulb and install the HID bulb in place, all the connectors are idiot proof (they can only go one way).. you stuff the components aside and mount the ballast, the silver square looking thingy, somewhere where the heat won't affect anything..

 

Your regular light switch for high and low beam work as per norm... The only caution about the whole thing is that you should not flick hi to low to hi quickly on this system. The reason why it's so efficient and cost effective is that it's a single bulb double action set up. When you hit hi lo switch, an actuator moves the HID bulb in or out for hi and low beam.. if you flick the switch too fast too often you can damage or weaken the actuator. They just recommend you don't go crack crazy with that switch is all.. nothing to worry about.

 

Everything else is just plain simple.. SO simple.. and reliable. Seriously..

[Flyinfool]

Since you need to run the power wire back to the battery anyhow it is not hard to add in a switch to turn the light on after the engine is started.

 

If you do not add the switch, what can happen is that as soon as you turn on the ignition switch, the light turns on. Then when you hit the starter, iv the system voltage drops below 9V the HID safety circuit will shut off the HID due to low voltage. Once the protection circuit shuts it off you have to cycle power to reset it. It is not real uncommon to hit the low voltage cutoff during starting which would mean that you would have to shut off the engine and restart and hope the voltage holds this time.

 

This is NOT a problem with the HID systems, it is them working as designed. Low voltage would damage the internal electronics. They are just protecting themselves.

 

Besides, having a switch to kill the headlight does come in handy when working on the bike.

[Guest scarylarry]

So which one do you buy? And is it really "plug and play"? I don't want to mess with having to wire a second switch.

 

:sign yeah that:

[AlbertaClipper]

Seaking, Where did you find the 4.5" LED driving lights?

[Red Rider]

I don't really want to wire any thing, just replace the light. Like I said I'm not an electrician and with my luck I'd mess something up.

[Mike G in SC]

Back to the PIAA question.

I've had several of the Silver Star H4 headlights, nice while the bright lasts. But that's for about 50 hours. The PIAA seems to last like a normal bulb.

And yes, it is much brighter than stock, but maybe not as intense as a HID.

It appears white (not blue). And it is the white one, between to my yellow passing lamps!

 

I buy the 2 pack from Amazon, $44/pr. Carry a spare.

Amazon link:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-10904-H4-Intense-White/dp/B000MG40QW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1303294083&sr=8-4]Amazon.com: PIAA 10904 H4 Intense White - H4 60/55W=135/125W Xtra Intense White Bulb, Twin Pack: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31E5YHnwdIL.@@AMEPARAM@@31E5YHnwdIL[/ame]

 

And, yeah, who found LED replacement passing lamps,,, lately?

What, where? (The marine lamps got pulled last year.)

 

Thanks, Mike G in SC

[Flyinfool]

I don't really want to wire any thing, just replace the light. Like I said I'm not an electrician and with my luck I'd mess something up.

 

This sounds like it would be a great MD job. Quick and easy with a good smile factor. At most any MD there will be someone that can help you thru it.

[Seaking]

LOL.. geesus, it's ONE wire to run to battery, it's to power the ballast.. everything else is SIMPLE to install folks..

 

You unplug the H4 plug like you would anyway to install a PIAA light bulb... plug THAT into the HID H4 connector, and then plug in the other HID components..

 

To make it ANY simpler than that would be having to send someone to do it for you..

 

But if you can't read simple instructions or are deathly afraid of electrical work, then yeah maybe this isn't for you..

 

but ITS THAT SIMPLE.. lol.. I'm trying to encourage you here,.. If you purchase and replace a new H4 bulb, you're almost 95% done the same work as you would have for the HID.. but with a less brighter light bulb..

[Seaking]

Seaking, Where did you find the 4.5" LED driving lights?

 

I got mine from Custom Dynamics.. They are not cheap but they are VERY well built and put out very little RF interference. I covered mine with metal tape to reduce the effect even more. I don't hear any RF interference at all now. The match the brightness 'white' colour of the HID now. And only take about 6W each from the bike instead of a total 70W..

 

If you think about a typical RSV lighting, 55/65W headlight and two 35W highway lights, that's a max 145watts on the system..

 

With the double action HID and two LED highway lights, you're now looking at only roughly 60watts in all..

 

I'm VERY happy with it.. good lighting all around the bike..

[djh3]

OK I got to ask. Has anyone tried differnet HID conversions than the Canadian customs or whatever it was called. I know over on the vn 900 boards guys were using HID kits from e-bay at around $50-60 but you get 2 kits and guys would split them. Here is one I found on e-bay (only single says for bike) I saw one that said it was a hid kit and showed how to wire it up. You pluged you headlight socket into thiers and it went to the ballest and then from ballest to hid light. I didnt see any power wire from battery mentioned. Heres a "car" kit for $33 Then my next question is color. What color do you go with? the 12000 looks cool but one of the ads says best light is 4300 and they aslo suggested 6000 and 8000.

[twigg]

I got mine from HID Country, and have been very happy with it.

 

There are things that need emphasising ....

 

When you convert to HID you NEED a separate Headlight ON/OFF switch, as Jeff and others said. Without it you are going to find yourself without lights from time to time when you start the engine.

 

Second point .... If you intend using the standard Dip/High Beam switch (and why wouldn't you?), you have to remove the Reserve Lighting Unit. It sucks anyway, and is best gone. If you do not do this the Unit will think that your High Beam has failed and will send voltage to the low. That will bugger up the actuator in the bulb in short time. Oh, and the beam will not move correctly either.

 

Feed the new unit through a relay, and have the relay actuated via a switch ... Job done.

 

Next ... Do not be tempted by high "k" value bulbs. The higher (bluer) the light, the less light is actually reaching the road, however cool it looks. Stick with 4300 to 5000k temps. They are the closest to the stock light spectrum, and they are also the least likely to attract the attention of passing Police Cruisers, the contents of which may want a "chat" about the legality of your handiwork.

 

If you can afford it ..... Projectors, built into the existing housing are the best of all. They are either expensive, or require you to fabricate stuff.

 

This is a well worthwhile project but it's not for anyone unhappy about fitting a relay. It would be a great MD project.

 

The results on my VR were spectacular, and still not good enough to spot many hazards. For that even more light is needed, and a pair of HID Driving Lamps is in my bike's future.

 

If you want a hefty increase on stock without the electrical work, then the suggestion of the Silverstar Ultra was an excellent idea.

 

ps ... Missed a point:)

 

The Computer will think that your headlight has failed and will have a permenant, annoying warning. This can be overcome by jumpering the coil inside the CMU ... instructions are available on this site. This does mean that you will not have a headlight failure warning, but if it's dark you are likely to know that anyway

Edited January 21, 2012 by twigg

[Squidley]

Fritz,

 

I just put a PIAA H4 Xtreme White Plus Anti-Vibration bulb in my '86 and the difference was big. The part # is 70456 for the single bulb, I bought a 2 pack off Amazon as one of the Houston members wanted one for his bike also. If you are going to go with an HID, dont buy the budget one, like the Canadian Cruiser Customizing. I know several members who bought this and have had plenty of issues with it. It does light up the road pretty well, but there were and are lots of failures with the ballasts and like mentioned it should be put on a switch as starting the bike will make the bulb go out and you have to turn off the bike and restart it again. The PIAA is the easiest and simplest way to get more light....

[Guest Slab_Ryder]

Well that answers the question for me, as to why it intermittently goes off, after starting

[jfoster]

I just installed some LED turn signals/running rights from custom dynamics. Now I've got a yellow looking head light. I'm looking for a head light that'll cut the darkness like a knife. I'm not an electrician I just want a plug and play head light that's bright and doesn't draw to many amps. I was thinking about the Piaa lights from custom dynamics does any one have them and like them what one do you have? Part number if you have it also..

 

If you go with one of the HID kits, there have been posts about defective parts etc. Maybe they purchased ones made in China, who knows?

[RedRider]

If you go with one of the HID kits, there have been posts about defective parts etc. Maybe they purchased ones made in China, who knows?

 

Most of the HID kits are from China. The CCC I installed originally burned out the ballast. After several emails, CCC did the right thing and sent me a new setup. This one I installed with a switch and have had no problems since. It's only been a year or so (about 16k miles), therefore, not really proven. However, the original one burned out in a month or so. I am feeling good that the replacement, with the switch, will last. (I do carry a spare standard light bulb just in case though).

 

RR

[djh3]

I have a question on the HID install. The rubber weather seal that goes on the back of the headlight. How did you get it over the HID bulb? What did you do?

[darthandy]

Since this thread seems to refuse to die anyway, here's another question. Some time back, Dingy had written a "Relays 101" document that showed how to wire a cut out switch so that your headlight would go off when starting the bike and turn back on once the bike was started. Does anyone know if this would solve the HID problem of the light turning off due to low voltage when starting the bike? Would a separate switch still be required? The only problem that I can see is that the light is being switched off then back on fairly quickly and that might be hard on the light, but I don't know enough about HID systems to be sure.

 

Andy

[RedRider]

Yes, that should do it. However, I would still use a separate switch to turn on/off the HID headlight. An illuminated sealed switch is about $10.

 

RR

[Flyinfool]

Since this thread seems to refuse to die anyway, here's another question. Some time back, Dingy had written a "Relays 101" document that showed how to wire a cut out switch so that your headlight would go off when starting the bike and turn back on once the bike was started. Does anyone know if this would solve the HID problem of the light turning off due to low voltage when starting the bike? Would a separate switch still be required? The only problem that I can see is that the light is being switched off then back on fairly quickly and that might be hard on the light, but I don't know enough about HID systems to be sure.

 

Andy

 

What you are describing is exactly how the factory wiring on a 1st gen is.

Turn the key on the bulb lights.

Hit the starter the bulb turns off.

release the start button and the bulb comes back on.

I added a switch so that the ballast would not have to light the HID turn it off and have to light it up again. It is the lighting of the HID bulb that is hard on the ballast, keeping the bulb lit is easy.

 

I had come up with 2 different circuits for the headlight. One was fully automatic and the HID would turn on as soon as the neutral light went off and would then stay on till the engine was shut off. The other one used a relay and a push button switch so that there was a blinking red light to tell you the light is off and once turned on the blinking red light would go out and the headlight would stay on till the engine was shut off. I ended up going with option 2.