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I think that most here use and recommend the EBC HH pads. Maybe somebody else will suggest the cheapest place to buy them. I haven't look for a while. You might want to click on the Jake Wilson banner at the top right of the page. Just refresh the page a few times and it will come up. I haven't looked but their prices are typically real competitive.

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Can look him up on vendor page. I've been in touch with him and he recommends/provides EBC HH sintered (I think) pads.

 

I find these to be the better pads for this big bike. What IS interesting is that we all know the rear inside pad wears out before the outside pad and some people get caught short if they don't check both pads.. I did a lot of riding on this set of HH sintered and this winter pulled the pads to look at them up close.. Compared to how bad the difference is with the normal pads, there was little difference between the HH sintered pads.. wow. I swapped them around anyway but there was little noticeable difference between them.. NICE!

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I find these to be the better pads for this big bike. What IS interesting is that we all know the rear inside pad wears out before the outside pad and some people get caught short if they don't check both pads.. I did a lot of riding on this set of HH sintered and this winter pulled the pads to look at them up close.. Compared to how bad the difference is with the normal pads, there was little difference between the HH sintered pads.. wow. I swapped them around anyway but there was little noticeable difference between them.. NICE!

 

I'm not sure what causes this but I checked my back brakes the other day and found that the pads are wearing evenly. Guess I'm pretty lucky.

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I'm not sure what causes this but I checked my back brakes the other day and found that the pads are wearing evenly. Guess I'm pretty lucky.

 

Good stuff! How far down are the pads? The danger is when the pads get much further down in wear and you run the risk of running metal on metal with the inside pad when the outside looks like it has a lot of life on it.. usually past the 3/4 worn out range

 

ya never know, you could also have a good pair of HH Sintered pads on there now..

 

Cheers

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I pulled my rear pads out and inspected them. To me they looked good with 27k miles on them. The inside did have more wear than the outside, which I swapped around. My question is, is the wear indicator the gap in the center of the pad?

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Ok Jerry just because I can't ride with star because they seem to do them on my weekends with the kids doesn't mean I don't ride. I got 17k on the front tire and rear brakes and plan on changing them this weekend.

Does the rear caliper just press back in like some cars or do I have to have a special tool to rachet it back in like other cars? Thanks

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LOL. Unless you have that new Yamaha umbrella farkle, very, very few have been riding lately.

 

Yes you just push them in, but from learning the expensive way, make sure you clean those caliper pistons really well before you push them in. If dirt gets behind those seals, you will either be replacing or rebuilding those calipers.

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  • 1 year later...

I just installed a set of rear brake pads from Earl well about 4000 miles ago. Earl sent me a set EBC Kevlar pads great stopping power without the grabbing and lock up I had with the stock pads. Not sure on longevity yet but seems like there is more brake dust. But after a couple of panic stops the rear has yet to lock up.

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Don't forget to replace your brake fluid when changing pads. As stated earlier, Clean the pistons before pushing them back in. A good trick is once the caliper is off the rotor, CAREFULLY apply some brake pedal to push the piston out just enough to see a clean spot. Then clean off the dirty part and push back in. Be sure your reservoir isn't over full or pushing the pistons back in will cause the fluid to run out the top of the reservoir. This only happens if you added brake fluid some point before the pad change. Since I change brake fluid at pad changes (or every two years), I remove the old fluid from the reservoir before pushing the pistons back in. Remove the rest of the old fluid after the pistons are pushed back in. Install pads and caliper. Fill with fresh fluid and keeping bleeding until it comes out clean.

 

With respect to uneven wear, I just noticed when removing the rear wheel, the hole for front nut for the caliper bracket, where the caliper bracket is bolted to swing arm is slotted. I'm thinking after changing pads and installing the caliper it would be a good idea to loosen this nut, spin the wheel and hit the brakes several times to center the bracket/caliper on the rotor and retorque the nut. Probably should do this when ever you change tires too.

 

RSTDdog

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Guest scarylarry

With respect to uneven wear, I just noticed when removing the rear wheel, the hole for front nut for the caliper bracket, where the caliper bracket is bolted to swing arm is slotted. I'm thinking after changing pads and installing the caliper it would be a good idea to loosen this nut, spin the wheel and hit the brakes several times to center the bracket/caliper on the rotor and retorque the nut. Probably should do this when ever you change tires too.

 

If you add a washer in the rear bolt of the caliber "outside" this will shim it and the rear brakes will wear even...

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