Handling Question

[Reddog170]

Well I have an odd problem. At speeds over 50 or so the bike seem to have a wiggle in the rear. It is not a lot but kinda acts like a flat rear tire. I have checked air pressure and everything I can think of. It is like I am wiggling the bars. It did not do it so bad that I could not handle it but I do not like it. Any ideas? Thank You, Shaun

[Venturous Randy]

What tires are you running and at what air pressure? Many of us that ran the Avons had the tail wag, but it was usually at 65 and up. Going to the E-3 solved my tail wag problem.

RandyA

[Reddog170]

Dunlop rear, 40psi Centenial front, 45psi. Had to put a different front tire on as the dunlop would not hold air.

[twigg]

Well I have an odd problem. At speeds over 50 or so the bike seem to have a wiggle in the rear. It is not a lot but kinda acts like a flat rear tire. I have checked air pressure and everything I can think of. It is like I am wiggling the bars. It did not do it so bad that I could not handle it but I do not like it. Any ideas? Thank You, Shaun

 

Tyres and pressures, any add-ons or accessories that may be recently added ....

 

Other than that you are looking at bearings. Wheel bearings, swing arm or steering head.

 

They are about the only things that can cause a symptom like that.

 

Oh ... a broken frame could do it too ... say if a weld had failed.

[BOO]

Some of the first gens would develop a wiggle in the rear end and was caused by the rear swing arm. The early models did not have a zerk fitting and didn't get greased. The feel of the bike was more of a snake kind of thing though. Wasn't dangerous but did feel different.

BOO

[Marcarl]

I had that problem as well,,, I think,,,,, but I would describe it as a squiggle. For me the bike squiggled but the handle bars were ok. It happened when I put on a new set of Avons, so I switched to E3s but still had the same issue. It only happened when I rode solo, but was fine when I was 2up.

Took my whole front end apart and put it back together in proper sequence,,,, seemed to solve it. This year I'll find out for sure when I put the Avons back on again,,,, yep I still have them.

[Reddog170]

Well I will get into looking at bearings and greasing everything I can. I have a friend that has one of Dingy's wrenches so I will get him to help tighten the steering up a bit. Will also pull the rear wheel today so I can really get into things. I would rather get into it all and find nothing wrong then just figure it is the way this bike is and not do anything just to find out it is something to worry about. Shaun

[bongobobny]

You have an '83, carefully inspect the frame where the shockmounts, that is where the cracks develop. This issue was corrected the next year. Do a search on the issue on this site for more exact information...

[Reddog170]

You have an '83, carefully inspect the frame where the shockmounts, that is where the cracks develop. This issue was corrected the next year. Do a search on the issue on this site for more exact information...

Will do. Thank You

[OutKast]

Tire condition? Are the tires old? Did the bike sit for years in one spot with this tire?

 

Jack it up or put on centerstand. Can you move the swingarm left to right?

[Reddog170]

The tires are almost new, the rear still has the stringy nubs and part of the sticker. The problem, sat for 2 1/2 years with both tires flat. Also it does not wiggle, waggle or squiggle or whatever you want to call it under acel or decel only when at speed.

[Reddog170]

No swing arm movement, side to side. Todays project, rebuild the forks. New seals, hopefully can free up enough cash for progressive springs but have a new set of stock springs for now, will change out the fork oil as well. Yep I am going to make a mess, LOL. Shaun

[Marcarl]

Good luck,,, it's going to be interesting.

When I did mine, the whole front end came apart, including the steering head. Just tightening the head may not be the answer, the bearings might have a worn spot in them, so I suggest to replace them. They can be bought at your local bearing store much cheaper than from your dealer. I mean, if you have the forks down anyways, it's only a little more to do the head bearings and then you won't ever have to go there again, and you'll know that the issue isn't in the steering head.

[Condor]

Check the rear tire for out of round, and sidewall run out. Check the rim for run out too. An out of balance tire will also cause a wiggle at certain high speeds. IF the tire is balanced, how much weight was added? Anything over a couple of .oz's is too much.

[Reddog170]

Check the rear tire for out of round, and sidewall run out. Check the rim for run out too. An out of balance tire will also cause a wiggle at certain high speeds. IF the tire is balanced, how much weight was added? Anything over a couple of .oz's is too much.

Will check that out when I have it off. Shaun

[frankd]

Shaun

 

1) When you rebuild the forks, make sure the bushings aren't worn out. I usually replace both the upper and lower bushings. It used to be that the Yamaha parts fische only gave the part number for one of them (I don't remember if it's the upper or lower). If you have any trouble finding the P/N for the other, I've got it written in my 83 manual. The manual is packed away, but I'll dig it out if you need the number.

 

2) My original 83 frame did suffer the cracking of the bracket that the rear suspension link and the center stand attach to the frame. On the morning before it let go, on the way to work it felt like I had a marshmellow between me and the rear tire. About 30 miles later, the frame broke. I installed an 84 frame (the area that cracked was much heavier on 84's and later) and my wife told me on her first ride that it felt a lot better than it ever did. I guess there was some flexing I never noticed in the original frame. I bought the bike new, and had about 90Kmiles on it when it broke. I'd tell you to check the frame, but the truth is that I greased the rear suspension bushings and checked the frame for cracks a week before it happened. After the frame failed, when I took it apart I checked the rear suspension linkage, and everything was free as a bird.

 

Frank

[bongobobny]

Yah! 2 things. Find the cash for progressive springs AND new bushings!! No sense doing things twice. Second, find the cash to replace your bearings in the steering head, both lower and upper, and do not reuse the races! The grease is probably petrified at this point, and the races will most likely have hard spots on them from setting.

 

You may want to consider one of Condor's heavy duty fork braces for the finishing touch...

[twigg]

No swing arm movement, side to side. Todays project, rebuild the forks. New seals, hopefully can free up enough cash for progressive springs but have a new set of stock springs for now, will change out the fork oil as well. Yep I am going to make a mess, LOL. Shaun

 

Release ALL the air pressure, if you have CLASS, unless you want a mouthful of old fork oil.

 

Don't ask me how I know this

[Rocket]

Shaun

 

It used to be that the Yamaha parts fische only gave the part number for one of them (I don't remember if it's the upper or lower). If you have any trouble finding the P/N for the other, I've got it written in my 83 manual. The manual is packed away, but I'll dig it out if you need the number.

 

Frank

 

On the earlier Ventures, the bushing for the upper fork tube, was only shown as part of the tube. Look up a later year (like a mk2), as it is the same bushings for all 1st gens.

[Rocket]

Release ALL the air pressure, if you have CLASS, unless you want a mouthful of old fork oil.

 

Don't ask me how I know this

 

If you're changing the fork oil too, I just pull a drain screw, with a bucket ready to catch the stream & then drain the other side as well, before pulling the caps.

 

Remember to support the front of the frame (so wheel is off the ground), before pulling the caps.........

[Reddog170]

Here is an interesting note. I got about a dribble out of one side and almost a pint out of the other side. Not sure how big a difference it will make not having the same amount of fluid in both sides will be but it cant be good. I did let all the air out by loosening the air fitting at the compressor, used a jack stand to hold the front off the ground. I expect that I will notice a big change in how she rides after this. Shaun

[BOO]

Bet you will.

BOO

[Marcarl]

Here is an interesting note. I got about a dribble out of one side and almost a pint out of the other side. Not sure how big a difference it will make not having the same amount of fluid in both sides will be but it cant be good. I did let all the air out by loosening the air fitting at the compressor, used a jack stand to hold the front off the ground. I expect that I will notice a big change in how she rides after this. Shaun

You might find a bit more oil if you leave off the drain screw, and then pump a little air into it.

[Reddog170]

I did that thinking it was just clogged or something. It is completely empty. I even have the lower for tubes off now and there is no more oil to be found in them. I also found a damaged dust cap. The caps at the top of the tubes, are they suposed to be just hand tight? Mine unscrewed real easy. Looks like they have been apart before (tool marks in a couple places). I think I am supposed to have 13.5 ounces of oil in each tube. At least I hope so because I have that much oil to put back in. Shaun

[BuckShot]

Dunlop rear, 40psi Centenial front, 45psi. Had to put a different front tire on as the dunlop would not hold air.

 

Never heard of anyone having more air in front tire. I used to run 42 psi in rear dunlop and 38-40 in front dunlop. Gil