Time to rip and tear

[lonestarmedic]

Well, couldn't find a specific drain on the electrical system. Ordered a new fuseblock and will start there. Grounds look good and clean. Stator will get checked next. Haven't ruled out the possiblity of a "bad" new battery. Also replacing the stock main fuse with one of the new style maxi-fuses. I plan on extending the stock wires in order to mount the block on the air filter housing. I will probably make new battery cables at the same time. Next will be pulling the starter and cleaning the dust out and checking the armature and brushes.

 

Results from draw test: Key off, between batt. and ground 0.8mA

Key off, between batt. and positive 0.8mA

Pulled the b.up 5 amp fuse and dropped 0.4mA

In acc pos. draw was 187mA

I have one fuse to chase yet. It is 20 amp in a rubber holder forward of the battery. Has about an 8ga. wire feeding a 12ga. wire. Both are red and it is configured in a loop.

 

Final jobs before puting the plastic on: Plugs, wires, plug caps, and valve cover gaskets and grommets. Glad I enjoy tinkering with stuff. Weather is a bit chilly at 45 and raining, so I hope to be done in a couple weeks.

 

Had a good experience with Kent Powersports here in San Antonio. They gave me 20% off on parts and ordered all the items not in stock today. They also offered to work prices on other items and parts. Very pleasant to work with. So, I will get most of my stuff local. Except for the plugs, caps and wires. I will order those elsewhere. Kent only offered Yamaha parts here.

 

J.B.

[hipshot]

plug caps, and wires, should be available at ANY auto parts store.

check with "bato zone"!

just jt

[muffinman]

[quote=lonestarmedic;1

I have one fuse to chase yet. It is 20 amp in a rubber holder forward of the battery. Has about an 8ga. wire feeding a 12ga. wire. Both are red and it is configured in a loop.

 

J.B.

JB I believe that the fuse in question goes to the radiator fan.I may be wrong but I think that is what I found out when I first got my 83.

Jeff

[86er]

Rick at Buckeye Performance is good for the plugs and wires.

That's where I got mine.

 

[Squeeze]

...

Results from draw test: Key off, between batt. and ground 0.8mA

Key off, between batt. and positive 0.8mA

Pulled the b.up 5 amp fuse and dropped 0.4mA

...

 

Well, this is next to nothing.

 

Did you try to start the Beast after the Tests ?

What where the Voltage Readings ?

Did it fire up ?

[lonestarmedic]

Hey Squeeze

I didn't get a chance to check the voltage before trying to turn it over. I had put her on a trickle charger early that morning, and went to start it about 8 hours later. The trickle was showing charged but no start and slow turn over. I got my larger charger and ran it for a while then started it. So far, after charging the battery and then removing it from the bike to start repairs the battery is at 12.5 after sitting for the last couple days. After I repair the fuse blocks, I will do a few more tests. Too many variables at the moment. Remember that a loose connection to the gauge cluster occurred last weekend. So, I have loose fuses, a bad connection, and a new battery all at once.

 

J. B.

[vipermax07]

i went throught the same kind of problem you are having. what it ultimately was, was a head light bulb that was deformed and the coils inside the bulb were touching. when this happens the bulb looses resistance and draws more amperage. it was actually draining the battery while running. i had the local dealer also check it out,( i am a mechanic for a volvo truck dealer) they couldnt find anything either. the battery would be dead after driving. look in the bulb and see if the filiment is evanly spaced or it looks cruched together. this cost me alot of money replacing parts including the battery and voltage regulator. if nothing there, check other bulbs. ifnothing is found, make sure you clean the battery cable with a wire wheel on a drill or a surfacing pad in a drill or die grinder, they may look clean but i have found if you dont change the color of the connector it can have a clean film on it that can cause a draw and or poor connection under a load such a starting.

[lonestarmedic]

Hey Vipermax07

Thanks for the hints. The bike is charging ok while running. I am using rol-loc disks and believe it or not, I use CLR to soak off corrosion. I spray or dip the connectors and then rinse with water and dry. Put some dielectric grease on and things are ready for power!! Strange, but the stuff will clean down to bright copper and doesn't hurt the connector bodies. I wouldn't try getting it on paint though. I believe that there are a few of those gremlins in the garage. Anyone got Gremlin-Be-Gone spray?

 

J. B.