Help with starter switch

[Vonwolf]

All of these safety switches I just cant get the starter switch to work, I still start the bike but I have a switch hooked to the starter relay (solenoid) and the + post on the battery. It works but if it doesn't start right away well all those amps going thru a 10 Gage wire the smoke starts puffing and soon there's fire.

I bought a new right hand throttle Assembly from a site member so I'm sure the starter switch is good. All the possable relays and safety switches are mind boggling, kick stand,clutch,neutral switch on and on.

On my riding lawn mower the first thing I do is bypass them. Is there any way to bypass all these switches and just get the starter switch to work or a way to rig a switch up to get the job done. I know the switches are there for safety reasons but as far as I'm concerned if you don't know your in neutral or the kick stand is up you probably shouldn't be riding the bike any way.

Any help would be greatly appreciated its been a tough few years and the funds are tight so I really need a cheap quick fix if there is one.

Thanks Pete

[bongobobny]

OK first, I am NOT a fan of defeating safety circuits but here goes. First, the kickstand switch. Jumper all three lines together and you are good to go, but word of warning, it will now start in gear!!! Always check for neutral!!!

 

Next, clutch switch. Jumper together. See warning above and double the danger!!

 

Third, kill switch. Jumper together, the only downside to this is you loose a quick kill for the engine other than turning the key off. Not much of a safety hazzard here...

 

Tipover relay. These seldom fail, but you can jumper the wires together but if you drop it it will keep running!! Not a good idea to have a bike running in gear while it is on it's side!!!

 

OK if you are still determined to operate a dangerous motorcycle, here's what to do. On the starting circuit relay, tie the two R/W wires together and throw away the relay, it now is extra weight. Connect the 2 R/W wires together on the kill switch and you are good to go, but it will now energise the starter motor in any gear, clutch in or out, and all it takes is to have the bike move when you hit the start switch just once and down you go or worse!!! The bike will not run,though, at this point. You do not have to jumper the sidestand switch or clutch for this mod, or the following one.

 

Now for the TCI kill circuit. Another easy mod and relay toss. The only way you get spark is for the sidestand to be down, or in neutral with the clutch disengaged, just like the starter motor relay. Same procedure as the starting circuit relay, jumper the R/W wires and toss the relay. Now you are really dangerous, because now it will start and run in any gear, clutch in or out.

 

The last mod to make it entirely unsafe is to jumper together the wires on the emergency kill switch AKA tipover switch. Now when you drop it the motorcycle will go around in circles on the ground whether or not you are still attached to the motorcycle...

[twigg]

I'll help you all I can to set it up correctly.

 

But I will not help you defeat all the safety switches.

 

You have a fault on the bike, possibly more than one, and using logic, and a decent multimeter you can easily trace and fix it.

 

The Service Manual is available free, and it has flowcharts for every switch.

[mspookw]

I have an '86VR' that the stater switch wouldn't activate the starter and I had to jump. Turned out to be the diode in the starter circuit had gone bad. Replaced that and it fixed the problem without eliminating any of the safety features.

[Reddog170]

Had the same problem on my wing. Turned out to be the starter solenoid. Shaun

[mspookw]

Does your wing have a diode in the starting circuit? I think it is a Yamaha thing. It's a little flat rectangle about the size and color of a piece of chocolate candy. There are schematics of the starting circuit on this forum.

[Reddog170]

Nope it sure dont. But it was a pain to figure out. If I put power strait to it it worked fine. If I used the button it would not work at all. Just happened to find out what it was when I had a second one and just tried it for giggles. Shaun

[Condor]

Sounds like to much resistance in the starting circut. Only place that can happen is the ground connection, or the brushes in the starter. Pull it and clean the contact on the frame. If that doesn't get it then I'd pull the starter and rebuild.

[mspookw]

I'd test the diode before i'd start tearing things apart. Check page 7-17 in service manual. There is a quick test to check the diode.If you pull the clutch lever and the start button works then the diode is probably bad. The clutch switch bypasses the start diode.

Edited April 15, 2011 by mspookw

[Vonwolf]

I'd test the diode before i'd start tearing things apart. Check page 7-17 in service manual. There is a quick test to check the diode.If you pull the clutch lever and the start button works then the diode is probably bad. The clutch switch bypasses the start diode.

 

 

I'll look for the diode I'm not sure where its at but I will look on page 7 and see if I can figure it out, I've had this problem for ever I've checked every circuit in the manual I just cant get it. Its very frustrating I can start the bike by jumping the solenoid but thats not very dependable so the bike is kind of useless to me. I guess I'm not that good on trouble shooting this electronics on this monster.

[bongobobny]

The diode pack is behind/underneath the headlight on the right side. It is a plug in black box about 1 inch by 1 inch by 1/4 inch. If you can get someone to lend you one that would be a lot cheaper than going out and buying one only to find out it wasn't bad...

[Vonwolf]

@bongobobny

Your right and I don't want to be totally reckless. By jumping the solenoid with the kick stand down and in neutral it will start and run so I think that rules out any device that kills the ignition as a problem.

The problem reared its ugly head when I cranked on the starter switch apparently too long because it stooped working. I replaced the solenoid (the manual calls it the starter relay) that didn't help, replaced the whole throttle assm. it was faded so I'm sure the started switch is good. I then went down the line on the trouble shooting the starter circuit with no luck

This might explain my desperation and lack of concern for some of the safety features hopefully I'll get it this time around.

Pete

[Vonwolf]

The diode pack is behind/underneath the headlight on the right side. It is a plug in black box about 1 inch by 1 inch by 1/4 inch. If you can get someone to lend you one that would be a lot cheaper than going out and buying one only to find out it wasn't bad...

 

 

Thanks

I'll check that out maybe get a used one off fleabay

Pete

[mspookw]

If you pull the clutch will the starter button work? You can check the diode with a continuity tester. The test procedure is on page 7-17

[dingy]

Here is a PDF file showing the starting circuit only.

 

Shown in 3 configurations.

 

Gary

[Vonwolf]

If you pull the clutch will the starter button work? You can check the diode with a continuity tester. The test procedure is on page 7-17

 

Nope the starter switch dose not work at all,clutch in, neutral kick stand up nothing. I'll check the continuity of the diode although I'm pretty sure I already did, can't hurt to be sure

Thanks Pete

[Vonwolf]

One thing it seems to me that if you grounded the blue/white wire at the starter solenoid and energized the other small terminal would that not activate the starter? I haven't tried that yet but should that not work?

I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

Pete