frmarksiegelhotmail.com Posted April 10, 2011 Share #1 Posted April 10, 2011 Ok, another question from a potential new member. This one is about a trunk rack for my 2007 RSV. I would like to get one for an upcoming trip, but since times are rough and money is an issue, which one would you recommend? I'm also a tad nervous about the installation, as drilling into my trunk lid sounds like something that I could screw up in a hurry. Your thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted April 10, 2011 Share #2 Posted April 10, 2011 I personally only recommend the factory Yamaha rack. I think it looks best, but more importantly, the long plates that fit between the front and back mounting points are important for structural integrity of the trunk lid. You will find plenty of people who are happy with the Goldwing rack and have used it without cracking, but you can also find owners who wish they had never tried it. If you cannot find the stock Yamaha rack now, or just want to go with something else, make sure you use large fender washers BOTH inside and outside the lid at each hole to reduce the stress and chance of cracking (and they need to be slightly dished to match the contour of the trunk lid - if they are just flat, they will increases the stress). Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirby Posted April 10, 2011 Share #3 Posted April 10, 2011 :sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarFan Posted April 10, 2011 Share #4 Posted April 10, 2011 make sure you use large fender washers BOTH inside and outside the lid at each hole to reduce the stress and chance of cracking (and they need to be slightly dished to match the contour of the trunk lid - if they are just flat, they will increases the stress). Goose An alterniative is to put softer type rubber washers under the fender washers if you don´t find dished ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted April 10, 2011 Share #5 Posted April 10, 2011 On the price issue. The only thing I can suggest is watch the classifieds on this board or get real friendly with Ebay.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frmarksiegelhotmail.com Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share #6 Posted April 10, 2011 I personally only recommend the factory Yamaha rack. I think it looks best, but more importantly, the long plates that fit between the front and back mounting points are important for structural integrity of the trunk lid. You will find plenty of people who are happy with the Goldwing rack and have used it without cracking, but you can also find owners who wish they had never tried it. If you cannot find the stock Yamaha rack now, or just want to go with something else, make sure you use large fender washers BOTH inside and outside the lid at each hole to reduce the stress and chance of cracking (and they need to be slightly dished to match the contour of the trunk lid - if they are just flat, they will increases the stress). Goose As you might have guessed by my questions, I am not what you would call handy with tools, so I still have questions about installing this myself. What are "fender washers" and what is a "dished" fender washer? And how hard is it to measure the holes that have to be drilled - I would hate to mess that up? Also, I saw a trunk rack at JC Whitney that fits my price range and was wondering if anyone has that one on their bike? Thanks for your patience! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted April 10, 2011 Share #7 Posted April 10, 2011 I've seen several reports here about people installing the JC Whitney racks and I've also seen several reports where they started rushing really quickly. I wouldn't recommend it. Remember, once you drill the holes for that JC Whitney rack and then it is rusty a year later and you decide you want to install the Yamaha rack, those existing holes are going to be in the wrong place. I understand anybody wanting to save some money but I personally would hold off and not install one at all until I had the funds to install a good one. This is one item that I think it is better to do without than to go cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kregerdoodle Posted April 10, 2011 Share #8 Posted April 10, 2011 Don is right on the spot with this, I bought a rack from Wingstuff, it is now a pile of rust, and I keep the bike inside. I saved some dollars by getting it from them, but it will cost me $100.00 to have it rechromed...save for the Yamaha Rack and get a good one first time around. K I've seen several reports here about people installing the JC Whitney racks and I've also seen several reports where they started rushing really quickly. I wouldn't recommend it. Remember, once you drill the holes for that JC Whitney rack and then it is rusty a year later and you decide you want to install the Yamaha rack, those existing holes are going to be in the wrong place. I understand anybody wanting to save some money but I personally would hold off and not install one at all until I had the funds to install a good one. This is one item that I think it is better to do without than to go cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary N. Posted April 10, 2011 Share #9 Posted April 10, 2011 I've installed a few Yamaha luggage racks and it's a relatively simple job. I like to use a tailors measuring tape to locate it squarely on the trunk lid. Also use masking tape to protect the paint and make your marks for drilling. Make the final hole size just a little bigger than the bolts so you have a little fudge room and don't forget to chamfer the holes on both sides to help prevent cracking. Use a very small drill bit (1/16") to start a pilot hole in the center of your mark and then work up to your final hole size. Put a little blue loctite on the bolts and don't over torque them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaThumper Posted April 10, 2011 Share #10 Posted April 10, 2011 I've installed a few Yamaha luggage racks and it's a relatively simple job. I like to use a tailors measuring tape to locate it squarely on the trunk lid. Also use masking tape to protect the paint and make your marks for drilling. Make the final hole size just a little bigger than the bolts so you have a little fudge room and don't forget to chamfer the holes on both sides to help prevent cracking. Use a very small drill bit (1/16") to start a pilot hole in the center of your mark and then work up to your final hole size. Put a little blue loctite on the bolts and don't over torque them. Hi Gary, Thanks for the tip about chamfering the holes. Would you explain exactly what you mean? I've got a rack to install and want to be sure I do it right! Is that live beveling the edges of the holes, or is there a special tool? Thanks! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted April 10, 2011 Share #11 Posted April 10, 2011 I've installed a few Yamaha luggage racks and it's a relatively simple job. I like to use a tailors measuring tape to locate it squarely on the trunk lid. Also use masking tape to protect the paint and make your marks for drilling. Make the final hole size just a little bigger than the bolts so you have a little fudge room and don't forget to chamfer the holes on both sides to help prevent cracking. Use a very small drill bit (1/16") to start a pilot hole in the center of your mark and then work up to your final hole size. Put a little blue loctite on the bolts and don't over torque them. No no no! NEVER use Loctite near ABS plastic. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zooer Posted April 10, 2011 Share #12 Posted April 10, 2011 Here is a link for you. Just use the rubber washers along with the fender type washers. Some people run a strap in the inside of the lid also between the front and rear bolts. Quite simple task. Masking tape and set it in place, mark with felt tip, drill in middle and make sure you check the placement after every hole is drilled, as in One at a time! http://www.goldwingcountry.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=0&Category_ID=0&manufacturer_ID=66&product_ID=5761&sblid_name=Show_Chrome_Accessories__Big_Bike_Parts__Luggage_Rack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zooer Posted April 10, 2011 Share #13 Posted April 10, 2011 cham·fer (chhttp://img.tfd.com/hm/GIF/abreve.gifmhttp://img.tfd.com/hm/GIF/prime.giffhttp://img.tfd.com/hm/GIF/schwa.gifr) tr.v. cham·fered, cham·fer·ing, cham·fers 1. To cut off the edge or corner of; bevel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary N. Posted April 11, 2011 Share #14 Posted April 11, 2011 Hi Gary, Thanks for the tip about chamfering the holes. Would you explain exactly what you mean? I've got a rack to install and want to be sure I do it right! Is that live beveling the edges of the holes, or is there a special tool? Thanks! James Well there is a special tool but all you need to do is take a larger diameter drill bit (about 5/16 or 3/8) and just turn it in the hole by hand to take the edge off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary N. Posted April 11, 2011 Share #15 Posted April 11, 2011 No no no! NEVER use Loctite near ABS plastic. Goose Ya, don't get any loctite on your ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaking Posted April 11, 2011 Share #16 Posted April 11, 2011 Ya, don't get any loctite on your ABS. What happens if you get loctite on your ABS ?? We have to use blue loctite on some hardware but what happens ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted April 11, 2011 Share #17 Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) The acronym ABS is the key word here. No loctite. It melts ABS! No excessive weight on (4) points, better to have it spread out over (2) 7 x 1 inch areas. So, I'd stick with the Yamaha rack. Even then I'd watch how much weight you put on it as that trunk and lid is expensive... believe me you do not want to have to replace it... Edited April 11, 2011 by CaptainJoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted April 11, 2011 Share #18 Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) Loctite Threadlockers and many plastics lead to very sad owners. With ABS plastics it slowly disintegrates the plastic which begins to crack, then crumble. Never EVER apply Loctite directly to plastic, and I strongly recommend you NEVER use it on any fastener that even passes through plastic and into a metal part. It is just not worth the potential grief. We report this information in various threads here every year, but inevitably we see sad stories from some people who just do not get the message. Goose Edited April 11, 2011 by V7Goose spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ediddy Posted April 11, 2011 Share #19 Posted April 11, 2011 I bought the jc whitney rack when I bought my bike in 2005. I like the rack and haven't had any problems except it does rust around the joints where it was welded. I may have it rechromed someday. If I had it to do over again I would get the yamaha rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary N. Posted April 11, 2011 Share #20 Posted April 11, 2011 Even then I'd watch how much weight you put on it as that trunk and lid is expensive... believe me you do not want to have to replace it... On my Alaska trip I carried a bag on the luggage rack that weighed a good 20+ lbs. with no issues. And believe me when I tell you that the roads up there are rough and if there was ever going to be a problem it would have happened on that trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted April 11, 2011 Share #21 Posted April 11, 2011 Don't know for a fact but I think its rated for 10 lbs..."using a Yamaha rack" I have heard of people putting +25 on it... although I don't have much success with plastic and cold weather... so I'm not going to push the limits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamico Posted April 22, 2011 Share #22 Posted April 22, 2011 I've got the Yamaha rack and really like it. Holding up well, no rust, bike is a 2007. If you go that route, Bestem makes a bag for it that fits very well (the were the OEM provider for the Yamaha offering). Plus, they're 1/2 the price of the Yamaha branded bag. Well worth the $ IMO, so that you're not playing around with bungy cords and a duffle bag. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted April 22, 2011 Share #23 Posted April 22, 2011 Hi Gary, Thanks for the tip about chamfering the holes. Would you explain exactly what you mean? I've got a rack to install and want to be sure I do it right! Is that live beveling the edges of the holes, or is there a special tool? Thanks! James lol .... Don't use loctite Nyloc nuts are good though. Yes there is a special tool for chamfering the holes ... It is called a drill bit .... Use one a few sizes bigger than the hole and just touch the hole you drilled ... It will angle the edges. You can buy chamfering bits, but for plastic they are overkill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venture101 Posted April 23, 2011 Share #24 Posted April 23, 2011 Locktite is like Brillcream--A little dab'll do ya. But I agree, DO NOT get any on the plastic. Better off using Nyloc nuts and then putting a rubber cap over the nuts to keep from scratching or damaging anything in your trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlh3rd Posted April 23, 2011 Share #25 Posted April 23, 2011 i had the jc whitney rack....didn't take too long for it to begin rusting.........so i got the yamaha rack, plus buying a new lid......lesson learned.......but if you go whitney, i did use fender washers and rubber washers from local harware store.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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