Carb Bowl Screw Tighting ?

[GolfVenture]

When screwing in the Carb Bowl screw how far does one tighten. Just when you feel the spring tention, or all the way in until it stops or somewhere inbetween? From the center of the diaphram cover one goes straight down and the screw is in a long tunnel.

[Snaggletooth]

If I'm on track with the right hole, that is an adjustment screw. Gently turn it in until you just feel it seat lightly......do not tighten it!.....and then back it out 2 1/2 turns for a starting point.

 

Now the actual carb bowl drain screw that allows you to drain the bowls is off to the right side of the carb body and sits at an angle. It had a brass screw inside. You can see that clearly. You open that one up and that allows the gas to drain from the black rubber tubes that stick out of the carb rack support bracket. That one you want to snug up a bit after draining the bowls or the drain tube will drip.

 

I can post a pic or two in a bit.

 

Mike

 

Updated: Ok, there is the pic. Arrow on left is the pilot screw. Like I said.. light bottom out then 2 1/2 turns out for close.

 

Arrow on right is the bowl drain screw.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited April 7, 2011 by Snaggletooth

[Yammer Dan]

:sign yeah that:

[skydoc_17]

Hey Brian,

In the pic that Mike (Snaggletooth) posted, the "hole" that is straight down from the Carb. Diaphragm screw is the Idle Mixture Screw. There is a spring and a O'Ring on that screw. The end of the screw opposite the screw head is needle shaped. The end of the needle passes into the main bore of the Carb. If you over tighten this screw, you will damage the Carb. Body, and the only fix is to replace. I always PB Blaster that hole with the Idle Mixture Screw BEFORE I try to move it. Turn this screw Clock wise until it LIGHTLY bottoms. Then back the screw out two and one half turns. (21/2 turns) In the pic, the other screw is the float bowl drain screw. If you retighten that screw, you will shear off

the O'Ring and the black tube for that Carb. will dribble fuel. Dingy sells a really nice set of plastic plugs for the Idle Mixture Screws, check the classifieds, or PM him.

[GolfVenture]

Ok, I got all 4 Idle Mixture Screw back in and backed out 2 1/2 turns.

 

Now for the float bowl drain screw. But before I do it let me tell you what I've encountered.

 

I need some help in getting it my VR started for the 1st time in 2011. I can't imagine there is anything mechanically wrong with it except for the carb. See I bought it in South Lake Tahoe last year and rode it back to Seattle which is about 900 miles around mid Sept. Then knowing that it won't get ridden until late spring of 2011 and I read so much about Seafoam and asked a lot of questions. The recommendation was to put about 8 oz of Seafoam with a full tank of gas. I then rode it over 100 miles then parked it on the center stand. Mid winter I started it up for a warm up. It did start kinda of hard but did start and warm up good. Because it started up kinda of hard I decided to change the plugs for I heard that if the fuel system is dirty that Seafoam could foul the plugs. That is all I did besides putting it on a 2 amp charger all winter. This past week I attempted to start if and it I could tell that it was kind of firing but barely. With each start attempt lots of fuel came out the over flow. And you know the rest of the story.

 

So for the float bowl drain screw, Do I remove it all the way out or unscrew it so many turns. After I have eithor removed the float bowl drain screw all the way out or just so many turns, then what?

 

Is that all I do , or do I activate the fuel pump a few times. Oh. do I undo the float bowl drain screw one at a time then activate the fuel pump.

 

As you can see I could use some tutoring.

[bkuhr]

Ok, I got all 4 Idle Mixture Screw back in and backed out 2 1/2 turns.

 

Now for the float bowl drain screw. But before I do it let me tell you what I've encountered.

 

I need some help in getting it my VR started for the 1st time in 2011. I can't imagine there is anything mechanically wrong with it except for the carb. See I bought it in South Lake Tahoe last year and rode it back to Seattle which is about 900 miles around mid Sept. Then knowing that it won't get ridden until late spring of 2011 and I read so much about Seafoam and asked a lot of questions. The recommendation was to put about 8 oz of Seafoam with a full tank of gas. I then rode it over 100 miles then parked it on the center stand. Mid winter I started it up for a warm up. It did start kinda of hard but did start and warm up good. Because it started up kinda of hard I decided to change the plugs for I heard that if the fuel system is dirty that Seafoam could foul the plugs. That is all I did besides putting it on a 2 amp charger all winter. This past week I attempted to start if and it I could tell that it was kind of firing but barely. With each start attempt lots of fuel came out the over flow. And you know the rest of the story.

 

So for the float bowl drain screw, Do I remove it all the way out or unscrew it so many turns. After I have eithor removed the float bowl drain screw all the way out or just so many turns, then what?

 

Is that all I do , or do I activate the fuel pump a few times. Oh. do I undo the float bowl drain screw one at a time then activate the fuel pump.

 

As you can see I could use some tutoring.

 

open the drain just a turn or so will start fuel draining from bowls, rig up a tube on the drain nipple and catch fuel in glass container for inspection for debris. Your problem seems to be stuck floats due to overflow, and it may be more helpful to rap on each carb with screwdriver handle to try to dislodge any debris in the float needle both before drain, and during drain with pump running.

[MiCarl]

I've got a V-Max here that had a similar problem. Draining the offending carburetor and refilling cleared it up.

 

In the case of the V-Max it had dumped enough fuel into the cylinder to hydro-lock the engine. If it had fired one of the other cylinders it could have led to severe engine damage.

 

I'd pull all the plugs and ground the plug leads first time I cranked it. That way any fuel in the cylinders will be pushed out the plug holes. Put a rag over each plug hole so it doesn't throw gasoline everywhere.

[GolfVenture]

Thanks for the infor about pulling the plugs to push out excess fuel before attempting to start it up.

 

Ok, so I will tap on each carb to hopefully lossen things up.

 

Could someone send me a picture of the various points to tap on. Right now I'm just kind of guessing to tap somewhere behind the diaphram.

[MiCarl]

Ideally you'd tap on the float bowls. They're kind of hard to get to with the carburetors installed though. I'd just rap on the diaphragm covers - it'll vibrate the whole carb.

[GolfVenture]

Hows this for a plan.

 

1) Tap on each carb behind the diaphram in several places.

2) Take my electric back vibrator and use a towel to protect the carb/diaphram and hold the vibrator onto the diaphram and let it vibrate, vibrate, vibrate.

3) Then drain one carb at a time into a glass bowl hoping to see junk. Then turn the key on to activate the fuel pump. Do this a few times. Then move on to the next carb.

4) Pull all the plugs out and put it in gear then turn the rear wheel foward a few times to push excessive fuel/carb cleaner out. Do not use the started to push the fuel out in case of a spark/explosion.

5) Then with the plugs out let it sit over night for evaporation.

6) Next day install the plugs.

7) Hit the starter.

8) Pray and cross my fingers.

 

If any one would like to add to this, please do.

[MiCarl]

Hows this for a plan.

 

1) Tap on each carb behind the diaphram in several places.

2) Take my electric back vibrator and use a towel to protect the carb/diaphram and hold the vibrator onto the diaphram and let it vibrate, vibrate, vibrate.

You should leave the diaphragm covers on, you problem isn't the diaphragm. Back vibrator sounds like a good idea to rattle any stuck floats loose though......

3) Then drain one carb at a time into a glass bowl hoping to see junk. Then turn the key on to activate the fuel pump. Do this a few times. Then move on to the next carb.

4) Pull all the plugs out and put it in gear then turn the rear wheel foward a few times to push excessive fuel/carb cleaner out. Do not use the started to push the fuel out in case of a spark/explosion.

Not a bad idea. Be easier to do in 5th gear.

5) Then with the plugs out let it sit over night for evaporation.

6) Next day install the plugs.

7) Hit the starter.

8) Pray and cross my fingers.

Don't forget the proper application of profanity either!

 

If any one would like to add to this, please do.

[GolfVenture]

Success. I like to thank you all for your suggestions. I've learn a lot from this.

 

I would like to contribute in a tool that I made incase someone here might find it useful. After removing the drain bolt from the back of the carb, I needed a longer tube so I could reach the carb spray into the float bowel area. I got some 18 gage wire in hopes of pulling the copper wire out. Well the wire wouldn't pull out but what did side out was the clear plastic sheeting that goes around color plastic wire. It was tough going at first but I kept working it and soon I had a tube nozzel about a foot long. Now you still needed to use the red spray tube that comes with the carb areosol spray to put into the nozzel opening, for the clear tubing is too weak and flimsey to press into the nozzel head. Then slide the clear tube over the other end of the red nozzel.

 

Also putting the drain bolt back on was another obsticle for the hole is slanted slightly down and there isn't enought room to get the hand/bolt started without dropping the bolt. So I took a 12 inch piece of wire and pealed some of the plastic back exposing some copper strand wires. I wrapped a couple of the stands of wire around the o-ring side of the bolt. Then I was able to lower the wire with the bolt near to the drain hole. With the other hand I was now able to get my finger on the bolt head and pushed the treaded part of the bolt into the hole. Then I pulled on the wire and the wire of course slipped off the thread. Then with the other hand I was able to get around the carb from another angle near the bolt and with fingers from both hands able to thread the bolt into the hole. It does help to have small hands.

 

When I did spray into the float area nothing really came out for I had a clean shop paper towel under the opening to catch the debree. Each time I would test by plugging the drain hole with my finger and then activating the fuel pump with the run switch. Fuel still would come out the overflow. I ended up using the 18 gage wire and poking it into the drain hole into the float bowl area. I gently moved the wire around and soon I could hear the up and down motion of the float. I again did the fuel pump test and soon the fuel pump would no longer activate. After several more attempts with the run switch and no more fuel pump action with no fuel running out the over flow, I declared success.

 

I havn't reassembled yet but I hear that my next obsticle is the breather hose. Will be picking up a 11 inch needle nose plyer, for that is what I hear will make the job easier.

 

Again this is the best group, and from all the new comers I'm seeing the word must be spreading.

 

Thanks Again.