Guest thunderbearr Posted November 22, 2007 #1 Posted November 22, 2007 Hey everyone! I need some help. I got my '86 Yamaha Venture Royale about 18 months ago. It came with nice floorboards and a heel toe shifter. I figured this was standard equipment. About a week ago, I started home from work and to my dismay, I could only shift into first, neutral and second. I babied it along sidestreets and took my time driving 5 miles. Three more stops, I could only get first and neutral to work. To shorten this story, I discovered that the fitting on the left crankcase cover had broken. Reading on here, I discovered that I could get it welded because the casing is aluminum. I then took to working on removing the left crankcase cover. I have read the service manual, the repair manual and all I could find to get help on removing the left crankcase cover. After getting all the bolts off and discovering other things I need to remove, I found that there are two sets of wires that come from the back of the cover and goes to the flywheel assembly connected inside the crankcase cover. Here are my questions. 1. Do I need to removed the copper coils, the 4-5 screws holding everything in to disconnect the two sets of wires? ( I ask this because the philips screws are tight and I really don't want to remove this if possible so I won't have problems later matching to the flywheel. 2. Is there a simpler way to disconnect the two sets of wires without removing the screws and coils? 3. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows how to disconnect this? (The manual says to remove the electrical connectors like it is a simple switch) 4. Finally, is there much danger of warping or causing some damage to the inner electronics if I leave them inside? (I don't think there is, but maybe someone will have a horror story to change my mind!) I appreciate any help given and hope someone is smarter than I am figuring out how to get this off the bike so I can get it welded. Happy Thanksgiving!
PEIslander Posted November 22, 2007 #2 Posted November 22, 2007 Thunderbearr, The wires go to connectors along the frame rail behind the side cover and can be separated there but you may have to remove the middle gear cover as well to get the wires out. Since you're getting the cover welded it may be better to remove the stator but it's not essential as long as it's protected. If you do remove the stator an impact driver is the best way to get the philips screws started but you can use vice-grips in a pinch.( I speak from experience) Good Luck
Guest thunderbearr Posted November 22, 2007 #3 Posted November 22, 2007 I was going the wrong way to remove the wires! This makes sense and so now, I am back out in the lovely temperature to work on it! I am really grateful that you replied quickly as I hoped someone with knowledge would reply. You are great! Lon
Marcarl Posted November 23, 2007 #4 Posted November 23, 2007 Who says he knows anything, he just gave you an answer and you hope it's the truth. Worry none, PEIslander has it right. Don't worry about the stator, leave it in place and put a wet rag around it when you go to weld. Aluminum welding should not produce enough heat to bother it any. Enjoy your efforts and when you go to put the cover back on, be sure that the shifter linkage, in behind the cover, is in the up position, not hanging down as it would like to. The cover will install with it in the down position but you will have fun trying to get it to place right, put it in the up position and all will slide together slickidesmooth. As a bonus you will also be shifting in the right direction when you're done.
Guest thunderbearr Posted November 23, 2007 #5 Posted November 23, 2007 PEI was right! I went out and after struggling with the end of the connectors jamming between the frame and the gas tank, I was able to take the cover off! It is also good to remember the way the linkage goes. So far, both of you have been proven correct! Now, I need to find a good aluminum welder who is working tomorrow! With heaven and weather in my favor, I will be riding this bike as long as possible to save on gas. Terrible how we have put ourselves behind the 8 ball when it comes to oil. Thanks again! Lon
Condor Posted November 23, 2007 #6 Posted November 23, 2007 I wonder if you could use that Alumite Rod and do the welding yourself???
Venturous Randy Posted November 23, 2007 #7 Posted November 23, 2007 Hey thunder, I have heard several speak of having a problem breaking the case and all seemed to be with using the heal-toe shifter, and that is not the way it come from the factory. I think I would consider going back to the stock shifter linkage. RandyA
FreezyRider Posted November 23, 2007 #8 Posted November 23, 2007 I wonder if you could use that Alumite Rod and do the welding yourself??? Just curious.....have you used this product or do you know of anyone who has. It looks really interesting, and if it works as well as they claim it would be awesome. Joe
Freebird Posted November 23, 2007 #9 Posted November 23, 2007 I've got an '83 engine out in the storage building. Do you know if the crankcase off the '83 1200 will work on the '86 1300? If so, I can remove it and send it to you. It will probably need some buffing and etc. though.
Condor Posted November 23, 2007 #10 Posted November 23, 2007 Hey thunder, I have heard several speak of having a problem breaking the case and all seemed to be with using the heal-toe shifter, and that is not the way it come from the factory. I think I would consider going back to the stock shifter linkage. RandyA The '91 I just picked up came with a heel/toe, and I'm thinking about taking it off. Heck, the boards don't look like they'll fit my clod-hoppers anyway. I did check the shifter spline and it looked good, and from the condition of the H/T It might not have been on there very long.
Squeeze Posted November 23, 2007 #11 Posted November 23, 2007 I've got an '83 engine out in the storage building. Do you know if the crankcase off the '83 1200 will work on the '86 1300? If so, I can remove it and send it to you. It will probably need some buffing and etc. though. Me thinks that the '83 Cover would fit on a '86. I'm not 100 Percent sure, but more than 98 Percent.
Guest KitCarson Posted November 23, 2007 #12 Posted November 23, 2007 Just curious.....have you used this product or do you know of anyone who has. It looks really interesting, and if it works as well as they claim it would be awesome. Joe This is good stuff for a filler type repair, takes a bit of getting used to, but if you learn to heat the base metal or part, you can flow it into the repair area very well, then buff it up.........thing is this is a soft composition solder product, it does not have the strength that a gas shielded weld has with an aluminum alloy rod. It also even with flux, sometimes will not bond well in a small crack area.......you have to grind the crack and open it up. Kit
FreezyRider Posted November 23, 2007 #13 Posted November 23, 2007 This is good stuff for a filler type repair, takes a bit of getting used to, but if you learn to heat the base metal or part, you can flow it into the repair area very well, then buff it up.........thing is this is a soft composition solder product, it does not have the strength that a gas shielded weld has with an aluminum alloy rod. It also even with flux, sometimes will not bond well in a small crack area.......you have to grind the crack and open it up. Kit Thanks, Kit. Great info. Joe
stanley243 Posted October 17, 2015 #14 Posted October 17, 2015 Is this the problem you are describing? Mine broke today and i'm looking for a solution. Did you have yours welded? Or did you get a new case?
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