Electrical mystique and stuck odo (-84 VXZ1200)

[Lassesand]

I have som troubles that is electrical related. First problem was that the clock turned off with the ignition and that the turn signals sometimes failed to work. I did find corrosion in a connector behind the front lamp and after some cleaning these problems disapeared:cool10:.

 

Now does the revcounter is showing to little and is sagging (reacting very slow to canges) . I assume that I should search for more faulty connectors, or ?

 

The fuel meter did play me a trick today; suddely the level sank like a stone and the warning light started to blink. After a couple of minutes the meter rose and all was well again:080402gudl_prv:.

 

And, non electrical; the speedometer shows a bit to little (not so important), have compared with my sons Z1000J and also by judjing from the rate at wich I pass cars...

But the odo and the trip is stuck! I Had a similar problem with my Yamaha TT600; fixed it by splitting the meter and lubing very gentle with WD40 at the right places (oxide/rust).

Is it difficult to split the speedometer on a XVZ1200?

[Yammer Dan]

Lube is probally the answer to about everything you have listed here. I don't think you should use WD40. Pulling the speedeometer is not that bad. It is in the manual I think or might be a thread here about it. Must pull windsheild and there are two screws on each side that hold control panel in. Can't remember all. But you should clean and lube with Dielectric grease all connections you come to. Lube the speedo and tach with a good light oil. 3 in 1 oil or something like that. WD 40 not the thing to use in here. I'm Sure someone will kick in that knows.

[painterman67]

Yammer is wright on the taking the cmu out is easy. I was really scared to dothis on my own but it had to be done and no one is near ne and I'm cheap so no stealor for that.

 

 

 

I removed the cmuby taking off the winshield trim and windshield. Then removed the headlight assembly just to make things a little easier for me to see and understand. A few screws and electical connectionslater and the speedo was in my hand. I used gun oil( the compressed type in a can) and lubed lightly and reinstalled.

 

Little tip. Dont put a electric drill on the speedo cable and expect to see the speedo move. All I was able to do was make the trip meter and mileage meter move forward. evedently the drill is not fast enough to get the speedo moving.

 

good luck and if oyu need any help post up and we will help as we can.remember if I can do anybody can.

 

David

[twigg]

It's also helpful to lube all but the top six inches of speedo cables. That stops the lubricant working it's way up into the speedo head.

 

You really, really don't want that to happen.

[bkuhr]

Currently have dash out for CMS mod, can provide pics if wanted.

 

Mod I am doing is bypassing current sense warning system for headlight high and low, and tail light running and brake. There is a post here somewhere about this, but I am taking it 1 step further and keeping the warning capability working for future planned (in progress) LED tails, and possible future HID/LED headlight. My mod has been tested to work(at the CMS), and instead of current sense, will use direct light sense( to be designed).

 

Planned to do write up later, but if there is any current interest, I could start write up now.

[bongobobny]

Your fuel gauge problem is probably the sender unit in the gas tank. It is located under the seat and comes out with 2 screws. The resistor element sometimes gets warped.

The resistor element is nsidde the little tin box when you take the sender and float out. You can adjust the tension a little bit by losening the phillips screw and sliding the assembly in a little and retighten. the whole thing wil want to rotate as well, so try to prevent that, but if it does, just adjust it so that the wiper is on each end with the float travel at end to end...