Electrical/LED question

[Yeah, Just Dale]

I know I can replace incandescent turn signal bulbs with LED clusters or bulbs to reduce electrical consumption (draw?).

But if I have to add a resistor in order for the "blinker" functionality to work, does the added draw from the resistor essentially cancel out the gain from going with LEDs? Or is there an added draw from the resistor but it's not enough to overcome the gain from the LED? And if so does anyone know what the numbers really are? (for example: incandescent bulb draws 5w, LED draws .2w, resistor draws 1w, so 5w - 1.2w still results in "recovering" 3.8w per bulb - and yeah, I just made up all the numbers.)

As you can see I'm not an electrician.

Thanks in advance.

[BuddyRich]

Yep, Basically your send the load to ground so you wind up using the same amount. I have all LED and the turn signals flash fast. I like the faster flashing. You don't have the 1/4 second lag time to get to full brightness on a LED. That's the reason for the slower flash on Incandescent bulbs. It takes time for them to heat up to full brightness.

[Squeeze]

You can allways replace the stock Flasher Relay with an electronic, load independent Relay, allowing to sustain normal Blinker Frequency with all LEDs or in any Combination with incandescent Bulbs. Cost around 17 Bucks or so for. There's a plug'n'Play Version for the 2Gen VMAX on Ebay, most likely won't fit plug'n'play on any VR, but it's a pretty easy Job to make it fit.

 

But you'll loose the automatic Blinker Reset when replacing the stock Relay.

[Flyinfool]

The only time that the load resistor is actually being used is while the turn signal is actually lit up. When the turn signal part of the LED is not illuminated you are still getting the full benifit of the LED driving/parking lights.

In reality, how much of you riding time is the turn signal bulb actually lit? Maybe 2 or 3 minutes max out of a half hour ride. not a significant draw. It is the running lights where you are really getting a benefit from the LEDs.

 

There is a thread on here somewhere that tells how to hook up an electronic flasher that will handle the reduced load of the LED flasher bulbs, with no load resistors, and retain the auto cancel feature.

[Naked Rider]

so if i iam going to spend the money on LED turn lights does this mean that i HAVE TO BUY THE RISISTOR TWO i dont mind the fast flash as long as it doesnt hurt the bike. i found some at a truck stop 15.99 for the red and 13.99 for the amber does that sound high?

[BuddyRich]

Mine has been flashing fast for 5 years . No problems.

http://www.superbrightleds.com Check here too.

[Naked Rider]

Buddy,

thoses are nice which ones are you running?

[Flyinfool]

I would say to try them with no resistor first. If you do not like the fast flash rate you can always add the resistor later.

 

Technically the flasher should wear out sooner. so you have to replace it once every 20 years instead of 25 years....... so what.

[Yeah, Just Dale]

You can allways replace the stock Flasher Relay with an electronic, load independent Relay, allowing to sustain normal Blinker Frequency with all LEDs or in any Combination with incandescent Bulbs. Cost around 17 Bucks or so for. There's a plug'n'Play Version for the 2Gen VMAX on Ebay, most likely won't fit plug'n'play on any VR, but it's a pretty easy Job to make it fit.

 

But you'll loose the automatic Blinker Reset when replacing the stock Relay.

 

 

I can live without the automatic reset - don't have that on my other bike so I'm used to idea of manual canceling. Thanks

[Yeah, Just Dale]

As always, great advice on this site.

[BuddyRich]

Buddy,

thoses are nice which ones are you running?

 

I actually made my own out of Luxeon LEDs. One effect I got was that I have rear running lamps in the rear turn lights. Seems that they can feed back thru the turnsignal indicator bulbs and turn on the rear turnsignals at reduced brightness. I could have put a diode in there to stop it but I liked it so let it run like that.

 

 

http://www.luxeonstar.com/Discontinued-LED-Products-s/146.htm

[twigg]

If you have a thermal flasher, then they might not flash.

 

The answer is a $10 electronic flasher from any auto-parts store.

 

You won't, by the way, save a great deal as they are intermittent. You will save a lot by replacing the tail light and instrument panel bulbs.

 

Believe it or not those lil' suckers draw 3.4W each!!

[Yeah, Just Dale]

The only time that the load resistor is actually being used is while the turn signal is actually lit up. When the turn signal part of the LED is not illuminated you are still getting the full benifit of the LED driving/parking lights.

In reality, how much of you riding time is the turn signal bulb actually lit? Maybe 2 or 3 minutes max out of a half hour ride. not a significant draw. It is the running lights where you are really getting a benefit from the LEDs.

 

There is a thread on here somewhere that tells how to hook up an electronic flasher that will handle the reduced load of the LED flasher bulbs, with no load resistors, and retain the auto cancel feature.

 

 

Thanks for this info. I assumed the resistor would be, well, resisting whenever the bulb was on, not just when blinking. You're right, spend way more time a running light than as a turn signal.

[Naked Rider]

Thanks Buddy

i was looking at the spider lights and wondering if i could make them work inside of the turn signal they look cool