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Posted

Got motor back into frame this weekend.

 

Encountered another small issue mounting up the VBoost intakes though.

 

I had the block face milled down .040", this is to raise compression. The block needed to be milled due to there not being enough material on the heads to do this. When the block is milled (or the heads for that matter), it lowers the heads by the amount taken off. Also moves heads inward at the 35 deg angle from vertical.

 

The VBoost intake is a rather rigid unit that did not react well to its mounting holes getting moved. I could not get the screws started. I had to ream the mounting holes in the intakes out 3/64" to allow the screws to engage. Fortunately with the VBoost's rigid intake, the carb rack should mount up fairly good.

 

This same head head movement will also create some additional fitment issue with the exhaust system, but it will be easier (I hope) to deal with.

 

Next is onward to getting carbs mounted on intakes. Rick Butler gave me a heads up that the carb pull cable bracket will need modified to clear the frame, due to the taller intakes, but I know that is coming. Already had to modify the "twinkie" to get the cooling hose on it oriented different.

 

May be going to put a Lithium battery in it to allow the bigger VMax air box to fit up. These new batteries are on back order so I may need to work around the air box issue.

 

And, yes I am replacing that old red fuel line this year !!

 

:mo money:

 

Gary

 

Posted

If youre tight for space, why not just take a page outta the performance car book and mount the battery in the back in the trunk?

 

If ya got some real heavy cables you would be fine if you reinforced the trunk.

 

Brian

Posted
If youre tight for space, why not just take a page outta the performance car book and mount the battery in the back in the trunk?

 

If ya got some real heavy cables you would be fine if you reinforced the trunk.

 

Brian

 

 

Skydoc mentioned doing that last time I talked to him on the phone. He said someone had put a battery is each rear bag to balance weight.

 

I have an MKI, and it is nice to be able to pull the bags in 30 seconds to clean or work on it. Battery cables would complicate this. Just ordered 10 foot of #4 gauge welding cable with fine strand wires. There is suppose to be over a 1000 strands in the cable. This will help with cranking power. Also got a 4 brush VMax starter for it. I'm not sure how much compression increase is gonna hinder start cranking RPM's. Bike always started on about first revolution though when it was warm outside.

 

Gary

Posted
Can you eliminate the airbox with those individual air filters I have seen?

 

Some of the Vmax guys have went to the pod air filters with the flat side carbs, but I don't know of anyone using them with the 35mm Mikunis.

 

It's possible, but it would be a re-jetting education for sure. And plenty of dyno time to get it right.

 

Attached is a picture of VMax air box & stock air box setting in frame for comparison.

 

Gary

Posted
Hey Gary,

An AGM type battery could be mounted horizontal, that might give you the space needed.

:confused24:

Earl

 

 

I have an AGM in it now, but I think it would take remounting the coils to get it to fit in on its side.

 

At $180 for the lithium battery, I would rather use the AGM though.

 

Gary

Posted

WOW.... First off I did not know about having to rejet for different filters. Second that V-Max airbox is huge!! The only idea I can think of is mounting the battery inside th fairing, there is room forward of the radio. Shaun

Posted
Hey Gary,

An AGM type battery could be mounted horizontal, that might give you the space needed.

:confused24:

Earl

 

Gary, maybe you can fit battery down where TCI was?

Posted

Gary,

 

I thought I had already sent you the SS paper that my friend David wrote up several years ago, but I have attached it again. He relocated the battery like you may be needing to do.

 

Another piece of advice is to throw away those tall carb junction rubbers and use the crossover juction rubbers. You will have to mill away the chamfered end of the carb base to make the carbs fit these rubber junctions, but it will give you more frame clearance and will make it alot easier to get the carbs mounted up. Those heavy double clamped junctions are really a bear getting the carbs into.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

 

Got motor back into frame this weekend.

 

Encountered another small issue mounting up the VBoost intakes though.

 

I had the block face milled down .040", this is to raise compression. The block needed to be milled due to there not being enough material on the heads to do this. When the block is milled (or the heads for that matter), it lowers the heads by the amount taken off. Also moves heads inward at the 35 deg angle from vertical.

 

The VBoost intake is a rather rigid unit that did not react well to its mounting holes getting moved. I could not get the screws started. I had to ream the mounting holes in the intakes out 3/64" to allow the screws to engage. Fortunately with the VBoost's rigid intake, the carb rack should mount up fairly good.

 

This same head head movement will also create some additional fitment issue with the exhaust system, but it will be easier (I hope) to deal with.

 

Next is onward to getting carbs mounted on intakes. Rick Butler gave me a heads up that the carb pull cable bracket will need modified to clear the frame, due to the taller intakes, but I know that is coming. Already had to modify the "twinkie" to get the cooling hose on it oriented different.

 

May be going to put a Lithium battery in it to allow the bigger VMax air box to fit up. These new batteries are on back order so I may need to work around the air box issue.

 

And, yes I am replacing that old red fuel line this year !!

 

:mo money:

 

Gary

 

Posted

OK, under the coils it is for the battery.

 

Looked at it some more tonight, and with the pictures Rick sent me (again, wish I could remember half what I forgot) I think I can do it. Will take a little McGyvering, but I have access to a sheet metal bender at work.

 

I was concerned about mounting the VBoost motor, but it looks like it will work OK in the left fairing pocket.

 

I also don't need the stock pressure boost sensor, I am using a MAP sensor with the Ignitech TCI. So that opens it up some more under there.

 

Gary

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