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Posted

So .... Having completed the IBA SaddleSore 1000 on my XS750, I am in desperate need of something comfier ... Mrs Twigg is all for this idea :)

 

I found This:

 

http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0465.jpg

 

It has done 56 000 miles, and has a few issues, mostly cosmetic, but not all.

 

It needs some love, and I shall give it some.

 

It needs minor things in the main, but they add up to quite a bit of work, so I will be busy.

Posted

Hey Steven,

What a nice Bike! The first VR I ever owned was an 86'VR. Ya' Done Good! And you remembered to post pics! NOW, just cough up that $12 so WE can get to work on this puppy! :crackup:Seriously, pony up for the membership, then download the MKII VR Maint. Manual, and as you move from issue to issue, just post what you have come across, and we will walk you thru it.

Compared to the XS750, this will be a Cadillac!

You didn't mention if this beauty was running or not?

You couldn't have picked a better time to purchase a scoot, with spring right around the corner. Good luck with this project, you won't regret it!:thumbsup2:

Earl

Posted

Yes, it's running.

 

The battery is dead, but it started with a jump. It didn't much want to start because it seemed only to be firing on two cylinders .... It ran fine after a moment or so.

 

I have two immediate issues with running it:

 

First ... The coolant is gone through a hole in the plastic pipe that goes into the water pump (Hose 3). I might be able to repair that, depends how good plastic epoxy is ... anyway, I'll but a new pipe.

 

Secondly. It won't start with the button. Power is going through it and it might just need a clean and a good battery. Either way those switches are coming apart for a thourough clean and some dielectric grease.

 

When it was running, it was very smooth, decently quiet and no smoke, so I am hoping the the 56k motor is good.

 

I'll clean and sync the carbs, check the valve clearances and see what happens when I get it hot with coolant in it.

 

Gotta order that rear tyre too, and that would be a good time to check the wheel and swinging arm bearings.

 

Lots to do.

Posted

I have a kit with the valve shim tool when you get to that part. PM me when you know you'll need it. Sometimes there's a queue for the kit.

Posted
I have a kit with the valve shim tool when you get to that part. PM me when you know you'll need it. Sometimes there's a queue for the kit.

 

Thanks.

 

I'm assuming I only need that if any of the shims need changing?

 

If it's like my XS, then they rarely do, and no smoke suggests that the valve stem seals are okay. I'm hoping.

 

I'll do a compression test as soon as I can get the engine spinning on the starter button.

 

Oh, and I have a leakdown tester too ... Just a little something I made myself when I saw the price of the commercial ones :)

Posted
Thanks.

 

I'm assuming I only need that if any of the shims need changing?

 

 

 

yes. but if you have the covers off and are to the point where you're measuring the clearances, you might as well be prepared to finish the job, if needed.

 

btw, the 2nd gen valve cover gaskets fits a 1st gen, and are better gaskets.

Posted
Yes, it's running.

 

The battery is dead, but it started with a jump. It didn't much want to start because it seemed only to be firing on two cylinders .... It ran fine after a moment or so.

 

 

Twigg,

 

An unsolicited piece of advice.

 

If you jump the bike from a car, do not jump it with the car engine running. Due to the electronics in the regulator/rectifier this could cause it to destroy the reg/rect. This is because the cars alternator can put out more current than the bikes circuitry will handle. Car does this because it senses the lower voltage when bikes battery is hooked up, then alternator kicks in and there is an inrush of a large amount of current.

 

Jumping with car not running is fine. Almost any car should be able to crank one of these for a long time.

 

Gary

Posted

Plastics on the side in the picture appear to be good. Those are among the most expensive items so you're off to a good start.

 

A tip if you ever have to tie it to a trailer again: Hook your straps behind the fairing over the lower tree. That way there's no chance you'll crack that very expensive plastic hitting a pot hole.

Posted
I bet quite a few get home that way. Enjoy!

 

-Jim

 

I will learn from that!

 

Thinking about it, I probably should have removed the windshield too, because they can crack if they flex too far.

 

Most of the strain was taken by the handlebar supports, but there was also a bit of, mainly sideways, pressure on the fairing edges.

 

It never moved an inch on it's 30 mile journey home.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Awesome bike. We have the same one, brown and all (although I'm currently painting it black). Bought it with 50k We've put 32k punishing miles on this bike, pulling the heaviest trailer through the worst weather conditions. I've dropped it at least 5 times. It's a beast! Definitely one of my favorite motorcycles ever! Just keeps on giving and not to ridiculous to maintain.

Posted

A quick note on the plastics:

 

They're certainly not the most resilient after 25 some odd years. When I stripped all the parts off our 86' a couple weeks it was like dumping 10 bags of scrabble pieces all over the garage. Sucks, because often the parts that break are a mount or something. The good news is is that all these parts repair real well with fiberglass. I wrapped glass all along the edges where the various mounts were and any other weak looking edges. In fact, at this point the bike is at least 1/4 fiberglass. Holds up real well and easy to work with. Giant pieces that broke off I replaced with either cardboard or some rogue plastic I had laying around. Covered it all in glass. Strong as heck.

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