Sandbagger Posted March 22, 2011 #1 Posted March 22, 2011 Changed my oil to Rotella T6. I do not have as much oil in it as usual because I was unknowingly overfilling. I am half way up in the oil window when level. The whining is unbelievable where there was no whining before. Whining only occurs on decelaration. When engine is under load it is fine. I think it is a volume issue. Thoughts? Bob
Dave77459 Posted March 22, 2011 #2 Posted March 22, 2011 Seems like you have two variables in this: new oil and new level. I believe your oil level is correct, but you can eliminate that as a variable by overfilling it like you have. (I mean, to the top of the sight glass) If the whining doesn't go away, then you have at least eliminated one variable. Dave
gibvel Posted March 22, 2011 #4 Posted March 22, 2011 i'm curious....what weight did you use.... T6 only comes in 5W-40
exrsa1 Posted March 22, 2011 #5 Posted March 22, 2011 Changed my oil to Rotella T6. I do not have as much oil in it as usual because I was unknowingly overfilling. I am half way up in the oil window when level. The whining is unbelievable where there was no whining before. Whining only occurs on decelaration. When engine is under load it is fine. I think it is a volume issue. Thoughts? Bob Bob, what oil did you change from? Brian
Seaking Posted March 22, 2011 #6 Posted March 22, 2011 And I had the opposite effect when I put T6 on this last post winter oil change.. the previous 2 hour ride in the blistering cold was loud and whiny (could have been me!) but after I changed the oil to T6 and new filter, the shifting is smoother, the engine feels smoother (I did do a carb synch as well...?) and it's quieter.. but it's just as cold outside.. brr. Curious to know what is causing the whine noise on your bike!
Condor Posted March 22, 2011 #7 Posted March 22, 2011 What oil were you running when it didn't whine???
SilvrT Posted March 22, 2011 #8 Posted March 22, 2011 T6 only comes in 5W-40 5W .... where do you live... in the frozen arctic?? Jeez around here where the temps rarely go below freezing and the bike never moves anyway, 10W is the lowest "low number" I'd go ... (just my .05 cents)
gibvel Posted March 22, 2011 #9 Posted March 22, 2011 5W .... where do you live... in the frozen arctic?? Jeez around here where the temps rarely go below freezing and the bike never moves anyway, 10W is the lowest "low number" I'd go ... (just my .05 cents) Hey, I was just stating what it says on the bottle. I'm sure if you look at the T6 up there it will say exactly the same thing!!
Sandbagger Posted March 22, 2011 Author #10 Posted March 22, 2011 Bob, what oil did you change from? Brian I have only changed the oil once since I have had it. I used the standard reccomedation in the book whatever that was. In taking off the filter and changing the oil I still could not get a full 4 quarts in without surpassing the midway point of the window. Bob
SilvrT Posted March 22, 2011 #11 Posted March 22, 2011 Hey, I was just stating what it says on the bottle. I'm sure if you look at the T6 up there it will say exactly the same thing!! :doh: sorry, my post was really directed to Sandbagger ...
SilvrT Posted March 22, 2011 #12 Posted March 22, 2011 I have only changed the oil once since I have had it. I used the standard reccomedation in the book whatever that was. In taking off the filter and changing the oil I still could not get a full 4 quarts in without surpassing the midway point of the window. Bob I would suggest that since your scoot is older, going to a synthetic oil might not be a good idea if it's not been accustomed to anything but dino .... and going so low as a 5w is a little much I'd think living where you do. 10-30, 10-40 in the colder months should be fine and in the highest heat of the summer, maybe 20-50 but 5-40 is what a person might put in their vehicle in the frozen north IMHO.
frogmaster Posted March 22, 2011 #13 Posted March 22, 2011 (edited) 5W .... where do you live... in the frozen arctic?? Jeez around here where the temps rarely go below freezing and the bike never moves anyway, 10W is the lowest "low number" I'd go ... (just my .05 cents) Oops SilvrT this was for Sandbagger... I LOVE this Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40. Why? I start my Bike every weekend during the Winter YES all 6.75 Months of Winter. 2 reasons: 1. Keeps everything lubed, no dry metal on metal start in the Spring Time! 2. The fuel with STABILE-izer does not have chances to evaporate in fuel bowl thus causing floats to stick, fuel to change to varnish, or jets to gunk up! These IMHO are 2 VERY GOOD reasons to run this Oil!!! Now the NOISE ONLY ON DECELERATION... Sounds like something is moving around in the drive train or rear wheel. Change Tire lately? Had Pumpkin of drive shaft off lately?? On Deceleration have you pulled the clutch in to see if noise stops??? Someone better Mechanic than I can take you from here... Trust me the OIL has no idea if your acceleration or deceleration!!! :080402gudl_prv: Edited March 22, 2011 by frogmaster Oops SilvrT this was for Sandbagger...
SilvrT Posted March 22, 2011 #14 Posted March 22, 2011 I LOVE this Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40. Why? I start my Bike every weekend during the Winter YES all 6.75 Months of Winter. 2 reasons: 1. Keeps everything lubed, no dry metal on metal start in Spring! 2. The fuel with STABILE-izer does not have chances to evaporate in fuel bowl thus causing floats to stick, fuel to change to varnish, or jets to gunk up! These IMHO are 2 VERY GOOD reasons to run this Oil!!! I start my bike at least every 2-3 weeks during the winter also but unless I'm mistaken, you guys in Michigan can get quite cold there so yeah, maybe 5w -40 is ok for that but once the weather is warm enuf to ride, I personally would not use that oil weight....that's all I'm sayin ... to each their own. heh... guess I was typing while you were editing LOL!
frogmaster Posted March 22, 2011 #15 Posted March 22, 2011 (edited) I start my bike at least every 2-3 weeks during the winter also but unless I'm mistaken, you guys in Michigan can get quite cold there so yeah, maybe 5w -40 is ok for that but once the weather is warm enuf to ride, I personally would not use that oil weight....that's all I'm sayin ... to each their own. heh... guess I was typing while you were editing LOL! Yep dual typing LOL. The 5w part of the oil "kicks in" when coldest... otherwise it is just a self adjusting Oil Weight as it warms up. The Top end of Heat Range Acts like a 40w. Seen it either here or here: VERY GOOD READS http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html Also The US Army has had me in KS twice and it can be like Northern Michigan for 2 months or so Sandbagger, I'm betting this is not an Oil Issue if the oil level is correct. Staying tuned to this thread Edited March 22, 2011 by frogmaster Sandbagger part Added...
Sandbagger Posted March 22, 2011 Author #16 Posted March 22, 2011 Oops SilvrT this was for Sandbagger... I LOVE this Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40. Why? I start my Bike every weekend during the Winter YES all 6.75 Months of Winter. 2 reasons: 1. Keeps everything lubed, no dry metal on metal start in the Spring Time! 2. The fuel with STABILE-izer does not have chances to evaporate in fuel bowl thus causing floats to stick, fuel to change to varnish, or jets to gunk up! These IMHO are 2 VERY GOOD reasons to run this Oil!!! Now the NOISE ONLY ON DECELERATION... Sounds like something is moving around in the drive train or rear wheel. Change Tire lately? Had Pumpkin of drive shaft off lately?? On Deceleration have you pulled the clutch in to see if noise stops??? Someone better Mechanic than I can take you from here... Trust me the OIL has no idea if your acceleration or deceleration!!! :080402gudl_prv: Good job detective. First off, I don't know what the famous "Engine Whine" even sounds like. I just heard my bike do what it is doing for the first time and it is what came into my head. I did change my back tire and take out my spline, lube it, change rear drive oil. Also had clutch slave problems so had to have the 2 covers off the left side of the bike. Really sounds like a whine. Don't hear any gear issues and again whenever the bike is under a load there is not hint of the noise. It is clearly when the bike is decelerating. With cluth in the sound immediately goes away. Thanks, bob
Seaking Posted March 22, 2011 #17 Posted March 22, 2011 OOPS, just to help me understand properly about weights and such on oils.. what temp range is this Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40 good for within what ranges? Right now we're sneaking in rides in the high 30s low 40's.. and summer time up to 90's.. but mostly in the 70-80 range.. My bike is stored indoors in a heated garage, so when it's cold out no probs starting it.. The bike has close to 90,000 miles on it.. I just put Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40 in it and not smelling any oil or burning or anything (is the engine too old / used for synthetics?) Thanks if you can shed some light on this.. Cheers
frogmaster Posted March 22, 2011 #18 Posted March 22, 2011 OOPS, just to help me understand properly about weights and such on oils.. what temp range is this Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40 good for within what ranges? Right now we're sneaking in rides in the high 30s low 40's.. and summer time up to 90's.. but mostly in the 70-80 range.. My bike is stored indoors in a heated garage, so when it's cold out no probs starting it.. The bike has close to 90,000 miles on it.. I just put Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40 in it and not smelling any oil or burning or anything (is the engine too old / used for synthetics?) Thanks if you can shed some light on this.. Cheers Sir, Read these and like anything else you have to decide. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html IMHO The engine will tell you IF it is too old for Syn Oil with Blow-By or Burning Oil, Ect... Earlier I posted 2 Main Reasons for using this Oil and it has more to do with Carbs & Fuel and that first time metal on metal startup in the Spring after sitting a Looooooooong time. Listen and Observe your engine it will talk to you ONLY if your listening...The Bike Whisperer LOL Now back to the regular scheduled program...Sandbagger Drive Train Noise on Deceleration (not oil related imho)...
hig4s Posted March 22, 2011 #20 Posted March 22, 2011 synthetic vs dino oil is irrelevant, 10w-40 dino and 10w-40 synth are the exact same viscosity!!!!!!!!
jfoster Posted March 22, 2011 #21 Posted March 22, 2011 Sandbagged, mine does the same thing on deceleration as yours, especially if I get the rpm's up (high pitch whine) It's the clutch basket in mine. It seems that some of the clutch baskets are very sensitive to variations in oil, some others maybe not so. Mine is! It's tolerable, be curious what happens with more oil. I've been using rotella 15w40 and for my rstd its been the best combination. Granted others have no issues with other oils, etc. I also have the I basket which got rid of the other whines while going thru the gears or at a constant speed.
LilBeaver Posted March 23, 2011 #22 Posted March 23, 2011 ... I LOVE this Rotella-T Synthic 5w-40. Why? I start my Bike every weekend during the Winter YES all 6.75 Months of Winter. 2 reasons: 1. Keeps everything lubed, no dry metal on metal start in the Spring Time! 2. The fuel with STABILE-izer does not have chances to evaporate in fuel bowl thus causing floats to stick, fuel to change to varnish, or jets to gunk up! These IMHO are 2 VERY GOOD reasons to run this Oil!!! ... Maybe this is a dumb question but what in the world does the type of oil you use have to do with #2? I completely understand #1 with respect to the use of synthetics but maybe you could clarify the relation with #2. Thanks
Sandbagger Posted March 23, 2011 Author #23 Posted March 23, 2011 Seems like you have two variables in this: new oil and new level. I believe your oil level is correct, but you can eliminate that as a variable by overfilling it like you have. (I mean, to the top of the sight glass) If the whining doesn't go away, then you have at least eliminated one variable. Dave Does anyone know if filling to the top of the site glass causes problems? Thanks, Bob
Guest scarylarry Posted March 23, 2011 #24 Posted March 23, 2011 Mine will drip oil out the vent tube on the leftside, other I don't know.. Does anyone know if filling to the top of the site glass causes problems? Thanks, Bob
frogmaster Posted March 24, 2011 #25 Posted March 24, 2011 (edited) Maybe this is a dumb question but what in the world does the type of oil you use have to do with #2? I completely understand #1 with respect to the use of synthetics but maybe you could clarify the relation with #2. Thanks Beave, #1 is just not synthetic 5w SYN is same as 5w Dino. Without #1 the fuel would not be moved, replenished, flushed through the Carbs. As Gasoline sits around it will evaporate into a varnish type goo. So having the 5w Oil allows the RSV to be started in below 32 Temps for many months on end and fuel to be moved, replenished flushed through the carbs and not allowed to sit for 6 months (In Northern Michigan thing) and turn into the varnish type goo. Ya heard of Varnished Carbs? Sticky Floats? Plugged Jets??? Yep fuel evaporated in Carb caused this. I once won a dinner from an old HD Dude who said I was full of BS about starting my RSV every weekend all winter long... he said he could not start his V-Twin in the Winter and my V-4 would be twice as hard to start!!! Should of seen his face LOL I bet he had HD 20-50 Oil Hope this helps Beave Edited March 24, 2011 by frogmaster spelling
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