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Posted

The right side horn has quit working on my RSV. The horn in the left cowling is still working but it is useless. I've heard babies cry louder than it sounds.

 

I didn't particularly want to go with the air horn mod, so I hunted around and found a nice looking replacement auto horn.

 

Plugged in the new horn and it doesn't work at all, not only that, it also kills the other horn as well. Neither horn works with the new horn plugged in. Removed the new horn and the left horn works again.

 

Measured the voltage available at the horn connection and got full battery voltage. Don't have the meter to check current draw. Per the wiring diagram, there are no hidden connectors in line to drop voltage under load. Checked the new horn by jumping directly to the battery and it works fine. Just doesn't work when pluged into the harness.

 

My question: is there something special about the OEM horn on the RSV? Does it take less current than an automobile horn? Other ideas?

Posted

From studying my bike with a DVOM and test light I found these results. With the key on you should have 12V on both of the wires with it unplugged, (or plugged in for that matter). I went and looked at my bike. The horn UNPLUGGED on the right side (with your butt in the seat) has the 2 wires. The wire towards the front is batt + with key on and stays batt + when pressing the horn button.......The wire towards the rear is batt + with key on and changes to ground when pressing the horn button. With that being the case then in my opinion NO a standard automotive horn will not work as you will be taking batt + and applying it to straight ground when you turn the key on causing a feedback. So YES these horns have to be a special design to work with the power and ground configuration as they have it.

I will apologise up front if I am incorrect. But from the diagram I studied, and the results I found from my bike this is my conclusion.

Posted
From studying my bike with a DVOM and test light I found these results. With the key on you should have 12V on both of the wires with it unplugged, (or plugged in for that matter). I went and looked at my bike. The horn UNPLUGGED on the right side (with your butt in the seat) has the 2 wires. The wire towards the front is batt + with key on and stays batt + when pressing the horn button.......The wire towards the rear is batt + with key on and changes to ground when pressing the horn button. With that being the case then in my opinion NO a standard automotive horn will not work as you will be taking batt + and applying it to straight ground when you turn the key on causing a feedback. So YES these horns have to be a special design to work with the power and ground configuration as they have it.

I will apologise up front if I am incorrect. But from the diagram I studied, and the results I found from my bike this is my conclusion.

Well, in a nice way I going to have to explain what you are seeing with the meter. True you will see a positive 12 volts on both sides of the horn with the ignition ON. However once the horn button is depressed all the 12 volts is dropped across the horn and the one side shows no voltage ie: ground. You can take any circuit and when its not in use the voltage is the same all along the circuit until the circuit, "amps":cool10: begins to flow in the circuit. The car horn does not differentiate between a motorcycle or a car. A car or truck horn works on 12 volts DC and so does the motorcycle. Sorry, DanC

Posted

I used a relay and installed a Stebel. Great loud sound. A little like air horns without the air system. I'm loving it!:cool10:

You'll have to make a little 'L' shaped mounting bracket for it, but that's easy.

Posted

Do the Stebil, and get the adapter and harness sold on this site.

I've done it both ways, home made with notes,,, and from "stuff" sold here (Carbonone).

 

It's just short of plug & play with the "stuff",, and looks like is belongs.

(Don't spend the money to get the chrome horn,,, it's not.)

 

And WOW,,, do they hear you!

 

Mike G in SC

Posted

Bite the bullet and put the Stebel on! :backinmyday:

Also run a 16ga wire from the Stebel relay to the horn behind the left lower. The reason both stock horns sound so puny is the wire that feeds then is too small!

As to why the car horn doesn't work is I suspect it is needs more amps (not a precise technical term) than the M/C horn. If that is the case the wires are REALLY too small.

Posted (edited)
I think I still have my stock horn. If you want it, it's yours.

 

Same here!! Works fine, had it installed from the factory for maybe about 2 months before I installed the air horn...

 

EDIT: Oops, I don't own it as of an hour ago...

Edited by bongobobny
Posted

I have my stebel from way back in 2006 mounted under the fairing, and left the oem horn in place.. the stebel IS loud, ouch.. and does get a cager's attention when you want to reach out and touch someone.. ;)

Posted
I have my stebel from way back in 2006 mounted under the fairing, and left the oem horn in place.. the stebel IS loud, ouch.. and does get a cager's attention when you want to reach out and touch someone.. ;)

 

Same thing I did with the steabel works great and good and noisey... :happy34:

Posted

Rode my RSTC to work today, parking it right by one of the employee entrances. One of my avid (50 mile/month) Hardley rider co-workers came by and told me he had one of those Stebel horns on his bike, but it keeps coming apart. I just smiled and said so far mine had not done that. didn't have the heart to tell him the Yammies don't shake things apart like the Hardleys... :stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot:

:rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf:

Posted
One of my avid (50 mile/month) Hardley rider co-workers

 

You should ask him how many yards he's put on his bike this month.. ;)

 

If you haven't put 20,000 miles on your bike in 6 months, you haven't been riding it.. or you're not retired yet. hehe

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