Good Luck

[Reddog170]

Well I got into the brakes again. Now that I know how to bleed the left front out. I started by getting the resivor open. This I thought was going to be a pain but it popped right loose and was not bad at all. After topping off the fluid I started to bleed it out. I did it old school but still cheated. I made a check valve that would allow the air to exit but not re-enter. After 2 cups of coffee and 45 minutes of pumping the pedal up and down I had all the air out and good clean new fluid throughout the system.

I want to thank you all for informing me how the brakes were set up and how to bleed them out. Shaun

[GaryZ]

Excellent!

Now, be sure and bleed the anti-dive first, then the front caliper, then the rear caliper.

[Reddog170]

Yep. Planning on doing that tomorrow. Want to give any trapped little air bubbles a chance to gather at the metering block the allow them to leave. Shaun

[Keemez]

Wanna know what really makes brake bleeding a snap/quick work? An electric vacuum pump. 10 seconds on each bleeder and you're done.

[Yammer Dan]

Speed Bleeders!!!

[Reddog170]

Well my wife will tell you that I am a cheap old coot. I just say if I can get it done old school for just the cost of a little time and brake fluid then why do I want to go and spend 2 hours running to the store, $50 on a tool I may or may not use again and have to listen to her tell me what I did not get done today? LOL. I like to get my hands dirty and the more I have to do manually the more I will remember about how it has to be done. Shaun

[GaryZ]

Well my wife will tell you that I am a cheap old coot. I just say if I can get it done old school for just the cost of a little time and brake fluid then why do I want to go and spend 2 hours running to the store, $50 on a tool I may or may not use again and have to listen to her tell me what I did not get done today? LOL. I like to get my hands dirty and the more I have to do manually the more I will remember about how it has to be done. Shaun

 

I guess I'm a cheap old coot also. Pumping the handle/pedal isn't all that tough.

While you have the brake fluid stuff out, replace the fluid in the juice-clutch. The same system is used; pump the clutch handle and hold, break the bleeder valve. The clutch bleeder is under a black rubber patch and on the left side. You can follow the line from the master.

 

I always use a clear tube routed from the bleeder into a clear bottle. My VR seems to prefer closing the bleeder before release of the handle or the fluid wants to go back up the clear tubing.

[Condor]

I guess I'm a cheap old coot also. Pumping the handle/pedal isn't all that tough.

While you have the brake fluid stuff out, replace the fluid in the juice-clutch. The same system is used; pump the clutch handle and hold, break the bleeder valve. The clutch bleeder is under a black rubber patch and on the left side. You can follow the line from the master.

 

I always use a clear tube routed from the bleeder into a clear bottle. My VR seems to prefer closing the bleeder before release of the handle or the fluid wants to go back up the clear tubing.

 

OK guys... I need to know your trick that makes it so you can pump up the pressure on the pedal, and hold it while you run around and crack the bleeder valve on the front left brake??? I'd also like to know how you build up pressure on the clutch and then crack the bleeder on the clutch slave???

[Keemez]

Here's another trick, and although it sounds booOooOooOooOooOoogus...... it DOES work.

 

Once you're confident you've got er bled out pretty good, take and firmly apply the lever (not sure how you'd do this with the rear pedal, although I suppose it's possible) and ziptie or ropetie it in the heavily applied position for at least overnight or preferably a 24 hour period. Periodically take a large screwcriver or hammer handle or something that you can repeatedly taptaptap the brake lines with to jostle/jar them. The theory here is that when you pressurize the line, any microscopic air bubbles in the fluid will tend to congregate together to form larger bubbles. The tapping of the lines is claimed to help the larger bubbles rise toward the reservoir where they won't do any harm. I did this on my Vulcan and dramatically improved the lever feel- it was night and day difference. Then I did it on the Venture and slightly improved it too. I know it sounds crazy, but it works. Give er a shot.

 

Anybody else heard of this?

[Reddog170]

Velcro straps work great for holding hand levers in and the pedal just need the right position siting on the ground. Stretch out your leg pump, and hold the pedal the pop the bleeder. Shaun

[utadventure]

OK guys... I need to know your trick that makes it so you can pump up the pressure on the pedal, and hold it while you run around and crack the bleeder valve on the front left brake??? I'd also like to know how you build up pressure on the clutch and then crack the bleeder on the clutch slave???

 

Jack- I broke the bleeder loose and then sealed it shut leaving the wrench on the bleeder, turned the front wheel as far to the left as I could. In this position, I could depress the foot peddle with my left hand and release the bleeder on the left front caliper.

 

I know you have a better reach than I do!

 

Dave

[Condor]

Velcro straps work great for holding hand levers in and the pedal just need the right position siting on the ground. Stretch out your leg pump, and hold the pedal the pop the bleeder. Shaun

 

Errrr??? Is velcro 'old school'.....

[Reddog170]

Sure is, it is not automatic or digital. Is it?

[Condor]

Jack- I broke the bleeder loose and then sealed it shut leaving the wrench on the bleeder, turned the front wheel as far to the left as I could. In this position, I could depress the foot peddle with my left hand and release the bleeder on the left front caliper.

 

I know you have a better reach than I do!

 

Dave

 

We need pics McGiver.....

[Condor]

Sure is, it is not automatic or digital. Is it?

 

i guess it all depends on what you call old school....

[Reddog170]

Well according to my kids a wired game controller is old school. LOL.

[GaryZ]

Here's another trick, and although it sounds booOooOooOooOooOoogus...... it DOES work.

 

Once you're confident you've got er bled out pretty good, take and firmly apply the lever (not sure how you'd do this with the rear pedal, although I suppose it's possible) and ziptie or ropetie it in the heavily applied position for at least overnight or preferably a 24 hour period. Periodically take a large screwcriver or hammer handle or something that you can repeatedly taptaptap the brake lines with to jostle/jar them. The theory here is that when you pressurize the line, any microscopic air bubbles in the fluid will tend to congregate together to form larger bubbles. The tapping of the lines is claimed to help the larger bubbles rise toward the reservoir where they won't do any harm. I did this on my Vulcan and dramatically improved the lever feel- it was night and day difference. Then I did it on the Venture and slightly improved it too. I know it sounds crazy, but it works. Give er a shot.

 

Anybody else heard of this?

 

Absolutely! I could not get good pressure after de-linking the brakes until I did this trick.

BTW: I used an old school bungee cord wrapped around the brake handle

Edited March 15, 2011 by GaryZ

[GaryZ]

OK guys... I need to know your trick that makes it so you can pump up the pressure on the pedal, and hold it while you run around and crack the bleeder valve on the front left brake??? I'd also like to know how you build up pressure on the clutch and then crack the bleeder on the clutch slave???

 

Left Front Brake:

Have your assistant pump and hold the pedal

 

Clutch:

The master and slave/bleeder on my Gen 1 are on the left side of the bike