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Posted

I know, I know, another "oil" thread...

 

Looking to use some synthetic oil this time around when I perform my oil change on the 85 this spring. What are the better brands to chose from? Which are the ones I should stay away from?

 

Thanks, Bill

Posted

I went with the Rotela T6 after alot of reading and himming and hawing bike runs great it was that or Mobile 1 Racing 4T but it was tough times so I went with what was the cheaper did alot of reading and it just seemed like it is proven good choice. :confused24:

Posted

Ok, thanks for the quick reply. I guess I should've been more specific. I meant for my 85 Venture Royale. I've already been using Mobile's synthetic in my other vehicles for years. My 99 Bonneville just turned over 222000 miles the other day and hasn't given me a lick of trouble and is still running strong and getting 26-29mpg. Just got done changing the oil in it and the daughters car today as a matter of fact.

 

Bill

Posted

Mobile 1 Racing 4T. I've used it in my RSV since 1999. I agree that more use the Rotella but I think it is simply because it is cheaper. It may be fine but Mobil 1 has proven itself to me for many years in my cars, bikes, etc.

Posted

Nice thread. I will be running synthetic in my 83 when I get it on the road. This just saved me from starting my own thread. I used to run Mobil synthetic in my race car, never once had an issue.

Posted

So is this Rotella T6 and or Mobil 4T safe for the wet clutch on a bike? I keep hearing of "friction inhibitors" in conventional "car" engine oils that get into the friction discs of a motorcycles clutch and eventually help cause the clutch to start slipping sooner. I used to always use car oil in my bikes throughout the years and have had no slippage. When I first got my VR it had some slippage issues. Then I found the rod in the clutch lever was in backwards and wasn't allowing all the pressure off of the clutch and causing the slipping. But I think I discovered the root cause of the issue to late, as the slipping eventually came back as I got used to the feel of the bike and started twisting the throttle a bit harder. Then I found this AWSOME site and did my research before replacing the clutch. That's when I first learned about the "friction inhibitors". I then was sure to use "motorcycle" specific oils on the VR ever since. Are they something fairly new to car engine oils? The Manual simply calls for SE 20W40 motor oil. Which the "SE" is now an obsolete term. I've been running the Yamalube 20W50 from the local Steelership since I bought the bike. So if anybody has any links to where I can buy the oil online and hopefully save a few bucks would also be helpful. I'll also be adding the spin-on filter adapter at the same time. Then I can use a better type filter than stock as well.

 

Bill

Posted

Hey Bill,

 

I've been running Amsoil 10-40 motorcycle oil in mine since the 8k change (77k now). Mainly cus the nearest yama stealer is 30+ miles away, and the local Fleet Farm is 3 blocks out of my way home from work.

 

Just my :2cents: , Scooter Bob

Posted
Hey Bill,

 

I've been running Amsoil 10-40 motorcycle oil in mine since the 8k change (77k now). Mainly cus the nearest yama stealer is 30+ miles away, and the local Fleet Farm is 3 blocks out of my way home from work.

 

Just my :2cents: , Scooter Bob

 

 

same here Amsoil :thumbsup2:

Posted
Hey Bill,

 

I've been running Amsoil 10-40 motorcycle oil in mine since the 8k change (77k now). Mainly cus the nearest yama stealer is 30+ miles away, and the local Fleet Farm is 3 blocks out of my way home from work.

 

Just my :2cents: , Scooter Bob

 

Same here, Amsoil. Also use Amsoil filter. I like it because I can buy direct and have shipped direct to my house. One less trip somewhere.

Posted
Another vote for Rotella synthetic!! Mobil 1 is good too, but the Shell seems to be more popular with bikers...

 

I have used Rotella synthetic in my 07 RSV since the first oil change, and usually go about 5000 miles between oil changes. No completes Bob :bowdown:

Posted

Those 3 would be my choices.

Amsoil would be #1 if anyone stocked it locally in a parts store.

Mobil 1 Racing 4T (which is M/C specific) is what I use because it has the most Phosphorus & Zinc of any readily available oils. P&Z is VERY important for the longevity of our non-cat, flat tappet engines.

If neither of the others was available it would be the Rotella T6. It has an acceptable amount of P&Z. And it's a great oil. I switched from Rotella T to the Synthetic T6 in my Cummins and my mileage increased by 15%.

Posted

from the research I've done, and from personal experience I think the following are good

 

Amsoil

Mobil 1

Castrol Syntec

Rotella synthetic

 

I buy which ever of these I can find the easiest and cheapest. Which so far, is never Amsoil.

 

 

The only ones I really question are

 

Redline and Royal Purple, I have seen tests where they didn't do as well as some non-synthetics, yet the cost as much or more than Amsoil.

Posted

Well since Rotella T6 was all I could find in my neck of the woods, that's what I went with. The bike does seem to be doing just fine on it. A mechanic buddy told me one time that with oil, the most important thing is the change. Be sure you're using quality stuff and change the oil religiously.

Posted
Same here, Amsoil. Also use Amsoil filter. I like it because I can buy direct and have shipped direct to my house. One less trip somewhere.

 

I also use the Amsoil Oil Filter

 

we have a auto parts store in town here they carry it and filters

Posted

Ok, Just got off the phone with the local Yamaha dealer looking for an oil filter for my Maxim. I asked about synthetic oils and as suspected, they run $15 or so a qt. over there. He asked how many miles were on the bike and advised me against using a synthetic in either of my bikes. He went on to say that after that many miles, my clutches have already absorbed the conventional oil I have been using and that the synthetics would cause them to act erratically. He also mentioned several others who have had this issue then went back to conventional oil and the problem went away. But if I was to do a clutch change, then it would be perfectly fine to run with the synthetics. Anybody have any additional input on this? I would seem to me that if he was simply interested in making money, he would've wanted to sell me the $15/qt. oil and not even mention the issue.

 

Thanks, Bill

 

P.S. Is there a spin on oil filter adapter for an 86 Yamaha Maxim XJ700 out there?

Posted
Ok, Just got off the phone with the local Yamaha dealer looking for an oil filter for my Maxim. I asked about synthetic oils and as suspected, they run $15 or so a qt. over there. He asked how many miles were on the bike and advised me against using a synthetic in either of my bikes. He went on to say that after that many miles, my clutches have already absorbed the conventional oil I have been using and that the synthetics would cause them to act erratically. He also mentioned several others who have had this issue then went back to conventional oil and the problem went away. But if I was to do a clutch change, then it would be perfectly fine to run with the synthetics. Anybody have any additional input on this? I would seem to me that if he was simply interested in making money, he would've wanted to sell me the $15/qt. oil and not even mention the issue.

 

Thanks, Bill

 

P.S. Is there a spin on oil filter adapter for an 86 Yamaha Maxim XJ700 out there?

 

Every bike I've ever owned, new or used, no matter how many miles, I have switched to synthetic oil and never had a clutch slip.

Posted
Ok, Just got off the phone with the local Yamaha dealer looking for an oil filter for my Maxim. I asked about synthetic oils and as suspected, they run $15 or so a qt. over there. He asked how many miles were on the bike and advised me against using a synthetic in either of my bikes. He went on to say that after that many miles, my clutches have already absorbed the conventional oil I have been using and that the synthetics would cause them to act erratically. He also mentioned several others who have had this issue then went back to conventional oil and the problem went away. But if I was to do a clutch change, then it would be perfectly fine to run with the synthetics. Anybody have any additional input on this? I would seem to me that if he was simply interested in making money, he would've wanted to sell me the $15/qt. oil and not even mention the issue.

 

Thanks, Bill

 

P.S. Is there a spin on oil filter adapter for an 86 Yamaha Maxim XJ700 out there?

 

 

I bet by this time next year we will be thinking $15/quart was cheap.

Posted
Ok, Just got off the phone with the local Yamaha dealer looking for an oil filter for my Maxim. I asked about synthetic oils and as suspected, they run $15 or so a qt. over there. He asked how many miles were on the bike and advised me against using a synthetic in either of my bikes. He went on to say that after that many miles, my clutches have already absorbed the conventional oil I have been using and that the synthetics would cause them to act erratically. He also mentioned several others who have had this issue then went back to conventional oil and the problem went away. But if I was to do a clutch change, then it would be perfectly fine to run with the synthetics. Anybody have any additional input on this? I would seem to me that if he was simply interested in making money, he would've wanted to sell me the $15/qt. oil and not even mention the issue.

 

Thanks, Bill

 

P.S. Is there a spin on oil filter adapter for an 86 Yamaha Maxim XJ700 out there?

 

That's a bunch of hooey! I've switched back and forth between dino and syn oil and between brands and never had a problem with anything. Oils are so compatable as long as you stay away from the "energy conserving" stuff.

Posted

I seem to remember reading a similar thread a few months (?) ago where someone stated that changing from dino oil to synthetic on a higher mileage bike could lead to some seepage at some gaskets or seals. I don't remember if a reason was given. They did specify that it only seemed to occur on higher mileage machines which would imply that switching back and forth might not be a problem, but a change after a lot of miles and years on dino oil only could potentially cause problems. I was wondering if anyone has had this experience?

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