Trailer wiring - what to install ?

[XV1100SE]

This winter I installed the R-Mark receiver on my bike ('09 RSV). I don't have a trailer yet and probably won't get one until next year but I figured while I'm doing everything else I should pre-wire the bike for a trailer. Questions....

 

- I put the trunk wing on this winter and connected the wires under the seat (per Yamaha's instructions for now - pretty Mickey Mouse the way they suggest). Should I connect the trailer wires under the seat as well or from the tail light? I also have the Stebel horn/wiring harness and passing lights. I don't have a fuse block because I haven't found one that I thought would work very well. Getting a little cramped under the seat!

 

- is there a standard wiring harness that is available? If so, should I install one that has a 4 or 5 pin connector?

 

- is an isolator recommended or does it depend on whether the trailer has LED's? What isolator is recommended? I've seen where you need an isolator depending on whether the brake/turn lights are combined on the trailer but should you put one in the bike for both conditions?

 

I've seen the other threads that say what wire on the bike is for each function (brake/turn/running light) so that part I already know.

[Flyinfool]

A lot depends on your trailer as to whether it requires 4 or more wire connections. This will also determine what isolator you would need.

Many people replace all of the trailer lights with LEDs and that can change the bike requirements as well.

 

With that said, most trailers use the 4 wire setup.

When I wire up my bike I will use a powered 5 to 4 wire converter.

[SilvrT]

I used a standard 5 wire connector and tied into the stock wiring under the seat. Can't comment on the LED's although I do have a set of LED's that are Run/Brake only on the trailer as well as the bike and I didn't add anything else such as an isolator. hmmmm I guess I just did comment on the LED's, didn't I?

 

Guess I should mention that I rebuilt my trailer and re-wired and put new lights on. Standard non-LED's at the bottom for Run/Signal and LED's at the top for Run/Brake Here's a pic..

 

[ATTACH]54714[/ATTACH]

[Brake Pad]

4 prong connection

[SilvrT]

4 prong connection

 

Dumb question....

 

If using a 4-prong connector, 1 wire for run, 1 wire for brake, 1 each for L & R signal, what do you do for ground??

 

That's where my 5th wire came in and why I used a 5-wire connector.

[Mel]

Dumb question....

 

If using a 4-prong connector, 1 wire for run, 1 wire for brake, 1 each for L & R signal, what do you do for ground??

 

That's where my 5th wire came in and why I used a 5-wire connector.

 

4 wire is for system with integrated stop light/turn signal

 

1 wire for tail lights

1 wire for left turn/brake light

1 wire for right turn/brake light

1 wire for ground

 

5 wire is for system with turn signals seperate from the brake lights.

 

1 wire for tail light

1 wire for brake lights

1 wire for left turn signal

1 wire for right turn signal

1 wire for ground

 

That's the only way I know to wire 'em, and it has worked that way for me for years, for wiring to pick-up truck, car, or motorcycle.

[Flyinfool]

There are some that try to get away with using the ball for the ground.

That may work for a while but is not the right way to do it.

As soon as the ball or the coupler gets some rust or dirt you will have an intermittent connection.

 

A 4 wire is;

ground

run

left turn/brake

right turn/brake

 

A 5 wire is;

Ground

Run

Brake

Left turn

Right turn

 

Your bike is 5 wire because the brake light and the turn signals are separate.

Most trailers are 4 wire and have combined brake and turn signals.

 

To put a 4 wire trailer on a 5 wire tow vehicle you need a converter installed on the tow vehicle.

 

To put a 5 wire trailer on a 5 wire bike you do not "need" anything other than the connector.

 

 

Dang, I typed to slow again, yet still.

[Mel]

There are some that try to get away with using the ball for the ground.

That may work for a while but is not the right way to do it.

As soon as the ball or the coupler gets some rust or dirt you will have an intermittent connection.

 

A 4 wire is;

ground

run

left turn/brake

right turn/brake

 

A 5 wire is;

Ground

Run

Brake

Left turn

Right turn

 

Your bike is 5 wire because the brake light and the turn signals are separate.

Most trailers are 4 wire and have combined brake and turn signals.

 

To put a 4 wire trailer on a 5 wire tow vehicle you need a converter installed on the tow vehicle.

 

To put a 5 wire trailer on a 5 wire bike you do not "need" anything other than the connector.

 

 

Dang, I typed to slow again, yet still.

 

 

Yep, what he said!:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

[SilvrT]

I understand the difference between why using a 4-prong vs a 5-prong... what I couldn't understand is how Brake Pad got away with only using a 4-prong when the bike is 5 wire

 

Ground

Run

Brake

L Signal

R Signal

[Condor]

Wait until you get your trailer and then decide what you'll need. You know that if you install a 4-wire that Murphy will fix you up with one needing a 5......

:cody

[zooer]

My suggestion is to use a five wire flat vehicle side connector. All the connection are right under the seat by the battery and easy to find. If for some reason later you don't need all five and only four then just don't use the extra. My bike is an RSV or a Wing and the trailer uses a five wire flat. Works on either bike.

[Condor]

My suggestion is to use a five wire flat vehicle side connector. All the connection are right under the seat by the battery and easy to find. If for some reason later you don't need all five and only four then just don't use the extra. My bike is an RSV or a Wing and the trailer uses a five wire flat. Works on either bike.

 

That's great except there are trailers that don't use a flat 4 or 5 connection.... Ala Bushtec and Motorvation and etc's....

[Mel]

If you have a trailer that has seperate turn signals use a five wire connector, wire it direct to the motorcycle wiring, 5 pin connector.

 

If you have a trailer that has combination brake light/turn signals you must use an adapter. 5 wires from the motorcycle into the adapter, 4 wires out, 4 pin connector.

 

Written in stone!

[Guest tx2sturgis]

If you have a trailer that has combination brake light/turn signals you must use an adapter. 5 wires from the motorcycle into the adapter, 4 wires out, 4 pin connector.

 

Written in stone!

 

 

Well not quite written in stone....

 

IF the combination brake/turn signals are using SEPARATE bulbs (like a red/amber lens) then you can still treat that as a 5 wire, and no adapter needed. If its using the same filament to provide brake and turn functions, within a single (or pair of) 1157 bulb, then yes, you will need an adapter.

[Mel]

Well not quite written in stone....

 

IF the combination brake/turn signals are using SEPARATE bulbs (like a red/amber lens) then you can still treat that as a 5 wire, and no adapter needed. If its using the same filament to provide brake and turn functions, within a single (or pair of) 1157 bulb, then yes, you will need an adapter.

 

I said if there were SEPERATE turn signals use 5 pin, I guess you are saying the same thing. Does not matter if they behind a shared lens or in a seperate housing, that WOULD NOT BE combination, that would be SEPERATE. And, 1157 DOES NOT USE THE SAME FILAMENT, there are two filaments in one bulb, uses 4 pin.

 

Written in stone.

[kj5ix]

That's great except there are trailers that don't use a flat 4 or 5 connection.... Ala Bushtec and Motorvation and etc's....

 

That is when these come into play,,,

 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/objects_lg/32300/32229.JPG

[Condor]

That is when these come into play,,,

 

 

Little severe doncha think?? Why not wait and use the pigtail that comes with the trailer???

[XV1100SE]

The way I'm reading it is for the most flexibility, on the bike wire it for a 5 wire connector and that way whether the trailer has a 4 or 5 pin I'm covered, other than possibly that the connector on the trailer looks like, but that would be easy to convert, either using side cutters or an adapter.

 

Okay... that covers the connector (which the wiring harness should be easy to find and just wire it in). Since no one suggested splicing in at the tail light I take it under the seat is the "recommended" way to go. I'm going to want to modify the wiring under the seat then since I also use the trunk wing so everything splices in neat and secure.

 

Not too many comments on using an isolator. From reading other threads on trailer wiring I got the impression that it helps isolate shorts coming from the trailer. Yay's or Nay's on putting in an isolator?

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I said if there were SEPERATE turn signals use 5 pin, I guess you are saying the same thing. Does not matter if they behind a shared lens or in a seperate housing, that WOULD NOT BE combination, that would be SEPERATE. And, 1157 DOES NOT USE THE SAME FILAMENT, there are two filaments in one bulb, uses 4 pin.

 

Written in stone.

 

I was just adding to your article, not arguing with it.

 

But the fact remains, I am correct. The 1157 bulb uses two filaments, but the 'running' filament is irrelevant in this case. Its the stop/turn filament that matters, and it IS shared on a 4 wire system, and is NOT shared on a 5 wire system, and that last (5 wire) situation makes the difference on whether a converter is needed.

 

And its not a 4 pin bulb, its 2 pins, plus the ground. (the bayonet pins don't count electrically, they just hold the bulb in the socket and maintain proper alignment of the electrical pins)

 

And some trailers use 1156 bulbs as the turn signals, and most of those are 5 wire systems.

 

So again, this stuff is not written in stone...its written in phosphor, or LCD or LED dots...

 

 

 

 

Edited March 15, 2011 by tx2sturgis

[zooer]

That's great except there are trailers that don't use a flat 4 or 5 connection.... Ala Bushtec and Motorvation and etc's....

Uuuuuuh I knew that. I guess the answer that was made, "don't do nothing until you get a trailer" would be the correct one then. I'll go back under my rock now------

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Not too many comments on using an isolator. From reading other threads on trailer wiring I got the impression that it helps isolate shorts coming from the trailer. Yay's or Nay's on putting in an isolator?

 

If the trailer you buy is a 4 wire trailer, you will need some kind of converter, whether you buy one, or build one.

 

If you buy a trailer thats set up as a 5 wire system, then no isolator is NEEDED, (unless it has a LOT of incandescent bulbs), but some kind of protection SHOULD be used. It can simply be a fuse in each supply wire, OR, you can use a trailer isolator.

 

 

We can get more deeply into the details when you tell us which trailer you bought, and which system it uses.

[XV1100SE]

We can get more deeply into the details when you tell us which trailer you bought, and which system it uses.

 

Trailer won't be until next year but figured while I'm completing other work and have the seat off I'd save some time by wiring for a trailer now.

 

I can see doing a 5 pin connector now and adapter if I end up with a trailer that uses 4 conductors. Could fuse the conductors on the bike or use an isolator but didn't want to do that if I didn't have to. Still like some ideas on whether an isolator would be good to do now or fuses.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Trailer won't be until next year but figured while I'm completing other work and have the seat off I'd save some time by wiring for a trailer now.

 

I can see doing a 5 pin connector now and adapter if I end up with a trailer that uses 4 conductors. Could fuse the conductors on the bike or use an isolator but didn't want to do that if I didn't have to. Still like some ideas on whether an isolator would be good to do now or fuses.

 

If you are asking what *I* would do, here it is:

 

In advance, presume that the trailer you will buy is a 5 wire system, and hook up a 5 or 6 wire connector under the seat. Access to ground, left, right, tail, and brake signals,. Fuse all lines except ground. Then prepare a harness that hooks up to that connector and will be able to be plugged in and routed over or under the rear fender when needed. Keep that harness handy, off the bike, but with no tail-end connector attached.

 

In the distant future when you go trailer shopping, dont worry too much about whether its a 4 wire or 5 wire trailer, just buy what you like.

 

Then, if the trailer you buy IS a 5 wire trailer, ( and many of them for motorcycle use are 5 wire) its a simple matter to route the harness, attach the matching connector under the seat, add the correct connector that matches the trailer to the tail-end of the harness, test it all out, and your done.

 

If the trailer you buy turns out to be a 4 wire system, such as a Harbor Freight unit, then you have 2 choices:

 

1) Buy a converter and install it under the seat, modifying your previous installation, and use 4 wires of the harness. Route the harness, attach the 4 wire connector at the tail of the bike, test, and youre done.

 

Or

 

2) Convert the new trailer to a 5 wire system by adding one more wire from the connector at the coupler to the light fixtures, and then ADD separate brake light LEDs to both sides of the trailer. Attach the 5 or 6 wire connector to the bike harness, install the harness, test it all out, and your done.

 

 

 

If you are thinking about a Harbor Freight trailer or one like it, then in that case, I'd pre-wire it for a 4 wire system.

 

 

 

Hope this helps you.

 

 

One more thing that can be done: You can wire your bike to be compatible with BOTH 5 wire and 4 wire trailers, which is what I did. I have 2 different trailers, and one is 5 wire, the other is 4 wire. I used a converter which powers the 4 wire trailer, and use a direct 5 wire hookup which powers the 5 wire trailer. I ran 2 seperate harnesses to the back of the bike, both enclosed in a single split loom covering. It terminates with 2 connectors. I hook up whichever trailer I'm pulling, plug in the correct connector, and I'm done.

 

Some additional info: 5 wire to 4 wire converters have been known to fail, and if you have already converted your BRAKE light on the bike to an LED unit you might have some issues with the converter not getting the proper signals. All other things being equal, I prefer a 5 wire system. Its simpler, with less points of failure, and FAR easier to diagnose lighting problems when they occur.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 15, 2011 by tx2sturgis