Shucks, looks like you can add me to the failed ignition switch list...

[LilBeaver]

Well folks, this morning mine finally gave me the firm signs that my ignition switch is on the way out. For a long time my trip odo would reset itself and I would have a flicker of the electronics when turning on my high beams; I had isolated that problem to a weakly connected and very corroded ground. BUT, in the last week or two I have noticed a flicker on my speedo when I turn the ignition ON (before starting) and didn't think much of it until this morning...

I turned my key to the 'ON' position and then noticed that the display went completely out. When I went to turn the key back off to further investigate I found that it came back on when put a little pressure on the key to turn it from the "ON" position back to 'OFF'. So, now the experimentalist in me comes out and checks to see if I can duplicate the symptom/problem. Sure enough, when turning the ignition to the "ON" position, if I turn it all the way to the right it acts as if it is in the 'ACC' position and a little pressure counter-clockwise puts it back to functioning as if it is in the 'ON' position.

 

Hmmm, so not the question is:

1) Disassemble switch, attempt cleaning/repair, reassemble and ride on?

2) Permanently install the by-pass I built and just let it go?

3) Dump 280+ at my local dealer for a new ignition switch? (haha- NO.)

4) Partshark and get a replacement switch for ~160

5) E-bay/pinwal get a replacement switch for 170 (don't believe me, go look for yourself - what a joke)

6) Of course there is always the "pretend like it isn't a problem until I am in the middle of BFN and my bike dies 'unexpectedly'". -- (haha -- this too is a big ol negatory)

 

 

I think I will likely go with option #2 and a #1 planned in the near future and #4 as a back-up plan.

 

 

I actually have a switch all wired up and ready to go where all I would need to do is snip the current wires and tie the bypass in. What I would like to come up with is an easy setup that would allow for my switch to be installed and ready to go allowing for a simple 'unbolt the tank and plug in the switch wires' solution, that way there is not the risk of someone flipping the switch and riding off with my bike without the key (I realize that is VERY unlikely to happen but still a possibility).

So, I guess I'll need to get out the trusty old 'dingy' wiring diagrams (THANKS AGAIN!!!) and some thought.

 

I guess I am venting more than anything here, so don't mind me and my mindless writing; although I wouldn't argue with suggestions

[adventurer 08]

Is there a certain age or mileage on the rsv bikes that the ignition switch goes out? I have an 08 rsv and I wonder when my time is up. No problems so far.

[Rick Haywood]

Put the bypass on an d forget it. I did it with mine and I drilled a small hole and put a push button switch on the front of the plastic piece that goes around the ignition switch. No more problems and you can barely see the switch

[dingy]

If you lock the steering on it, they are only going to ride in very tight circles even if they do figure out how to start it with the bypass installed.

 

Gary

[LilBeaver]

Is there a certain age or mileage on the rsv bikes that the ignition switch goes out? I have an 08 rsv and I wonder when my time is up. No problems so far.

 

Good question and the general consensus is that all we know is some 'have gone' and some 'have yet to go'. The short and sweet version for the generally accepted explanation for these switch failures is that the 'weakness' is a result of the fact that by design ALL of the bikes current is routed through the switch when it is in the 'on' position causing degradation in the switch contacts and the eventual demise of the switch it self. Especially if you have your passing/driving lamps routed through the headlight circuit. A little searching and you will find the 'proper' way to wire up your passing lamps (with a relay and drawing power straight from the battery) and thereby reducing the amount of current run through the ignition switch itself.

If I were you, I would ensure that any accessories are wires up with the appropriate relays to reduce the strain on the ignition switch itself and not worry about it. As you have an 08, you've got some warranty left. Just keep an eye on your bike for any 'suspicious electrical activity' and deal with it appropriately as it occurs. If you are still under warranty, check your basic connections, fuses and grounds and if you suspect it is the switch - take that sucka in and get it looked at under warranty.

Put the bypass on an d forget it. I did it with mine and I drilled a small hole and put a push button switch on the front of the plastic piece that goes around the ignition switch. No more problems and you can barely see the switch

 

I've got a 30Amp toggle that I was contemplating putting in the fairing next to the 12V cig. adapter. This way I don't have to do any funny business when removing my tank for service AND if I decide to actual fork over the dough to replace my ignition switch at some point, I can just re route the wires and use the switch for an ejector seat or something else cool like that.

 

If you lock the steering on it, they are only going to ride in very tight circles even if they do figure out how to start it with the bypass installed.

 

Gary

 

Yeah, I thought of this and it made me chuckle. I can see it now: walking out after work and watching some knucklehead driving in circles trying to get somewhere on my bike.

Again, I realize very very low risk - BUT on a serious note, I was thinking of insurance ramifications for 'theft'. That is in Texas, I believe the law is on the books that if you leave you 'key' in your vehicle and it gets stolen you are not covered the same as if your car gets stolen and the ignition system is compromised by the thief. So my concern would be that IF my bike were to get stolen AND the insurance company figured out that it is due to the fact that I had this by-pass installed, then maybe there may be some complications. Again, I would argue that the damaging of the steering lock mechanism so that they could 'ride off' without the key would be equivalent to any type of 'hot wiring' that would be required otherwise... But it is not up to me to interpret the law.

[flb_78]

Looks like something happened in 2005 and again in 2011 with the switch.

 

1999 - 4XY-82501-00-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2000 - 4XY-82501-00-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2001 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2002 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2003 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2004 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2005 - 4XY-82501-10-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2006 - 4XY-82501-10-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2007 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2008 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2009 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2010 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2011 - 4XY-82501-20-00 $n/a

[LilBeaver]

Looks like something happened in 2005 and again in 2011 with the switch.

 

1999 - 4XY-82501-00-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2000 - 4XY-82501-00-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2001 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2002 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2003 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2004 - 4XY-82501-01-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-02-00 $156.28

2005 - 4XY-82501-10-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2006 - 4XY-82501-10-00 Supersede: 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2007 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2008 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2009 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2010 - 4XY-82501-11-00 $171.36

2011 - 4XY-82501-20-00 $n/a

 

 

Haha - yeah, THE PRICE.

I had noticed that too and a tad curious. Where did you find these prices, by the way?

[flb_78]

Stadium Yamaha but you'd have to pay sale tax.

 

I just ordered a bunch of fork parts and I ordered them from Zanotti Yamaha. They were the best price on my total order with shipping.

 

Zanotti's price

 

4XY-82501-02-00 - $141.99

4XY-82501-11-00 - $171.25

 

I think shipping would be $18.99

[LilBeaver]

Stadium Yamaha but you'd have to pay sale tax.

 

I just ordered a bunch of fork parts and I ordered them from Zanotti Yamaha. They were the best price on my total order with shipping.

 

Zanotti's price

 

4XY-82501-02-00 - $141.99

4XY-82501-11-00 - $171.25

 

I think shipping would be $18.99

 

Looks like another good dealer to bookmark - even with ~$20 shipping.

Thanks!

[BoomerCPO]

I have seen many postings here about the failure of the ignition switch....Mine failed on my 06 Venture back in 2009.

It has been speculated that because the headlight is powered through the switch THAT is the primary cause for the switch failure.... and I believe that to be true.

Squid installed the HID headlight on my scoot last year. He wired it so that the main power for the headlight does NOT come through the ignition switch. Since then I have noticed that the switch DOES NOT heat up as it did with the OEM wiring set-up.....Hopefully this will lead to a longer switch life. I still plan to have the By-pass switch installed just for peace of mind on the road.

Boomer....who sez having a Colt .45 Alarm System is working very well thank you.

[RedRider]

L'B,

 

It sure would be awkward having to ride ***** on the back of a KLR if you broke down during a ride.

 

To answer your first question, there is a connector under the tank that has two conductors running thru it. Red wire and brown/green (IIRC). The connector is light red. This connector is up near the ignition switch next to the two large white connectors (you will see them when you take the tank and ignition shroud off).

 

This connector is also prone to failure.

 

I believe you can take this connector apart, snip off the wiring harness half (vs. the ignition half) and install a couple of female spade terminals. You can then go in and install a relay across those two lines to take the load off the ignition switch.

 

You may find this will alleviate your problem. I have been running around with my ignition being flakey as you have described for about two years. I also had to replace the connector as described above.

 

Just this past weekend, I put in the bypass relay and the ignition switch now doesn't miss a beat. Please keep in mind that I live in WI and there is still lots of snow outside. Therefore all testing has been done in the lab and may or may not reflect actual results in the outside physical world.

 

If you don't have a problem taking off the tank while on the road, find where the bypass switch wires in, split the wires and put protected spade connectors there. Then, if you have ignition switch problems, take off the tank, disconnect the spade terminals, plug in your bypass (which already has preinstalled mating spade terminals), and hit the road.

 

RR

[LilBeaver]

L'B,

 

It sure would be awkward having to ride ***** on the back of a KLR if you broke down during a ride.

 

Haha, yeah... Although something tells me I wouldn't be on THAT one

 

To answer your first question, there is a connector under the tank that has two conductors running thru it. Red wire and brown/green (IIRC). The connector is light red. This connector is up near the ignition switch next to the two large white connectors (you will see them when you take the tank and ignition shroud off).

 

This connector is also prone to failure.

 

I believe you can take this connector apart, snip off the wiring harness half (vs. the ignition half) and install a couple of female spade terminals. You can then go in and install a relay across those two lines to take the load off the ignition switch.

 

You may find this will alleviate your problem. I have been running around with my ignition being flakey as you have described for about two years. I also had to replace the connector as described above.

 

Just this past weekend, I put in the bypass relay and the ignition switch now doesn't miss a beat. Please keep in mind that I live in WI and there is still lots of snow outside. Therefore all testing has been done in the lab and may or may not reflect actual results in the outside physical world.

 

If you don't have a problem taking off the tank while on the road, find where the bypass switch wires in, split the wires and put protected spade connectors there. Then, if you have ignition switch problems, take off the tank, disconnect the spade terminals, plug in your bypass (which already has preinstalled mating spade terminals), and hit the road.

 

RR

Ah-ha. Sounds like a good plan. I recall reading a thread that discussed that particular connector frying (I believe it was an Eck thread) and so I keep a close eye on those and inspect them every time I have the tank off. Originally I wanted to keep the original harness in-tact and just find some way to hook up the bypass, but COMPLETELY bypassing [the load] the ignition switch via a relay sounds like a winner. Sounds like some quality connectors and some practice with the ol soldering iron is in order (certainly do not want any 'iffy/less than ideal' connections there!). I like the idea of having that relay there for removal of the load AND quick access with the bypass switch. I have absolutely no problem pulling off the tank on the side of the road if necessary.

 

Once wired up this way, an extra relay (or two) will definitely be making its way into my tool/spare parts bag - just in case.

 

Thanks!

-----

Just because I like to be thorough, I still think I will pull my ignition switch apart to inspect, clean and repair as necessary...

[SMSgt]

So what we are all saying is put an emergency by pass switch and wire the passing and headlight through a relay. Both great ideas and I will certainly do both. I would mount the by pass switch on the left underside of the fairing so when the bars are locked to the left it would be almost impossible to see the switch much less get to the switch. I would also run this switch through a relay so as to keep it cool.

Now I'll just have to do some thinking and planning and make it happen.

[krispy]

So what we are all saying is put an emergency by pass switch and wire the passing and headlight through a relay. Both great ideas and I will certainly do both. I would mount the by pass switch on the left underside of the fairing so when the bars are locked to the left it would be almost impossible to see the switch much less get to the switch. I would also run this switch through a relay so as to keep it cool.

Now I'll just have to do some thinking and planning and make it happen.

 

I have been working on the bike here the last while as the snow continues to get deeper, and did add the relay for the ignition switch. My thinking is that this one relay will take care of the ignition switch failures that seem to be common on these bikes. The only reason to use additional relays would be so that it might make running wires for accessories simpler, especially if you are trying to use mini- or micro-switches on the handlebars to turn things on and off. Remember that these relays are just electrically thrown switches, and are subject to heat and failure at the contacts just like any other switch. The advantage is that they are readily available at any auto parts store and lots cheaper than a Yamaha ignition switch or fancy chrome micro-switch set.

 

I remember now that I also used a relay when I added my air horn.

 

:2cents: I'll give you 4 cents worth, though it may well be overpriced.

[Rick Haywood]

If you lock the steering on it, they are only going to ride in very tight circles even if they do figure out how to start it with the bypass installed.

 

Gary

 

with my bypass you still have to have the key on for the bike to start. I left the 2 wires on the left side coming off the ignition switch hooked up so without the key on it won't start. Sorta nice this way if they turn on the bypass all it will do is crank.

[Rick Haywood]

So what we are all saying is put an emergency by pass switch and wire the passing and headlight through a relay. Both great ideas and I will certainly do both. I would mount the by pass switch on the left underside of the fairing so when the bars are locked to the left it would be almost impossible to see the switch much less get to the switch. I would also run this switch through a relay so as to keep it cool.

Now I'll just have to do some thinking and planning and make it happen.

 

I used a switch exactly like the switch for the road lights.

[elmicko]

I've tackled a lot of service, repairs and mods on this bike and the 1st Gen that I had and I feel like I've done pretty good. However for some reason, I just can't wrap my head around the fix for this one which really concerns me because I don't want to end up stranded. Can anybody spell out for me (preferably in crayon) exactly what I need to do to permanently install the bypass so I don't have to worry about it anymore. I would prefer to do the version that still requires the key to start the bike.

[RandyR]

I'm wondering if a spray of electrical cleaner into the lock every once in a while might keep the contacts clean and help preclude any arcing from occuring which then damages the circuit.

[dingy]

I've tackled a lot of service, repairs and mods on this bike and the 1st Gen that I had and I feel like I've done pretty good. However for some reason, I just can't wrap my head around the fix for this one which really concerns me because I don't want to end up stranded. Can anybody spell out for me (preferably in crayon) exactly what I need to do to permanently install the bypass so I don't have to worry about it anymore. I would prefer to do the version that still requires the key to start the bike.

 

 

Look at the thread linked next.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43150

Towards the end of the PDF file attached to the first post in this thread is a very detailed explination of the bypassing of the switch while still retaing key start functions.

It is titled RSV switch bypass (close to this)

Gary

[LilBeaver]

with my bypass you still have to have the key on for the bike to start. I left the 2 wires on the left side coming off the ignition switch hooked up so without the key on it won't start. Sorta nice this way if they turn on the bypass all it will do is crank.

 

Curiocity has struck me here: So, what happens when the switch fails and you no longer have continuity in the "ON" position?

 

I had been contemplating wiring up the 'by-pass' to function with the key in the "ACC" position but not the "OFF" position. Relying on the "ON" position seems counterproductive, but maybe I am missing something here...

[dingy]

Attached is a screen capture of thr RSV switch. When the key is in the On position, the switch jumpers the Red, Brown/Black and Brown/Blue wires together through two contacts. One set of contacts is on a fixed switch plate and the other set is on the movable keyed portion. This movable keyed portion is common to all the circuits. In other words, when the key is rotated to the Accy positin, the same moveable contacts are used, but a different set on the fixed switch plate.

 

Generally the Accy current draw will be much less than the On position. So the fixed plate contacts should be OK.

 

If the moveable contacts are damaged both the On & the Accy positions will be effected.

 

But since current draw is less in Accy, it will probably function OK.

 

When the bypass is installed, the Brown/Blue wire coming out of the switch is under much less current draw, since most of current is passing through the bypass relay. Only current needed to operate relay passes through switch for On circuit functions.

 

Gary

[dingy]

Attached are the pertinent pages referencing the RSV switch bypass and also another thread on this site dealing with this.

 

Gary

[wes0778]

Curiocity has struck me here: So, what happens when the switch fails and you no longer have continuity in the "ON" position?

 

I had been contemplating wiring up the 'by-pass' to function with the key in the "ACC" position but not the "OFF" position. Relying on the "ON" position seems counterproductive, but maybe I am missing something here...

 

This is what I have been thinking too. I would wonder about a switched wire feeding the #86 terminal on the relay from the BR/B (acc wire). This would be for "emergency" by-pass. This would also give the security needing the key turned to at least the ACC position before the relay could "hot-wire" the bike.

[dingy]

This is what I have been thinking too. I would wonder about a switched wire feeding the #86 terminal on the relay from the BR/B (acc wire). This would be for "emergency" by-pass. This would also give the security needing the key turned to at least the ACC position before the relay could "hot-wire" the bike.

 

This would be one solution. My concern there would be the point of failure in the stock keyed switch. There are a number of points it could fail and take the Accy side with it.

 

I might prefer to try something that would totally bypass the switch. If you were to locate a switch in a position that required some panel to be removed to get to the switch, this might provide some more security. There is also the option of locating a small, second keyed switch in a hidden spot to bypass the switch. This would very possibly satisfy the concern that there was not a toggle switch only way of starting the bike, at least it did take a key.

 

Attached is one source of these switches. McMaster Carr. The keyed switch would only need one switched contact. This could operate the bypass relay. Trick would be finding a suitable mounting location. Also, I am suggesting the second keyed switch, just as a limited usage, emergency option.

 

Also attached is just the schematic, showing the before & after wiring of the switch, with the keyed switch added.

 

Gary

[Squeeze]

I'd like to say it again ....

 

Why spent Money on a bypass or Backup System if the Solution is so easy ...

 

Take two Relays and fire them Coils with the Leads of the Ingnition Switch. Wire their Main Circuits into the Ignintion Switch Harness and be done with a failing Switch forever ....

 

That's about 30 Bucks Investment and no extra "special" Wiring and hiding a Switch required ...