Gasket list for 1st gen tear down

[dingy]

Attached is a list of gaskets, o-rings and other goodies that I am replacing in 1300 motor. All of the part numbers listed are for an 88 1300. For the most part these will be the same as the 1200. Head gaskets will differ for one. This is not everything that I am replacing, but it is the gaskets & o-rings mainly. Also includes everything in the oil pump galleys. Couple of optional things like the neutral pin on the shifter drum are included.

 

Water bypass joint in heads needs to be removed to pull heads off. These are a pain to get out intact, but the sometimes can be saved.

 

A question was asked in another unrelated thread about the list to fix the transmission in a MKI.

 

This list is assuming heads are removed, case split, & all rubber stuff replaced. Some items are shown as not required or may be reused.

Prices are from partshark.com

 

I did elect to upgrade the shifter segment components as well.

 

There is a complete gasket kit available for the MKI's from Athena. It runs around $220 I think. I didn't go this route due to what I saw of the kit, each component was not individually marked. Some of the o-rings have subtle differences as to where they go.

 

Gary

Edited March 10, 2011 by dingy
modified shifter oin p/n's

[Squeeze]

Thank you Gary :happy34:

[MasterGuns]

And why are you doing this?

[dingy]

And why are you doing this?

 

Doing this as in why did I tear motor down. Not a real good reason, other than trying to see what I can get out of this bikes V4 motor in the way of acceleration.

 

One reason was to put in solid motor mounts from sgn, Easier to do with motor out of frame.

 

Bike was smoking some on acceleration, so I wanted to change valve guide seals. This required motor to be pulled in order to pull heads. While I was in there, I took motor rest of way down so I could have the block machined across the head mating surface. I had .040" removed. This will increase compression/HP (hopefully). There is not enough material on the heads to do the milling. I was told this when I started this, but it is the reason I held off on the order of motor dis-assembly. I wanted to look at the VMax heads that are on bike and see if they had enough material to be milled. It would have been easier to mill heads, but not practical to do. To have the block milled, it needed to be completely stripped. This obviously even included removing head studs.

 

Won't know how much this really helped because I am modifying air intake path at same time. Bike was flat at higher RPM's due to restricted air flow. Going from 34mm carbs to 35mm. Adding VMax air cleaner, K&N filter, and VBoost intake manifolds.

 

I know what my compression readings were last summer, so I will be able to see change to that variable.

 

Gary

Edited March 5, 2011 by dingy
no spell check at work (lunch

[jasonm.]

did you ever EGA the bike? Because a variable load type dyno and EGA will tell you absolutely how the engine is running. A 1mm difference in the carb size may net you some hp. But the EGA is always the way to start. Sounds like you have a lot of free time. The V-Boost set up can make a big difference. But again, the EGA is the ultimate tuning tool.

[dingy]

Did not get it done last year.

 

I have it set up with a guy that Dyno'ed bike at a shootout, but that was RWHP only. He will do full analysis at his shop. I knew bike needed help in airflow area, so I didn't pursue it.

 

When I get done with this, it should be putting out as much as a mildly tuned Vmax. I have 100 more CC's than most Max's and a better TCI. Compression will be better. Exhaust is weak link now, but it is much better than a stock Venture.

 

And, no I don't have a lot of free time anymore. Last year, Yup plenty.

 

Gary

[jasonm.]

The guy I went to. Using the variable dyno...simulates how the bike responds on the road. Unlike a standard dyno which can only tell you full throttle info. Also the OEM head-pipes have ports to sniff each cylinder using the proper adaptor. This makes a big difference VS. a tail pipe sniffer. And is the only accurate way to set the low speed screw to perfection. You can make an adaptor. It's 6mm thread....