What is this part in my oil pan?

[dingy]

I have found what appears to be a tooth off a gear in my oil pan.

 

Very small tooth, but I think it is that due to the profile on the sides. It has equal angles very similar to a gear tooth.

 

I haven't started going through all the possible parts yet, just found it and it is late.

 

Width is about .167" (across beveled faces)

 

About .215" tall

 

One guess is maybe cam tensioner?

 

What else in there a gear this small?

 

Brain is not putting a place to this piece.

 

 

Gary

[gator06]

How about a cam gear tooth?

[Flyinfool]

That looks like a sprocket tooth more so than a gear tooth.

My first guess would be it came from somewhere along the cam chain.

 

Can you get some better closeup pics?

[dingy]

It is a cam gear tooth.

 

Gary

[Keemez]

JB Weld it back on!

 

[Marcarl]

OH Oh now what,,,, need another engine?

[MiCarl]

That seems an odd thing to just have just one break off.

 

I'll be interested to hear why you think it got loose. Inquiring minds want to know.

[Guest Swifty]

...can't tell on which side the break is.

How about a valve cam cap, where the valve covers bolt into?. That's what broke off on my engine.

[BradT]

...That's what broke off on my engine.

 

Didn't overtighten it by chance did yah !

 

Brad

[Squeeze]

Didn't overtighten it by chance did yah !

 

Brad

 

 

You could bet 5 Bucks on this ...:whistling:

[Squeeze]

It is a cam gear tooth.

 

Gary

 

 

So you already found the Gear with the Past missing ?

[dingy]

You could bet 5 Bucks on this ...:whistling:

 

So you already found the Gear with the Past missing ?

 

Yes I did and it cost you $5 US. It was not overtightened, it was over loosened.

 

Unlike Marcarl's recent experience with getting the flywheel to pop off the crankshaft, I had a lot of difficulty getting the bolt out of the crank holding the flywheel on. I did not remove the rotor while motor was still in bike because I wanted to pull heads first and look in there before deciding on next course of action. If I would have pulled it then, I could have locked crank rotation through transmission.

 

When I got to point of pulling rotor only way I could hold crank from rotating was to lock clutch basket down. As I said the bolt was not wanting to come off. 1/2" impact and breaker bar did not work. What I end up doing to break bolt loose was to put an old wrench on it and hit wrench with hammer to impart a shock to bolt to loosen. This worked to free rotor bolt after several attempts. During one of these attempts, the clutch basket tool loosened, allowing the crank to turn when I struck wrench. The camshaft chain was then caught between the crank & case which broke the tooth off the crank.

 

Fortunately, I have a spare crank here that came out of my 1200 that will be used to replace the damaged one. P/N's are the same, which surprised me.

A couple of lesson were learned here. One, don't get frustrated and go overboard (have had to relearn this one more than once). Two, always keep those old parts, never know when they may come in handy.

 

Back to the reference to Marcarls getting his flywheel off. I put the puller on mine, tightened it up, and hit end of puller stud with hammer twice and it came off. Actually, startled me when it popped, my 1200 took a lot more persuasion to come off.

 

Anyways, block is at machine shop getting milled, heads are disassembled getting cleaned today, new valve stem seals going in. Most all of the parts are here to put motor back together. I also got parts to replace the shifter segment while I was at it to prevent that from failing. I shift this thing like a baby, so that would never have been a problem though.

 

Carbs are going to be ready soon, I replaced a lot of parts in these, diaphragms, every replaceable jet, o-ring & gaskets. Dyna jet stage 1 VMax jet kit going in. VBoost is ready. I am going to control it with the Ignitech TCI.

 

I may end up having to get one of the new technology lithium cell batteries in order to be able to put the VMax air box in. Really want that in there, but it to big to work with the standard size battery.

 

Gary

[Pam]

What I have done I the past with snow mobiles, to prevent the crank from turning is to take out a plug, and feed as much rope into the cylender as I can. Once the cylender is full of rope the crank can be turned until the piston tops out on the head. Crank won't turn and doesn't do damage.

 

framk

[Squeeze]

Gary, i didn't bet, i just mentioned BradT could bet 5 Bucks against Swifty .... (remember Swifty's selling out Friendship at 5 US)

 

I'm sorry to see that cost you a Crank Shaft. :crying::crying:

The only fortunate Thing in this is that you a have spare one ...

 

I always hold the Rotor with a long, "flat" 32mm Box End Wrench, which i rest on the Motor Guard Rail or the Table Lift (or the Floor). http://www.industryarea.com/Spanners-and-wrenches-Y2473-S10-catalogue.html

 

I have that Wrench lying around anyway, but to me it's important because i don't want to put any extended Amount of Force or Stress to the Crank Shaft or the Bearings. I allways use a 3 Foot Cheater Bar on 1/2 T-Handle to loosen the Center Bolt and turning the Puller Spindle. Works like Charm without shedding too much Sweat.

 

Regarding the Battery .... I think those light weight high Performance Batteries like Shorai will make their Way, but seeing their Price, it's a Bit too early for those for my Taste. Let somebody else be the Guinea Pig ....

 

There are several other (and proven) Battery Options available. For instance, some locals here run their Maxxes with Hawker SBS-8, works. You could buy Hawker 2 Volt Elements and built your own Battery even with distributed Cells all over the Bike. Here are some Streetfighter Bikes which use this Option, because Space is a rare on those chopped Bikes. Go into a Battery Store and psysically choose a small Battery. I think everything above 10 Ah should be suffice for Day to Day use. Of Course, and you already know that, you can't listen to your Tunes or Radio for a prolonged Time without the Motor running, but that's not your Goal anyway. I run a Panasonic 20 AH AGM Battery in my 1Gen Max. It's the same Size as the a 17 AH Lead Acid Battery and has very good Performance. The 2Gen VMAX Battery is only a 10 AH AGM, and it seems to be quite up to the Job starting this big Engine. I'd have expected more hassle with a Battery that small in this Application.

[jasonm.]

seems like the manual is what is to be followed. It clearly shows using a 32mm open end wrench on the flywheel when removing the flywheel bolt. Mine came out easliy with my 1/2" torque wrench. Sorry to see your problems. FYI, when changing the crank..you MUST use the chart regarding the #'s printed on the crank and elsewhere to use the right sized main bearings...you now need to read the OEM manual.

[dingy]

Bearings are on the way, replaced the mains, rods & balance shaft bearings while I was at it.

 

That was expensive.

 

 

Gary

[Squeeze]

I feel fer ya !!! :crying:

[Squeeze]

.... Mine came out easliy with my 1/2" torque wrench...

 

 

I guess this was an old torque Wrench, because no true Gear Head would use a good Torque Wrench to loosen a Bolt, especially with such an Amount of torque needed.

[jasonm.]

My wrench is rated for 150 ft/lbs. and the bolt is rated far less. It's long like a breaker bar. Plus I did not have a breaker bar at the time. Using a torque wrench to loosen something is not going to do any harm. That's why they click both directions.

[dingy]

That's why they click both directions.

 

 

I don't think so.

 

Why would anyone care what torque a bolt loosened at?

 

Anyway, you wouldn't know, bolt would break loose, either before click, which you wouldn't know rating, or after click, so same scenario.

 

When you are tightening bolt, you stop at click, so you know setting.

 

BTW, they click in both directions for what is called a Left Hand Thread. Google it.

 

 

Gary

[Squeeze]

My wrench is rated for 150 ft/lbs. and the bolt is rated far less. It's long like a breaker bar. Plus I did not have a breaker bar at the time. Using a torque wrench to loosen something is not going to do any harm. That's why they click both directions.

 

Over Torqueing will ruin your Torque Wrench. I'm not smart enough to explain this, never thought about it, but i got first Hand Experience in replacing a nice Mid Size Torque Wrench one of my Workers used as a standard Ratchet. If you read the FM, it will show up somewhere in the Caution Area of the Text ...

[jasonm.]

I don't think you are getting my point. you cannot wreck a torque wrench loosening a bolt that is torqued to 100 ft/lbs. If the wrench is rated at 150. Especially if you set the "clicker" much higher than the expected torque. I have used this wrench to both tighten and loosen lug nuts on my car for 20 years. I have had the calibration checked. None the worse for wear.

[Squeeze]

Of Course, if you put 100 ft.lbs Torque on a Bolt it will take 100ft.lbs plus some extra to loosen the Bolt. It's the "extra" i'm worried about. I've worked a Lot on these, so i can say i know something anout the Job and i'll tell you, the extra can easily be the same Amount as the original Torque was, plus you still might need some extra Punds ...

 

 

 

But if you have had your Wrench checked, everything is fine.

 

 

I'll stick to my Policy which is NOT using a Torque Wrench as Breaker Bar or Wrench. That's why they bring in a nearly "useless" T-Handle in nearly any Wrench-Set. I got Lots of these and if i ever will bend one, i'll say sorry and put another one in my Tool Chest.

[jasonm.]

obviously I would not use the toque wrench on something that I expect to be a major issue to loosen...like a car flywheel bolt. I guess we agree. simply , You cannot hurt a Torque wrench if the fastener is in the specified capable range of the wrench.