DanC Posted February 20, 2011 #1 Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) I just completed my complete motorcycle maintenance getting ready for the summer rides. I adjusted the air shocks on both the rear and front forks using the following tools and they worked great. It is so nice working with such accurate tools. I brought the rear pressure up to 35 lbs and the front shock up to 3lbs. The bike was place on my motorcycle stand prior to adding the air as the manual states. Some folks are saying that there is no pressure difference if the bike is on the side stand or on a motorcycle lift. However I will most always go with the service manual but have devitated several times in my life! ha ha Anyway here is the tools that I used and they worked great/SUPER. I used the pressure pump to put the air in the front shock and took it to about 6 lbs although I only wanted 3 lbs. With the 0 to 15 lbs gage I just removed some air slightly until it reached 3 lbs. Worked great with the low pressure gage. It was hard to tell the low pressure accurately with the 0 to 60 pressure pump. So two gages are required for good results. I use a Harley Progressive pump # 54630-03A, 0 to 60 lbs. and Accugage low pressure gage SX series, 0 to 15 lbs which I bought from BikeBandit.com, part# 24729 (TR-150251). See Photo attached. Hope that this helps someone. DanC Edited February 20, 2011 by DanC photo
Freebird Posted February 20, 2011 #2 Posted February 20, 2011 I use that same 0-60 pump. It works great for the rear shock and my Bushtec trailer. I agree that a lower psi gauge for the front would work better but I usually just keep the front at zero and don't worry about them.
CaptainJoe Posted February 20, 2011 #3 Posted February 20, 2011 Pickinfred ordered a device for him and I that links both front shocks together allowing one to "equally" air up both shocks.
DanC Posted February 20, 2011 Author #4 Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) Pickinfred ordered a device for him and I that links both front shocks together allowing one to "equally" air up both shocks. With the low pressure gage 0-15 its very easy and accurate to get the shocks exacltly the same doing them one at a time. The other idea is also great doing both the same time. Thanks for the input. DanC:cool10: Edited February 20, 2011 by DanC spelling
royalstar09 Posted February 20, 2011 #5 Posted February 20, 2011 Quick question here. By you using the gauge on the front shocks, didnt that completly defeat the purpose of buying a ZERO LOSS pump Just asking but seems to me the little pssssttt when removing the gauge when dealing with 6 lbs to begin with takes you right back to not being 100% even pressures, or knowing exactly what they are. Not being a smart azz just asking. If the front shocks are that sensitive then...........
V7Goose Posted February 20, 2011 #6 Posted February 20, 2011 Quick question here. By you using the gauge on the front shocks, didnt that completly defeat the purpose of buying a ZERO LOSS pump Just asking but seems to me the little pssssttt when removing the gauge when dealing with 6 lbs to begin with takes you right back to not being 100% even pressures, or knowing exactly what they are. Not being a smart azz just asking. If the front shocks are that sensitive then........... The only way to really tell would be to check the air in one fork several times in a row to see of the pressure changed. I personally don't think I would use anything but a zero-loss chuck on the forks, but if I could test the pressure in one fork five times without losing any pressure with that gauge, I might change my mind. I know that at least 50% of the time I check the air in my tires, on the bike, truck or car, I often have to take a couple of stabs at it before I get a quick connection that is completely sealed, and that doesn't make any difference what kind of gauge I am using. Just too prone to error on those forks for me. Goose
DanC Posted February 21, 2011 Author #7 Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) Quick question here. By you using the gauge on the front shocks, didnt that completly defeat the purpose of buying a ZERO LOSS pump Just asking but seems to me the little pssssttt when removing the gauge when dealing with 6 lbs to begin with takes you right back to not being 100% even pressures, or knowing exactly what they are. Not being a smart azz just asking. If the front shocks are that sensitive then........... To answer the question this is what I did/find with the low pressure gage. I pumped the pressure up to about a reading of 5lbs with the progression gage. As you know you can remove that gage without loosing any air. Then I put the 0-15 gage on it making sure that I was lined up on the valve stem. I only wanted 3lbs in the forks. So I read about 5lbs and by pumping or removing the 0-15 gage slightly pulseing it I was able to bring it down to 3 lbs. Worked great. It only removed very slight air, about .3lbs air pressure lost as I would remove the gage each time off the valve stem. So I just walked it down to 3.1 lbs and pull the gage off for the last time. Doing this procedure to the other side makes them the same. And I did recheck it and the two forks were the same. DanC:cool10: Edited February 21, 2011 by DanC spelling
Condor Posted February 22, 2011 #8 Posted February 22, 2011 I have 2 pumps. A 0-30 progressive style pump for the fronts, and a Progressive 0-60 for the rear. Both have no-loss chucks. Works for me....
DanC Posted February 22, 2011 Author #9 Posted February 22, 2011 I have 2 pumps. A 0-30 progressive style pump for the fronts, and a Progressive 0-60 for the rear. Both have no-loss chucks. Works for me.... It must be nice to have "TWO" pumps!! ha ha I am a poor man and have to make do. DanC
Condor Posted February 22, 2011 #10 Posted February 22, 2011 It must be nice to have "TWO" pumps!! ha ha I am a poor man and have to make do. DanC Yea Ebay!!!! I probably have less in the two pumps than most have in just one.... And yep it's nice....
djh3 Posted January 26, 2012 #11 Posted January 26, 2012 Hers a couple of options/ideas I have had over the last couple days. I thought about a special pump for the fronts, but more stuff to store cost etc. So on the gauge front 2 options. I have one of the small digital tire gauges, it will read .5 psi So should cover the low pressure thing. Option 2 I also have a tire gauge that goes to like 60psi and is marked off in pound segments. It is one I had for racing so adjusting pressures precisly etc, the reason I mention this one is it has ableeder valve on it so say you goe to 7lb and want to be @ 5psi you can let it down to that without the guess work. What about a tire inflator that has a gauge on it ? I have a regulator on my air compressor and can turn it down to say 10-12# put this inflator on and you'd know right where you are. Plus when doing tires I think it would be easier too. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/25836/image/4/
Condor Posted January 26, 2012 #12 Posted January 26, 2012 Hers a couple of options/ideas I have had over the last couple days. I thought about a special pump for the fronts, but more stuff to store cost etc. So on the gauge front 2 options. I have one of the small digital tire gauges, it will read .5 psi So should cover the low pressure thing. Option 2 I also have a tire gauge that goes to like 60psi and is marked off in pound segments. It is one I had for racing so adjusting pressures precisly etc, the reason I mention this one is it has ableeder valve on it so say you goe to 7lb and want to be @ 5psi you can let it down to that without the guess work. What about a tire inflator that has a gauge on it ? I have a regulator on my air compressor and can turn it down to say 10-12# put this inflator on and you'd know right where you are. Plus when doing tires I think it would be easier too. No..No.. No.... don't use a compressor to pump up the front forks or rear shocks.... You'll be sorry....... I have two harley style hand pumps stowed in the netting of the trunk. One 0-30 and one 0 to 60. Take up very little room.
djh3 Posted January 27, 2012 #13 Posted January 27, 2012 OK but youll have to splain why if I turn down the inlet pressure to 7lb or so how will it be over inflated? I'm just havin a hard time understaning. Sorry.
V7Goose Posted January 27, 2012 #14 Posted January 27, 2012 'cause the regulator on a compressor is NOT a precision instrument. At the bottom end of the scale, you will be lucky if the 7'b reading is not really 20 lbs. But go ahead, give it a try - hey, it's your bike. Some folks have claimed they pumped the forks up to 40 lbs without blowing the seals Hard for me to believe, but since I won't try it on my own bike, I guess I just have to take their word for it. Goose
djh3 Posted January 27, 2012 #15 Posted January 27, 2012 Just tryin to understand you alls point of view. Sure would be nice if someone still made the crossover deal. I saw a couple links, but when and if they came up they were discontinued. Is there another source for the pump used on the front, or is Harley the only deal?
Condor Posted January 27, 2012 #16 Posted January 27, 2012 OK but youll have to splain why if I turn down the inlet pressure to 7lb or so how will it be over inflated? I'm just havin a hard time understaning. Sorry. If you can dial the PSI in at the compressor, and can keep it exactely the same in both forks, why do you even need a guage....?? Go ahead, give it a try... BTW have you looked up the price of a replacement rear shock yet??
djh3 Posted January 27, 2012 #17 Posted January 27, 2012 Nope, checked the pressure with my digital gauge and it read 45.5. Its rode OK so I figured to leave it alone. Tires were 40 front 40.5 in the rear. Thats taking for granted the gauge is good. Its worked fine for 5yr dont know why it would quit now. Shoot it even reads bar and Kg.
Condor Posted January 27, 2012 #18 Posted January 27, 2012 Nope, checked the pressure with my digital gauge and it read 45.5. Its rode OK so I figured to leave it alone. Tires were 40 front 40.5 in the rear. Thats taking for granted the gauge is good. Its worked fine for 5yr dont know why it would quit now. Shoot it even reads bar and Kg. Good Luck....
warriorhoneybee Posted February 19, 2012 #19 Posted February 19, 2012 guess i don't understand or should i say have a good understanding on how air gauges work.i think it was condor that said he has two progressive pumps,0-30 and 0-60.my question is if the 0-60 is accurate why wouldnt be accurate for the lower pressue? not trying to stir a bunch of s@i*,just trying to get an understanding on the differance in the two.i think it stated they were both zero loss.
warriorhoneybee Posted February 19, 2012 #20 Posted February 19, 2012 just answered my own question,thanks. A 15 psi tire gauge is accurate to ± 0.5 psi from 4 psi to 11 psi and is calibrated to ± 0.25 psi at 7.5 psi. A 30 psi tire gauge is accurate to ± 0.6 psi from 8 psi to 22 psi and is calibrated to ± 0.5 psi at 15 psi. A 60 psi tire gauge is accurate to +/- 1.2 psi from 15 to 45 psi and is calibrated to ± 1 psi at 30 psi. A 100 psi tire gauge is accurate to ± 2 psi from 25 to 75 psi and is calibrated to ± 1.5 psi at 50 psi. A 160 psi tire gauge is accurate to ± 3.2 psi from 40 - 120 and is calibrated to ± 2 psi at 80 psi.
warriorhoneybee Posted February 19, 2012 #21 Posted February 19, 2012 more info.You should select a tire gauge so the typical pressure you will be testing is in the middle of the gauge span. Example: for a typical car tire that runs at 32 psi you would select a 60 psi tire gauge and for a light truck tire that runs at 50 psi a 100 psi tire gauge.
RSTDdog Posted February 19, 2012 #22 Posted February 19, 2012 Zero Loss referes to the way the pump attaches. Alot of air chucks will lose a small amount of air when you remove them. The difference in the pumps I'm guessing is the guage itself and the design may make it easier to access the forks. With respect to gauges, the accuracy is typically rated through about 80% of the sweep. FOr instance if you look at guages generally say on Grainger, a 0-100 psi guage might have an accuracy specification of +/- 1 psi from 10-90 PSI. As a general rule you want to use a gauge that your target measurement is Midscale. So for tires and things between 20 and 40 PSI a 0-60 guage would be ideal. Having the pump with a lower guage of 0-30 makes seeing the incremental changes say from 5-6psi easier and would generally be more accurate for lower pressures than a 0-60 guage would be in the lower range (30 divisions VS 60 divisions). If you wanted to be real anal about measuring the fork pressures a 0-15 psi or 0-10psi low pressure guage would be ideal in combination with a zero loss chuck. On edit: Looks like I type too slow and you answered your own question on the gauge part. RSTDdog
orion2019 Posted February 25, 2012 #24 Posted February 25, 2012 I'm a little off topic but my 83 Venture XVZ12 wont hold front fork air pressure for more than a few minutes and then they bottom out. Is there something to put in the line to seal them or locate the leak. Thanks
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