ken Posted February 13, 2011 #1 Posted February 13, 2011 I seems like everything I do on my 02 RSV I end up with a stuck bolt!! This time it's the back bolt on the right lower. I discovered the left was already damaged after I got that side off. I'm guess the PO had the problems with the bolt on that side. This is one that I some:confused07:how have to get out to change the breather and have acess to the fuse panel. Open to ideas. Right now the bolt just spins either way.
Kirby Posted February 13, 2011 #2 Posted February 13, 2011 If it just spins, then go ahead and get all the others out and pull out on the lower with just a little pressure while at the same time try removing the screw. If it just spins, then it's probably stripped already. Good luck!
ken Posted February 13, 2011 Author #3 Posted February 13, 2011 If it just spins, then go ahead and get all the others out and pull out on the lower with just a little pressure while at the same time try removing the screw. If it just spins, then it's probably stripped already. Good luck! Well it just spins, but it's still in the lower. I tried to pull on the lower and at the same time spin the bolt. The bolt would spin, but it was a no go.
Guest Posted February 13, 2011 #4 Posted February 13, 2011 (edited) Are you talking about the outer/front bolt or the one from the inner panel, by the kick panel? Use pressure as described but not too much. Just enough to put some resistance on the bolt and turn it gently. The previous owner may have over tightned these bolts. They dont need to be tightened that much, just a firm turn. I see you already tried that. Just have some patience and walk away from it if it becomes frustrating rather then force it and break the piece altogether. Edited February 13, 2011 by Ruffy posted a minute too late
V7Goose Posted February 13, 2011 #5 Posted February 13, 2011 Are you talking about the outer/front bolt or the one from the inner panel, by the kick panel? Use pressure as described but not too much. Just enough to put some resistance on the bolt and turn it gently. The previous owner may have over tightned these bolts. They dont need to be tightened that much, just a firm turn. I see you already tried that. Just have some patience and walk away from it if it becomes frustrating rather then force it and break the piece altogether. This IS your best option. Here is what has happened: That nut is in a rubber grommet that just fits into a tab in the plastic. When putting the lowers on it is fairly common for the screw holes to not line up properly (the upper bracket is probably bent). When trying to insert the rear screw, it does not take much pressure to push that rubber grommet out of the hole. So pulling forward on the lower is about the only way to put enough pressure on the grommet/nut to allow you to remove the screw. If all else fails, you may have to drill off the head of the screw. Good luck, Goose
ken Posted February 13, 2011 Author #6 Posted February 13, 2011 Well I got it! I walked away (thanks Ruffy) got a cup of coffee and studied it for a minute. SO here is is what I did. I cut the end off an allen wrech so it was just straight, put it on my drill and spud it on high at the same time to pulling on the lower. No damage to the lower at all unlike the other side from the PO. I'm not sure but when I put her back together is this bolt necessary? Oh ya thanks for the help everyone.
Guest Posted February 13, 2011 #7 Posted February 13, 2011 Yes, the bolt is necessary. Find out what you need to fix it right.
V7Goose Posted February 13, 2011 #8 Posted February 13, 2011 Yes, all three bolts (AND the center lug on the bottom) are very important for retention of the lowers without damage. The two front bolts CANNOT be overtightened (to the point of damage to the fairing) because they tighten down on a metal collar - that means they never apply pressure directly to the plastic. This is not true of the rear bolt, so after you put that rubber grommet/nut back in the tab, just snug that one when you put the lower back on. Now for some information about making sure those bolt holes line up so you do not crack the lower. The mounting bracket for the upper bolt bends quite easily; it is just soft metal connected to the air filter bracket. First, insert the lower lug into the grommet below the radiator. Now insert and just start the lower front bolt. At this point you should be able to slightly shift the lower fairing around to see the rear screw holes lined up correctly. If you have to move the fairing so much that it flexes or bends in any way, stop - you have a problem with the lower mounting bracket being bent. Once you have the lower front bolt in place (but not tight), and the rear bolt started, it is time to check the alignment of the upper front mount. If it is not already properly aligned with the hole in the fairing, stop - do not try to bend or flex the fairing to line it up. Take the fairing back off and bend the bracket as necessary to properly match where the hole was. This will be quite easy to do since the metal is so soft. Now you should never have any trouble putting the fairing on, and it should never develop cracks from being stressed. Goose
bongobobny Posted February 13, 2011 #9 Posted February 13, 2011 Yah! replace the bolt but run a tap thru the threads first before installing the new bolt, or you may end up damaging the new bolt as well as the threads it goes into is probably already damaged...
ken Posted February 13, 2011 Author #10 Posted February 13, 2011 Yah! replace the bolt but run a tap thru the threads first before installing the new bolt, or you may end up damaging the new bolt as well as the threads it goes into is probably already damaged... At this point I'm not sure what I'm going to do. The left side where the bolt would fasten to is completly trashed from the PO. The right side is fine just need a few part. Saw far I've had to cut a bolt on one of the saddle bags, grind off a bold on the inside of the fairing, drill out a bolt on the left rear turn signal and now this one. I'm almost scared to dig in to the rear tire and drive shaft.
bongobobny Posted February 13, 2011 #11 Posted February 13, 2011 Hmmmm, you can still try running a tap thru and hope it cures that, or go to a slightly larger SAE thread but that's a last resort...
CaptainJoe Posted February 13, 2011 #12 Posted February 13, 2011 If the brackets unbolt completely, you could cut or grind old welded nut off and weld or braze a new metric nut on on. Once something is cross threaded it kind of limits your options. Or, you could drill out and tap with next size larger but I would still keep metric if possible..
ken Posted February 13, 2011 Author #13 Posted February 13, 2011 Hmmmm, you can still try running a tap thru and hope it cures that, or go to a slightly larger SAE thread but that's a last resort... It's the inside of the lower that trashed. The plastic bracket that hold the rubber piece is broken and missing. Theres a bunch of glue in there where the po tried to fix it.
V7Goose Posted February 14, 2011 #14 Posted February 14, 2011 It's the inside of the lower that trashed. The plastic bracket that hold the rubber piece is broken and missing. Theres a bunch of glue in there where the po tried to fix it. You are pretty much screwed on that lower. Don't you just love goobers who destroy things and then try to screw an unsuspecting buyer? Sorry to hear that. Most likely you will have to replace that lower. But you might try getting something like Plastex and using the other side as a model to try and rebuild the missing parts. It is possible, but you will need to be good. One other option would be to use sheet metal to build the replacement part and attach it to the inside of the lower with either Plastex, JB Weld or Silicone. You could then either use a Tinnerman nut on the metal piece, or maybe just use a sheet metal screw in place of the original bolt. Goose
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