Leveling unit question

[Burninator]

When I put my 86 Royale on the centre stand and set the front and rear to low, medium or high the compressor pumps the pressure to the correct P.S.I and will hold it without loosing any air. As soon as I switch the key to any other position and back to check the pressure both fron and rear are at zero p.s.i. There is no error message on the display.

 

Is the most likely reason for the sudden loss of air pressure when the keyk is switched off due to a bad solenoid? I have a friend with a spare and we are going to swap them to see what happens.

 

I think that the ability to hold the pressure indefinitely with the key in the accessory position means that there are no plumbing or seal leaks. I hope that it is a solenoid as that will be an easy fix.

 

Has anyone out there had a similar experience?

[SilvrT]

I don't think you're losing air....are you? When you switch the key, the display just zero's out coz it's not set at either front or rear. Just press the appropriate button to see what you got. Well, I'm sitting here at work and I think that's how that goes.... I never really thought much of it so kinda going from what my "memory" serves.

[safetyguy]

I kind of have the same problem - about 50% of the time. The system pressurizes fine in the ACC position and holds the set pressure in the Front and in the Rear. When the key gets switched OFF and then to ON, I hear the solenoid release the air. The pressure in the front goes to 0. The back holds the set pressure just fine. I don't remember this being a problem until I changed the fork seals last spring but then again the CLASS system has always been quirky.

 

I'm not sure if the problem is in the board, the solenoid, or wiring somewhere. Any ideas would be appreciated!

 

I did resolder all the joints on the CLASS board and it didn't seem to help. (It did get rid of the error codes however). I probably will redo them all again in the spring and see if it makes a difference.

 

I wish there was a simple and cost effective way to bypass the CLASS electronics and update the system with something from the 21st century. It is a bad design that doesn't hold up well with road vibration and the like.

[hipshot]

chris.

on my 86, the pressure holds, until i elect to change it, key on acc., start, or off!

when i let the bike sit for a few days, and start it up, the pressure builds up to whatever it was set at, to replace what might have leaked out.

if yours is different, then MINE must be screwed up.

just jt

[Burninator]

I appreciate the help that I have been getting from other members and wanst to update you on my leveling unit diagnosis.

 

I put power directly to each of the three solenoids and found that they function normally. The fact that the two solenoids for the front and back suspension don't open at the command from the controller tells me that I have an electrical problem. My next step will be to follow the procedure in the service manual for testing the controller and wiring. That should pin down the culprit.

 

My conclusion is that the air has never gotten past the solenoid manifold to the shocks so I have never been putting air into them as required.

 

I'll keep you posted.

[Gearhead]

Burn,

 

When you switch the key back to ACC, do you push the front or rear button? When I put the key in ACC, the CLASS comes on but reads 0. I have to push the front or rear button to get a reading. I believe this is normal behavior. If you are pushing the front or rear button and it still reads 0, that is a problem.

 

Here's one way you should be able to tell if air is actually getting in to the shocks. Don't put the bike on the centerstand. Yes, that's normally the right way to do it, but for this test leave it on its wheels and straddle it. Turn the key to ACC and pump up the front suspension from 0 to max. You should notice the front end rise. Do the same for the rear. If you notice no change in ride height, air is not getting into your shocks.

 

Jeremy

[mraf]

Trust me it is all in your class keyboard. Take it apart and look real hard {Like with an magnifying eyepiece} at the soldering on it. It doesn't take much of a break in the solder to make this thing not work right. Reasolder it again and try it.

[Rocket]

Burn,

 

When you switch the key back to ACC, do you push the front or rear button? When I put the key in ACC, the CLASS comes on but reads 0. I have to push the front or rear button to get a reading. I believe this is normal behavior. If you are pushing the front or rear button and it still reads 0, that is a problem.

 

Jeremy

 

Gearhead, yours is working normally.

 

The class system pressure, can only adjusted while key is in the ACC position. I added this portion, for the benefit of other readers.

[Guest Popeye]

Burn,

 

...When I put the key in ACC, the CLASS comes on but reads 0. I have to push the front or rear button to get a reading. I believe this is normal behavior. If you are pushing the front or rear button and it still reads 0, that is a problem.

 

Here's one way you should be able to tell if air is actually getting in to the shocks. Don't put the bike on the centerstand. Yes, that's normally the right way to do it, but for this test leave it on its wheels and straddle it. Turn the key to ACC and pump up the front suspension from 0 to max. You should notice the front end rise. Do the same for the rear. If you notice no change in ride height, air is not getting into your shocks.Jeremy

 

This is how mine works.

We usually go 2up so, front is ~22psi & rear ~72psi, not using stands....I use 'manual' option of setting instead of 'auto'.

 

Front or Rear from Low to High setting is impossible to miss while straddled.

[Big Daddy]

Hey there burn a tater! I have the solution. 83 Standard! Preferably black! Glad to see your playin with your new scooter! She's a real bee-u-ty! See ya in WV!