worn out rear pads

[Rockdoc]

Ok, yes its poor mainentance, but I've just got the old brake pads out from the rear wheel to find the left one is metal on metal, Ouch, right one is not much better. The caliper pistons are reluctant to go back and the repair kit here in the UK is crazy money. I have'nt tried really hard to get them back as I will need to clean them first. Anyone got any ideas?

[Zane]

Hey Doc,

When I did mine on my MK ll, I used a pair of vice grips and slowly squeezed them back in. You may have to polish them with some emory paper, but they should go back in for a quick fix. Get ahold of Skydoc_17 (Earl Harrell) here in the states. He can hook you up. Dunno about his prices international wise, but it might be worth a shot. He also rebuilds the things too. He may not do it right now cause he had surgery, but maybe can send you the parts.

Good luck.

 

Here's his ad in the classifieds...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2445&title=2nd-gen1996-2010-r1-caliper-swap-and-s-sbrake-lines-21&cat=22

Edited February 1, 2011 by Zane

[V7Goose]

Ok, yes its poor mainentance, but I've just got the old brake pads out from the rear wheel to find the left one is metal on metal, Ouch, right one is not much better. The caliper pistons are reluctant to go back and the repair kit here in the UK is crazy money. I have'nt tried really hard to get them back as I will need to clean them first. Anyone got any ideas?

In most cases you should not need any "repair kit" for the calipers. But be aware it is quite easy to cock the piston in the bore and bind it up. If you keep pushing on it in that state, you can damage the bore. For that reason I am reluctant to use c-clamps on these brakes. I find that almost always I can retract the pistons by steady pressure with both thumbs - one on each side of the piston.

 

But if it really won't move, you can use a c-clamp IF you put one of the old pads back in on top of the pistons and make sure the clamp is centered on the pad. This will generally keep them straight. But if you see one piston going back a bit and the other one not moving, you will have to carefully look at it to try and detect which way it is cocked, then gently use the clamp in the right places to get it to pop back straight.

Goose

[Rockdoc]

Thanks V7Goose for that info, your not gonna want to hear this, But I sold my beloved Guzzi Cali2 to get my Venture. Anyway back the brakes. This is going to be a silly question but if the caliper is still on the bike, apart from taking off the cover and boot from the master cylinder, is there a release valve I can loosen before I try and press the pistons back in?

Cheers

[Sylvester]

Thanks V7Goose for that info, your not gonna want to hear this, But I sold my beloved Guzzi Cali2 to get my Venture. Anyway back the brakes. This is going to be a silly question but if the caliper is still on the bike, apart from taking off the cover and boot from the master cylinder, is there a release valve I can loosen before I try and press the pistons back in?

Cheers

 

No, the fluid just backs up into the resevoir. Then when you install the new pads and re-position the calipers on the rotor, pump the brakes a few times to reseat the new pads. Then check your fluid level.

 

[V7Goose]

Although it is possible to change the rear pads with the caliper in place, don't try to do it. There is too much risk you can damage the rotor while trying to get the pistons retracted.

 

The caliper is only held on by two bolts, so just remove it to make the work easy. But do not remove the brake line. As Sylvester already said, the fluid will just get pushed back into the master cylinder (that is why you should never add fluid between pad changes - unless there is a leak it will never be too low, and if you do add it, you will overflow the master when you change pads). The cap is vented and there is a flexible rubber boot on top of the fluid, so that is why you do not need to take the cap off.

 

If you haven't changed the brake fluid in the past two years, this is a good time to do that too, but just make sure to put the new pads in and pump the brake up to pressure once before you change the fluid so you will get the right level. If you do it right, there won't even be any need to bleed the brakes since no air will be introduced during the process. Just do not loosen any of the brake line connections, and do not even take to cap off the master cylinder unless you are changing the fluid.

Goose

Edited February 1, 2011 by V7Goose