2000 RSV with 35,000- what to do?

[Sandbagger]

I bought a 2000 RSV last year. Currently have 35,000.

Little overwhelmed from going through the maint book on what I am "supposed" to do.

Planning on changing oil, filer, final gear oil, spark plugs, brake pads and I need a near tire so I will lube up the spline also and fuel filter. Carb tune was done last year (thanks Squidley) but I guess that should be done again if I have the valves adjusted which I am assuming hasn't ever happened.

Based on records, brake pads, brake fluid, coolant and final drive oil was changed at 15,000.

Quite overwhelmed with the other things the book tells me to do where I am completely clueless including the following.

Engine Oil Pressure Test

Repacking Swing are bearings

Repack wheel bearings

Valve clearance

Fork oil change

replace brake hoses

brake fluid and cluth fluid (just confused on this one. If it ain't broke why do I fix it?)

 

Most important thing to me is safety. The next most important is reliability and the last thing is the bikes longevity.

 

What really needs to be done and what doesn't on a 10 year old 35,000 RSV?

 

Thanks,

Bob

[kj5ix]

Its wore out,,, You should put it out to pasture before it falls over. I have a decent corral of about 1.5 acre's here, with all the fresh grazing. When this ice storm moves away maybe. I will come get it if you pay the gas, and put it out in the corral here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What!!!!!!!!

[Hummingbird]

didja ever read the maintenance schedule for your car or truck ?

 

didja follow EVERY schedule ?

 

nuff said -

[MidlifeVenture]

The clutch and brake fluid thing surprised me too until I saw how nasty brown the oil in some of the lines were, then I had to do it on my sons truck when the clutch only engaged an inch from the floor. Maintenance day taught me a lesson there:thumbsup:

[RedRider]

Change the clutch and brake fluid? Good idea to do that every other year or so. Speedbleeders make that job really easy.

 

Change brake lines? Naaah. Unless you want to upgrade to stainless steel lines. Otherwise, don't bother.

 

Swing arm bearings? Maybe, but this is a difficult job. Most have opened them up and found the lube was fine.

 

Change fork oil? Probably a good idea. I need to do this (and install Progressive springs).

 

Repack wheel bearings? I will defer to others on this one. Thought the bearings were sealed ball bearings and are lubed for life. Could be wrong on this one.

 

Valve clearance? Good idea to have this done since the down side is really expensive (burned valve). Find someone with the tool and shim kit, find a friend, and get it done.

 

Engine Oil pressure test? That's done every time you ride. Does it leak? Does it burn oil? Never heard of anyone ever doing this test.

 

Which 2000 do you have? The pretty MM or the faster Salsa Red?

 

RR

[Dave77459]

didja ever read the maintenance schedule for your car or truck ?

 

didja follow EVERY schedule ?

 

nuff said -

Um, yes?

[steamer]

Just do what I did.start at one end,do a couple things at a time,like the rear wheel and brakes one rainy day,then the front wheel on another rainy day,until you finish your list.Then start over.

[RandyR]

when you do your valve clearances you should get some oil flowinging up as you turn the engine over with a wrench. That should let you know the oil pump is working.

[V7Goose]

I bought a 2000 RSV last year. Currently have 35,000.

Little overwhelmed from going through the maint book on what I am "supposed" to do.

Planning on changing oil, filer, final gear oil, spark plugs, brake pads and I need a near tire so I will lube up the spline also and fuel filter. Carb tune was done last year (thanks Squidley) but I guess that should be done again if I have the valves adjusted which I am assuming hasn't ever happened.

Based on records, brake pads, brake fluid, coolant and final drive oil was changed at 15,000.

Quite overwhelmed with the other things the book tells me to do where I am completely clueless including the following.

Engine Oil Pressure Test

Repacking Swing are bearings

Repack wheel bearings

Valve clearance

Fork oil change

replace brake hoses

brake fluid and cluth fluid (just confused on this one. If it ain't broke why do I fix it?)

 

Most important thing to me is safety. The next most important is reliability and the last thing is the bikes longevity.

 

What really needs to be done and what doesn't on a 10 year old 35,000 RSV?

 

Thanks,

Bob

Suggesting that you can or should just ignore service items, as someone did above, is just REALLY bad advice. Everything on the service schedule is there for a reason and will contribute in some way to the longevity of the vehicle or the safety to you and others. But it is true that they are not all of equal importance, so it does make sense to prioritize them to make sure the most critical ones are done first if you cannot work through them all at the same time or when scheduled.

 

A 10 year old machine with only 35,000 miles has done a lot of sitting and rotting over the years, and this is really hard on a machine. Brakes are one of the most important safety systems, but I do not believe the pads suffer in any way from age, so just inspect them and make sure they are not worn too much - no reason to replace them prematurely. However, it is critical to replace the fluids in the bike, ALL of them, especially the brake and clutch fluids. If you do need to replace brake pads, do this BEFORE you replace the fluid so that you do not risk overfilling the master cylinder when you retract the pistons.

 

Rubber brake lines do deteriorate with age, and this usually makes the brakes feel more spongy than normal. It certainly would be good to replace them on a ten year old machine, but probably not critical. The RSV rear brake is a bit touchy anyway, so a little sponginess from old lines probably won't be noticed. But if the brakes feel anything but EXCELLENT after you replace the fluid (and you are sure they are bled correctly), then you should replace all the rubber seals in the master and slave cylinders (the schedule for that is every two years, so they are way overdue anyway).

 

Repacking the steering and swingarm bearings are big jobs, but they are usually not considered critical, so if there is no indication of a problem with either, you can probably wait until you can find someone to help you with those. However, you must check the steering bearings for proper adjustment. This is very easy to do and is shown in the owner's manual. If they are loose, the adjustment is covered in the tech library and many older threads on this forum.

 

These wheel bearings do not need to be repacked - if they turn smoothly, they are fine, else replace. An oil pressure test is always an excellent idea, especially on a vehicle that is new to you. It is very simple to do if you have a gauge, but you will have to make an adapter for the huge plug in the oil gallery. This is simple and is covered in the gauges article in the tech library; it does not require anything special except a drill and a 1/4" NPT tap. The test does require the engine to be fully up to temperature, and you will need a tach.

 

Just about everything else in the scheduled maintenance is pretty simple, so there shouldn't be any problem working through them. If you have any questions about specific tasks, just ask in the forum or feel free to give me a call - we'll get you through it!

Goose

[1joeranger]

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time!

 

Several of us actually enjoy the maintenance requirements. For me I become more knowledgeable as I work on the bike and I become more intimate with the working of what I am riding. I consider it a hobby were I can get away from the worries of the world and find joy with just puttering around the bike. Lastly I like knowing that I have something running as optimally as I can possibly have it!

[Sandbagger]

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time!

 

Several of us actually enjoy the maintenance requirements. For me I become more knowledgeable as I work on the bike and I become more intimate with the working of what I am riding. I consider it a hobby were I can get away from the worries of the world and find joy with just puttering around the bike. Lastly I like knowing that I have something running as optimally as I can possibly have it!

 

I enjoy the work to a degree as well. My challenge is my ignorance. I am 48 and I don't have a history of mechanical work. Never worked on cars etc. Everything is new. I am a visual learner so it is difficult to takes words (especially the manuals) and figure out what I need to do. I have come to respect people that own these bikes. I realize that if there is a Yamaha touring type bike going down the road then that biker actually works on his/her bike because the dealers are not interested. I couldn't own this bike without this web site and the people on it.

Thanks,

Bob

[skydoc_17]

Hey Bob,

Your fears are perfectly normal. The fact that you have admitted your limitations is half the battle! V7Goose has broken it down very nicely. There isn't ANYTHING that should be ignored on your bike as far as maintenance goes, but if you use the list of things that are important to YOU, (Safety, function, comfort, etc.) to get your maintenance items in order, then all will be well. My second suggestion is to get out and RIDE! Attend a Meet-N-Eat, make some contacts. Go to a local Maint. Day, let the VR.ORG members help you work thru your Maint. List. The mear fact that you will not be paying for dealer labor charges means that you will save a TON of money! And you might accidentally enjoy yourself and make a few new friends!

Try pushing the envelope of your "Comfort Zone." If a knowledgeable VR.ORG member like V7Goose (or many others) offers you an opportunity to contact him with your Maint. questions, make the effort to get in touch with him. It will be time well spent. I have found that this forum is not only about just learning how to Maint. our bikes but the sharing of our love for these wonderful machines, and the actual riding of them. Lastly, if you are just going to let your scoot sit in the garage for fear of "wearing something out", then you might as well own a Harley!

Earl

[Sandbagger]

Suggesting that you can or should just ignore service items, as someone did above, is just REALLY bad advice. Everything on the service schedule is there for a reason and will contribute in some way to the longevity of the vehicle or the safety to you and others. But it is true that they are not all of equal importance, so it does make sense to prioritize them to make sure the most critical ones are done first if you cannot work through them all at the same time or when scheduled.

 

A 10 year old machine with only 35,000 miles has done a lot of sitting and rotting over the years, and this is really hard on a machine. Brakes are one of the most important safety systems, but I do not believe the pads suffer in any way from age, so just inspect them and make sure they are not worn too much - no reason to replace them prematurely. However, it is critical to replace the fluids in the bike, ALL of them, especially the brake and clutch fluids. If you do need to replace brake pads, do this BEFORE you replace the fluid so that you do not risk overfilling the master cylinder when you retract the pistons.

 

Rubber brake lines do deteriorate with age, and this usually makes the brakes feel more spongy than normal. It certainly would be good to replace them on a ten year old machine, but probably not critical. The RSV rear brake is a bit touchy anyway, so a little sponginess from old lines probably won't be noticed. But if the brakes feel anything but EXCELLENT after you replace the fluid (and you are sure they are bled correctly), then you should replace all the rubber seals in the master and slave cylinders (the schedule for that is every two years, so they are way overdue anyway).

 

Repacking the steering and swingarm bearings are big jobs, but they are usually not considered critical, so if there is no indication of a problem with either, you can probably wait until you can find someone to help you with those. However, you must check the steering bearings for proper adjustment. This is very easy to do and is shown in the owner's manual. If they are loose, the adjustment is covered in the tech library and many older threads on this forum.

 

These wheel bearings do not need to be repacked - if they turn smoothly, they are fine, else replace. An oil pressure test is always an excellent idea, especially on a vehicle that is new to you. It is very simple to do if you have a gauge, but you will have to make an adapter for the huge plug in the oil gallery. This is simple and is covered in the gauges article in the tech library; it does not require anything special except a drill and a 1/4" NPT tap. The test does require the engine to be fully up to temperature, and you will need a tach.

 

Just about everything else in the scheduled maintenance is pretty simple, so there shouldn't be any problem working through them. If you have any questions about specific tasks, just ask in the forum or feel free to give me a call - we'll get you through it!

Goose

 

 

Goose,

Thanks for the reply. I hope to be able to take care of my bike someday like you take care of yours. I know better than to ever think that I will understand why I am doing the things I do to my bike, but I am ok with just knowing how and when to do the work on this bike. I am grateful for yours and others help.

You threw me a curve when you said that all the rubber seals in the master and slave cylinders needed to be replaced every 2 years. It concerns me because I have not read that in the standard maint book or the Clymer book. I'm wondering if there is another set of "need to do's" that I'm missing or if it tribal knowledge.

If this statement is from your experience that is good enough for me. Sure they have not been changed before. I would like to know if there is another list of to'do's that is somewhere else other than the book. Also, is there some kit available for these parts that you know of or how does a person know what is rubber and what is not? The book doesn't point out if something is rubber or not.

Thank you for your help and time.

Bob

[Mariner Fan]

Why do you need to change the brake and clutch fluids?

 

Now I am going to have this done along with checking the brake pads. I have around 22,000 miles on it now.

 

I think about my pickup that has 140,000 miles and has never had the brake fluid changed. Still stops pretty good.

[Sandbagger]

Hey Bob,

Your fears are perfectly normal. The fact that you have admitted your limitations is half the battle! V7Goose has broken it down very nicely. There isn't ANYTHING that should be ignored on your bike as far as maintenance goes, but if you use the list of things that are important to YOU, (Safety, function, comfort, etc.) to get your maintenance items in order, then all will be well. My second suggestion is to get out and RIDE! Attend a Meet-N-Eat, make some contacts. Go to a local Maint. Day, let the VR.ORG members help you work thru your Maint. List. The mear fact that you will not be paying for dealer labor charges means that you will save a TON of money! And you might accidentally enjoy yourself and make a few new friends!

Try pushing the envelope of your "Comfort Zone." If a knowledgeable VR.ORG member like V7Goose (or many others) offers you an opportunity to contact him with your Maint. questions, make the effort to get in touch with him. It will be time well spent. I have found that this forum is not only about just learning how to Maint. our bikes but the sharing of our love for these wonderful machines, and the actual riding of them. Lastly, if you are just going to let your scoot sit in the garage for fear of "wearing something out", then you might as well own a Harley!

Earl

 

 

Earl,

 

Was just thinking about you when I made my post to Goose. Thanks for your comments and support. I used quite a few of your upgrades when I bought my Gen 1 2 years ago. Got hooked quickly and bought a 2000 for various reasons. Actually went to main day at Don's last year and had hoped to meet you, but think you had some health issues at that time. Sounds like you are doing better. Goose had mentioned replacing the rubber parts on the master and slave cylinders every 2 years. Having a heck of a time looking at the book and figuring out what is rubber and needs to be replaced. I smell a kit in the works from you.

 

Take care and thanks for your input, your support and all your work that you do for others.

Bob

[V7Goose]

Goose,

You threw me a curve when you said that all the rubber seals in the master and slave cylinders needed to be replaced every 2 years. It concerns me because I have not read that in the standard maint book or the Clymer book. I'm wondering if there is another set of "need to do's" that I'm missing or if it tribal knowledge.

If this statement is from your experience that is good enough for me. Sure they have not been changed before. I would like to know if there is another list of to'do's that is somewhere else other than the book. Also, is there some kit available for these parts that you know of or how does a person know what is rubber and what is not? The book doesn't point out if something is rubber or not.

Thank you for your help and time.

Bob

There is a note at the end of the periodic maintenance chart that states this requirement. At least the note is in the 2005 and newer owner's manuals - I cannot say for certain it is in yours; there are changes in the owner's manual every year. In fact, the oil change schedule for the first couple of years was every 8,000 miles, but then it was changed to every 4,000 miles (I'd suggest you use the 4K interval).

 

The rubber parts are seals and o-rings, these are all the parts you would get with a cylinder rebuild kit - cannot swear they sell a kit for this bike, but they should. Even though the manual does say to replace them every two years, almost nobody does it as long as the brakes are working fine. Not saying you should skip this, just telling you why you don't see much talk about it. I particularly wanted you to focus quickly on a master and slave cylinder rebuild very quickly if you notice anything strange at all about your brakes, especially since your bike has done so much sitting, as that destroys those seals much faster than regular use. But even if everything seems fine, it would still be an excellent idea. Then keep your fluid changed regularly and ride a lot to keep the new seals fresh!

Goose

[Seaking]

Why do you need to change the brake and clutch fluids?

 

Now I am going to have this done along with checking the brake pads. I have around 22,000 miles on it now. I think about my pickup that has 140,000 miles and has never had the brake fluid changed. Still stops pretty good.

 

The braking system on the bike is more susceptible to heat and moisture.. hence why you look at your clutch and brake reservoir, the fluid can look rather black after a while, instead of amber. Flushing out the brake and clutch system each year isn't a hard job to do, and with speed bleeders you can easily do it one man.. Its funny but it wasn't until I got this RSV that I actually took more care over bike's brake fluid.. the 05 VStar went two years without much done to the brake fluids, till this winter.. black..wow. Nice clean amber now.

 

Goose pointed out a good list of what to look for and such.. Good advice indeed.

 

Though my bike is an 06, I have 80,000 miles on it.. 60,000 I put on since I bought it used in 08.. and the bike has gotten a lot of TLC over the past year.. Its a lot of work but man I need something to keep me busy during the snowy months up here..

 

How many more months till riding seasons starts again?!!

[V7Goose]

Why do you need to change the brake and clutch fluids?

 

Now I am going to have this done along with checking the brake pads. I have around 22,000 miles on it now.

 

I think about my pickup that has 140,000 miles and has never had the brake fluid changed. Still stops pretty good.

Brake fluid (all types except DOT5) is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and absorbs moisture from the air. This moisture does two very bad things - it causes corrosion inside the brake system, and it boils from brake heat, sometimes causing total loss of brakes.

A note of caution here - NEVER NEVER

mix DOT5 fluid with DOT3 or DOT4! DOT3 and DOT4 are compatible, but DOT4 has a higher boiling temperature, and our bikes specify DOT4, so that is the only fluid you should use.

The more water the fluid has absorbed, the browner it gets. Also note that the little sight windows in the master cylinders are only letting you see through a VERY thin layer of fluid (less than 1/8"), so if you can detect any brown color there at all, your fluid is VERY bad. Fresh fluid is a very pale tint, almost totally clear.

 

The fluid can absorb moisture because the brake system is not a sealed system - the master cylinder must be vented to allow the fluid to move in and out of it during normal brake operation. Generally the clutch fluid turns brown much faster than the brake fluid simply because it is operated MUCH more frequently, this it is constantly sucking small amounts of moist air into the master cylinder. The rubber boot that sits on top of the fluid in the reservoir provides some protection from this moisture, but not complete. And old rubber brake lines also allow some moisture to enter.

 

Fluids should be changed in cars and trucks too, but I won't embarrass myself by telling you when the last time I changed it on my 1994 F250! The bottom line for me is that the bike has fewer brakes, and the result of a brake problem is probably going to be much more catastrophic, so I don't let this bit of maintenance slide too long on a bike. And besides, changing the fluid is very easy and quick with nothing more than a hand operated vacuum pump. Just be careful to not let any fluid get on your paint.

Goose

[saddlebum]

I say stick to your basics, changing fluids as needed and keeping an eye on your bike overall condition. For the rest if it ain't broke don't fix it. A lot of maint schedules are there simply so that companys can use them to get out of warranty claims by claiming you did not perform proper maint.

[Sylvester]

My 02 RSMV is over nine years old now with 135,000 miles. My next maintenance before spring includes changing out all radiator hoses, radiator cap, thermo sensors, thermostat, o-rings, copper gaskets and anything else related to the cooling system.

 

[1joeranger]

I enjoy the work to a degree as well. My challenge is my ignorance. I am 48 and I don't have a history of mechanical work. Never worked on cars etc. Everything is new. I am a visual learner so it is difficult to takes words (especially the manuals) and figure out what I need to do. I have come to respect people that own these bikes. I realize that if there is a Yamaha touring type bike going down the road then that biker actually works on his/her bike because the dealers are not interested. I couldn't own this bike without this web site and the people on it.

Thanks,

Bob

 

Yhea, I can definitely relate on the ignorance part!!

 

• Earl ,skydoc17, helped me with a new clutch upgrade
  
• Rick, Rick Butler, held my hand while I installed new springs
  
• Ken, V7Goose, put up with me while setting my pilot screws and syncing my carbs at Don's Maint Day
  
• Don, "gunboat", gave me a center stand and David, "Conch", put it together
  

Because of these guys and others on this website, who share their valuable time and post pictures, I get to play wannabe mc mechanic and push the envelope! My confidence improves each time I do something I have never done before, such as a carb sync! So all I can say is Jump In, the water is deep!!! And while I am at it, THANKS ALL OF YOU!!!

[Bobby G]

Why do you need to change the brake and clutch fluids?

 

Now I am going to have this done along with checking the brake pads. I have around 22,000 miles on it now.

 

I think about my pickup that has 140,000 miles and has never had the brake fluid changed. Still stops pretty good.

 

Just throwing my 2 cents on this one, as I had a serious clutch safety issue last summer while on a very long ride to south Florida. I had not changed out my clutch fluid since owning my RSV, and after 14 hours of riding in 95+ degree heat last August, the fluid boiled and I lost the clutch. Was able to get the fluid bled and replaced on site, and the ride home was much happier and safer. I strongly suggest that if it's anything but nearly clear in color, change it out (DOT 5.1). Everything else that Goose recommends, I second.

[Sandbagger]

Just throwing my 2 cents on this one, as I had a serious clutch safety issue last summer while on a very long ride to south Florida. I had not changed out my clutch fluid since owning my RSV, and after 14 hours of riding in 95+ degree heat last August, the fluid boiled and I lost the clutch. Was able to get the fluid bled and replaced on site, and the ride home was much happier and safer. I strongly suggest that if it's anything but nearly clear in color, change it out (DOT 5.1). Everything else that Goose recommends, I second.

 

 

Bobby,

 

That was a great post for me. I never thought about it from a safety issue but I sure do now.

 

Bob