Trailer Light Question

[Condor]

I've read about a couple of different places to splice in the trailer light pig-tail, but I still have one question. What do you use to do the splice. Those squeeze together quick splices, or bare wires with a heat shrink tubing cover?? I have a 5 wire on the trailer to match what's on the bike so I think a plug and play is out if anyone even makes one...

[SilvrT]

I used the squeeze connectors. I tied into the stock wiring just under the seat, near the battery and ran the wires to the rear in a wire loom.

[Freebird]

Well, I just hate the squeeze connectors. I've just seen too many that lost connection. I strip, wrap, solder and either heat shrink or tape.

[Snaggletooth]

I found a neat lil item for making connections. I'm not a fan of the crimp connectors at all and prefer to splice, solder and shrink tube connections but I found these to work out pretty well. I carry a handful in my tool kit on the bike for emergency repairs but I had a few on the bike that are holding up very well after a full season.

 

They come in several gauges and configurations for up to 8 wires I think. I just give them a shot of dielectric grease and plug in the wires. Smaller than a Scotch-Lock and better protection of the connection.

 

Ace is the place.

 

[SilvrT]

I found a neat lil item for making connections. I'm not a fan of the crimp connectors at all and prefer to splice, solder and shrink tube connections but I found these to work out pretty well. I carry a handful in my tool kit on the bike for emergency repairs but I had a few on the bike that are holding up very well after a full season.

 

They come in several gauges and configurations for up to 8 wires I think. I just give them a shot of dielectric grease and plug in the wires. Smaller than a Scotch-Lock and better protection of the connection.

 

Ace is the place.

 

 

Those blue connectors in your pics are the one's I used. Contrary to Freebird's experience, I have never had problems with these or any other type of crimping connector and I've used them many, many times over the past 40+ years. Granted, a soldered connection is by far the best but if you don't have the time, space, equipment, or knowledge or are simply in a hurry or for whatever reason, crimp connectors work if done properly and the right sizes are used IMHO.

[Freebird]

Those are interesting but I still think I would rather solder. I can see that those are for connecting two wires though, we need to add a third wire. I guess they make a 3 wire model also?

[Freebird]

Those blue connectors in your pics are the one's I used. Contrary to Freebird's experience, I have never had problems with these or any other type of crimping connector and I've used them many, many times over the past 40+ years. Granted, a soldered connection is by far the best but if you don't have the time, space, equipment, or knowledge or are simply in a hurry or for whatever reason, crimp connectors work if done properly and the right sizes are used IMHO.

 

Hey, I have no problem at all with crimp connectors. I was an electrician for many years and have used crimp connectors on wires and cables of all sizes. Including hydraulic crimp terminals of 6900 volt 3-phase motor leads. It's the those scotch connectors like the blue ones shown that I don't like. I have had them fail.

[Snaggletooth]

Yep, up to 8 wires.

[SilvrT]

Hey, I have no problem at all with crimp connectors. I was an electrician for many years and have used crimp connectors on wires and cables of all sizes. Including hydraulic crimp terminals of 6900 volt 3-phase motor leads. It's the those scotch connectors like the blue ones shown that I don't like. I have had them fail.

 

My apologies for generalizing. Yes, those "blue ones" can be a problem if not properly "crimped" and are left open (as in dangling) where movement of the wires is possible. I always wrap them real good with tape which prevents any wire movement.

 

Having said that, I am not suggesting to anyone to NOT solder their wiring joints. If a person wants to do that, by all means... do it. I do it in some situations too.

[BOO]

Yep soldering is the best

That was the biggest problem with the 6 volt systems on the old BSA's and Triumph's etc.

6 volt system and then have a little voltage drop across the mechanical connections, next thing you know you're dead along the road.

Some of the connectors are pretty good though especially if you squeeze a little dielectric on it.

BOO

[Flyinfool]

FWIW

In applications that require the most extreme reliability for the military, things like control or flight functions on aircraft, the military does not allow solder, except in very special cases.

A properly crimped connection is far more reliable than even a proper solder joint (few of us know how to solder properly) in a vibration environment.

I have been crimping connections on my vehicles for 35 years and never had a joint fail.

I have repaired many solder joints on other peoples vehicles.

 

I have used those blue connectors in a pinch, I fill it with dielectric grease before inserting the wires, make sure it is the right size for the wires being connected, Then thoroughly wrap it in a good quality electrical tape.

[99silver]

My brothers house had a lot of those crimp connectors, lots of problems, I've been called to the rescue more than once. I should state they are the ones that you don't strip the wire.

[Carbon_One]

I'm with Don on soldering and shrink wraping wire connections. Eventually the splice types will either become loose or corrode and then you loose the power of whatever they go for. It really doesn't take much more time to solder the connections and doing so you know it'll last.

I will add using them say inside a car they work fine if you want to use them there. I still prefer soldering all my connections and terminals. Putting tape over the spliced connector help but tape in the long run breaks down too, especialy when used where the elements and water could get to them.

Larry

[saddlebum]

I have been wiring trucks and trailers, which see all kinds of conditions and are subject to road salt etc., for 40 years and pretty much tried them all. The all round best and most reliable, is to use bare metal crimp connectors and slip over heat shrink tubing. It is very important to use a good quality pair of crimp pliers, that actually stake as well as crimp. Do not use those cheap multipurpose types, they are garbage. Then slip over the heat shrink tubing, use double wall tubing with the hot melt sealer in it. Sometime I even put a bit of dielectric grease in the connector before assembly.

The trouble with soldering is it only works well if the wires are fairly new and untarnished. Otherwise the solder will not penetrate and bond properly. Also if a joint over heats the solder can melt and let go.

I do not at all recommend scotchlock connectors or the crimp type with insulation already on them. Unless you are using them in a dry location. Then you will have the problems that crimp connectors are notorious for

In the attachments are 2 crimp pliers of the type I recommend one is made by Thomas and Betts, the other by channel lock. There are also some very good ratcheting types that are available but very expensive. I also attached a picture of a butt connector one which was installed with the black and orange handled crimper. Notice the dimple in the crimp. Also if you wish you can apply some solder to them to seal them better

Edited January 15, 2011 by saddlebum

[Condor]

Thanks for all the input. I think that most advice deals with connecting two wires with a but connector, and not tapping a third wire into an existing circut. Those blue 'squeezers' are one way, and the dialectric grease is something that would guard against corrosion down the road. I do a lot of boat wiring and if it isn't done properly things will go bad very quickly. Using the grease should solve the possibility of any corrosion with the squeezers. Stripping a 1/2" of insulation off the existing wire and then wrapping the third wire around the primary, soldering and sealing will probably be the way I'll go. Sealing the splice with liquid electricians tape is also added security. Messy at first, but it does a great job. There's probably another 6 or 7 brands of the stuff, but Star Brite has been around the longest and what I use. I appreciate all the opinions...

[saddlebum]

Thanks for all the input. I think that most advice deals with connecting two wires with a but connector, and not tapping a third wire into an existing circut.

Actually I always use the butt connectors I described in post #14 to spliice into wires as well. you simply cut the wire you want to splice into and reconect them with the butt connector adding any additional wires needed. I then add a zip tie just outside the length of the slip on heatshrink tubing so that the wires stay together, Then when the heat shrink tubing is heated and the sealer melts it seals everthing nicely. If you want for added insurance you can put a bit of grease inside the connector prior to installing the wires or solder it after you crimp it. Believe me if this will survive the back end of a transport truck or trailer it will survive anything, just ask any truck driver how much abuse truck wiring receives. I for one however am dead set against those fold over scotch lock connectors so loved by u-haul when the add trailer wiring to your car or those insulated crimp connectors except for emergancy or dry location use, then your just asking for trouble. I have put up to four wires in each end and never had one fail or corrode. remember also soldering is only reliable when used on clean untarnished wires. Tarnished or old wiring will not properly absorb solder and just haveing a blob around the wire is not proper soldering and it will fail. For those not familiar with soldiering, warm the wire with the soldiering tool until the solder melts when touched to the wire, dont melt the soldier with the soldering tool and dont overheat the wire. If the copper is over heated the copper will just shed the soldier like a duck sheds water. Edited January 16, 2011 by saddlebum