Help-valve shim tool

[Flyinfool]

Well I started to machine my valve shim tool.

I have about 2/3rds of the outside profile done.

I will finish the outside tomorrow, then I get to work on the inside hex. Lots of metal still has to be turned into chips.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 12, 2016 by Freebird

[dingy]

Looks good so far.

 

I think it might be a smidge long, maybe just tad, hard to tell from pictures.

 

Gary

[RandyR]

Well I started to machine my valve shim tool.

I have about 2/3rds of the outside profile done.

I will finish the outside tomorrow, then I get to work on the inside hex. Lots of metal still has to be turned into chips.

 

We'll be ready to try one out when they're ready.

[Flyinfool]

I thought it looked just right.

Get all of the shims at once?

 

 

 

I am hoping to get 18-20 tools out of that bar.

 

Randy, you on the list for one of the first ones to try out.

 

What you see there is 8 hours of machining time.

I had to calculate the Y dimension in 1° increments for the profile, adjust the Y turn it 1° and them wait 1.5 minutes for the cutter to make a pass...... repeat, repeat, repeat,,,,,,,,,,,,

Edited March 6, 2011 by Flyinfool

[Kirby]

Have any of you guys thought about getting this done on an EDM machine? Then doing the cam lobes as a secondary operation on the mill? Of course you'd have to use plate material instead of bar material.

[Flyinfool]

But I do not have an EDM in my basement, I do have a mill.

 

Once I finish machining on this bar, then I will slice it up into 18-20 tools.

No it is not the easiest way to do it, but ya gots to work with what ya gots.

[dingy]

From what I have seen of EDM process, it is fairly slow. It would be doable, but probably would not bring cost down much.

 

There is a lot of chips made when this tool is produced, an EDM would have to cut away a lot of material. Another issue is the tool thickness, it is not a stock size. So each part has to be cut to correct thickness as well. Would be simpler if tool was say .500" thick or some standard size.

 

I sent out quite a few quote requests for this tool, and none of them came back in a range that made sense for me to pursue.

 

Gary

[Marcarl]

Looks like something I would be interested in having in my tool box. Was out to Harbor Freight and Pep Boys last week and came home empty handed, was feeling sorry for myself that I couldn't find anything useful to add to my tool box, but now this tool might come in handy sometime. So if you're looking for someone to share with,,,, I'll be shareable.

[Kirby]

I was just thinking about the 2 machines we have where I work. But I don't think the "higher ups" would go for it! Anyway you could order .437 thick by 1.5 inch material, grind off .020, wire burn, and finish in a mill to get the lobe. Material this thin will wire burn a lot faster than you think. I had just been following your discussion and thought I'd throw in my two cents worth.

 

 

I'll go back to my corner now.

[muaymendez1]

I just posted this on another thread but wanted to post it here as well.

 

 

Just got a tip from a buddy who did his without the use of the shim tool.

Tell me this is dangerous.

He measured everything like the book said and the ones he couldnt gte th feeler in he rotated the engine until the valve had full deflectiono. He drove a thick nylon ziptie through the plug hole and stuck it under the vale after rotating the engine a bit more the valve was still in the open position.

Though it wasnt easy he claims it did work.

im skeptical.

[Flyinfool]

I still have everything BUT the wire EDM in my basement.

Know where I can get a wire EDM, cheap, one that can be carried down the basement steps?

 

Its almost too late now, I just have one of the flats of the HEX left to machine.

Then slice it up and machine the lobes.

Then heat treat.

 

This whole thing would be a LOT quicker if I had access to a CNC mill.

[Rocket]

Looks like something I would be interested in having in my tool box. Was out to Harbor Freight and Pep Boys last week and came home empty handed, was feeling sorry for myself that I couldn't find anything useful to add to my tool box, but now this tool might come in handy sometime. So if you're looking for someone to share with,,,, I'll be shareable.

 

Looks like something, for my toolbox as well, as Oldseadog & others in the home area may try to keep me busy, after I return home.

[dingy]

I just posted this on another thread but wanted to post it here as well.

 

 

Just got a tip from a buddy who did his without the use of the shim tool.

Tell me this is dangerous.

He measured everything like the book said and the ones he couldnt gte th feeler in he rotated the engine until the valve had full deflectiono. He drove a thick nylon ziptie through the plug hole and stuck it under the vale after rotating the engine a bit more the valve was still in the open position.

Though it wasnt easy he claims it did work.

im skeptical.

 

 

Just posted this in the same forum you posted this B.S.

 

Dangerous, No ...Ludicrous, Yes

 

You would be trying to get the zip tie head in the valve opening while totally blind to position, dropping down through plug hole about 2", then rotating zip tie to where it was perfectly aligned, then rotate crank to capture zip tie while holding zip tie in place that you can't see..

 

Now I think you and your buddy have been smokin something a lot stronger than marlboro's.

 

Anything is possible though. A monkey with a machine gun while eventually spell out the constitution given enough ammo.

 

Let us know how this works out for you. BTW the tool is only $65 from Thunder Valley, see it in the classifieds.

 

Gary

[Flyinfool]

I'm getting closer.

All that is left for this setup is to mill the one last flat to the HEX part.

It is hard to see in the pics, but there is just .030 left to take off on that last flat till it is done. This has made a huge pile of chips. 3/4 Of that steel bar has been turned into chips already.

 

The next step is to slice this bar up to the required thickness and machine in the ramp on each side. Then heat treat.

 

I'm still planning to get 20 tools out of this bar.

 

 

Edited February 12, 2016 by Freebird

[RandyR]

yep. Looking good. I'll get them tried out soon after I get one.

[Guest oldroadstar]

I just posted this on another thread but wanted to post it here as well.

 

 

Just got a tip from a buddy who did his without the use of the shim tool.

Tell me this is dangerous.

He measured everything like the book said and the ones he couldnt gte th feeler in he rotated the engine until the valve had full deflectiono. He drove a thick nylon ziptie through the plug hole and stuck it under the vale after rotating the engine a bit more the valve was still in the open position.

Though it wasnt easy he claims it did work.

im skeptical.

 

Just so noone thinks this is too crazy, this is the way I did it on my '83 Seca. It takes a BIG zip tie. One that is about a foot or longer. It worked fine and did no harm to the valves. You could just see the valve through the plug hole when it was compressed.

[RePeter]

Hi Jeff. How are you making out with the valve adjusting tools? I am definitely interested in one since I can't find one in western Canada or Pacific North West. I have my bike apart and need to change all of the intake shims.

 

Thanks.... Peter

[Flyinfool]

I am getting there.

I now have a 10 inch long chunk of steel with the correct profile.

I will cut that up into pieces and then just have to mill in the 2 ramps.

I am working on the fixture to do the ramps now.

 

This has turned into quite a project

85% of the original bar of steel is now chips on the floor. That is a lot of time spent cutting metal. I also now have a good size pile of worn out cutters.

BUT it has been fun so that makes it worth it.

 

In between working on this, I am also working on getting the bike ready for riding and traveling this summer.

Edited February 12, 2016 by Freebird

[MiCarl]

Would it be easier to machine the ramps before you cut them apart?

[Flyinfool]

If I had better technology for cutting them apart then yes it would be easier to do the ramps first. But with what I have to work with (A band saw with a metal cutting blade) I will have to mount each piece and take a skim cut off of one side, put in the ramp then flip it over to machine to final thickness and cut the final ramp.

 

I could use a slitting saw and cut it up on the mill right to finished size with the ramps already in place, but I think I would go through to many slitters, this is some tough steel.

[Flyinfool]

Shame on me. I forgot pics.

 

Edited February 12, 2016 by Freebird

[RandyR]

Shame on me. I forgot pics.

 

almost there....

[Flyinfool]

I have a lot of work to do on the fixture for the last step. But yes it is getting there.

 

The first phase was a lot of hours of machining time and very little setup, This step will be a couple of minutes machine time and many hours of setup.

[a1bummer]

If any of the CAD equipped people want the model of the tool or draft files let me know.

 

Gary

 

I'd be interested in those. I have a few friends who either work in or own metal fab outfits that I'll ask if they can make them. And what it may cost to do so. The more information I can get the better.

 

Thanks, Bill

[dingy]

I'd be interested in those. I have a few friends who either work in or own metal fab outfits that I'll ask if they can make them. And what it may cost to do so. The more information I can get the better.

 

Thanks, Bill

 

I emailed the two versions of the tool I created to you.

 

They are in an IGES format, this is a common neutral format that most 3D CAD systems can import.

 

They were created in Solid Edge ST.

 

Gary