Are there any downside issues???

[MasterGuns]

Would had posted on the original thread by Skydoc but thought it would be best to start a new one.

 

I have been considering purchasing the anti-dive blocking plates from Skydoc; essentially removing the anti-dives system from my 86. Can't really think of a good reason in doing so otherthan eliminating the needed power they require. Already have the Progressive springs installed. So, I have the following questions.

 

1) Does the anti-dive system draw any power when the front shocks aren't under an increasing load (diving)?

 

2) How much power does the anti-dive system draw when the front shocks dive (max draw)?

 

3) By making the front shocks stiffer which reduces the dive, doesn't that fact alone reduce the amount of juice the anti-dive system draws?

 

4) And I suppose that by eliminateing the anti-dive system, that doesn't eliminate the ability to use the CLASS up front (increase/decrease air pressure).

 

5) Last question. As all us 1st Gen owners know, whenever the rear brake is applied, which activates two 1157 stop light bulbs, is when the voltmeter really drops. Whether stopped or moving, activating the rear stop light affects the voltmeter the same. I've installed a couple really good bright 260 degree LED bulbs in the tail light and notice my voltmeter doesn't drop one little bit when activating the rear brake. Having said that, I doubt the anti-dive draws much at all. The question is: Could some convince me that removing the anti-dive is really a good idea?

[dingy]

Would had posted on the original thread by Skydoc but thought it would be best to start a new one.

 

I have been considering purchasing the anti-dive blocking plates from Skydoc; essentially removing the anti-dives system from my 86. Can't really think of a good reason in doing so otherthan eliminating the needed power they require. Already have the Progressive springs installed. So, I have the following questions.

 

1) Does the anti-dive system draw any power when the front shocks aren't under an increasing load (diving)?

 

Anti Dives are only engaged when front or rear brake is depressed (same circuit as brake light activates Anti Dives)

 

2) How much power does the anti-dive system draw when the front shocks dive (max draw)?

 

I will check later today, but I think it is around 5 amps when brakes are activated.

 

3) By making the front shocks stiffer which reduces the dive, doesn't that fact alone reduce the amount of juice the anti-dive system draws?

 

No, Anti dives are either on or off, the Anti Dive on an MKII is a solenoid valve (similar to a relay), there is a coil, that when activated, moves a plunger in the Anti dive valve body.

 

4) And I suppose that by eliminateing the anti-dive system, that doesn't eliminate the ability to use the CLASS up front (increase/decrease air pressure).

 

No, Class system is entirely separate system. CLASS helps to stiffen front and rear end. Depending on bike weight and road conditions, the amount of air in the shocks is varied to change riding stiffness.

 

5) Last question. As all us 1st Gen owners know, whenever the rear brake is applied, which activates two 1157 stop light bulbs, is when the voltmeter really drops. Whether stopped or moving, activating the rear stop light affects the voltmeter the same. I've installed a couple really good bright 260 degree LED bulbs in the tail light and notice my voltmeter doesn't drop one little bit when activating the rear brake. Having said that, I doubt the anti-dive draws much at all. The question is: Could some convince me that removing the anti-dive is really a good idea?

 

If you have progressive springs, I believe the anti dives are useless. I am working on a drawing that shows the fork system in detail, and from what I can see, the anti dives do nothing prior to the last 1" of fork travel, just before it bottoms out.

 

The drawing below is still not complete. I am waiting to get an inner fork tube and an MKII electric Anti Dive valve from MiCarl next Saturday. It has an MKI Anti Dive valve which is similar to the MKII unit, except it is activated hydraulically. Some components still need to be adjusted, but for the most part it is close. The purple bushing inside the inner tube still needs work.

 

Gary

 

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Forkcomp-ADclosed.jpg

 

Below is a view similar to the one above, but with the fork at 1 1/2" from bottom.

 

At this point, both of the ports in the Anti Dive valve into the outer fork tube are unrestricted. By this I mean that both ports are going into the same cavity in the tube. If they are going into the same cavity, I can see no effect that they can impart on the fork.

 

It is not until the fork travels slightly more downward, that the lower bushing on the inner fork tube passes by the upper port on the Anti Dive valves that any thing can begin to occur.

 

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ForkTubeat11-2inchalt.jpg

Edited January 9, 2011 by dingy
added second picture

[skydoc_17]

Hey Herb,

It is nice to see you on the site, I haven't seen you in a while!

Thanks Gary for the detailed answer for Herb's Questions.

To expand on Gary's information, The MKII Anti-Dive Solenoids use 12% of the total amount of electricity that the stator produces weather you are "Diving" or not! Even sitting at a stop light, if you have the front or rear brake engaged, you are using 12% of the electrical power available to run all of your lighting or recharge the battery. EVERY TIME you have the brake engaged, weather you are moving or not! Because I have the stock stator, (not the high output one) a 12% savings in electrical power was HUGE for me. This was reason #1 for removing the Anti-Dive Solenoids for me.

I would honestly have to say that reason #2 was Cosmetic. Now in the case of the MKII solenoids, the removal of the Anti-Dive Solenoids was modest, BUT in the case of the MKI Hydraulic Solenoids, getting that Large, "Clunkly" Hydraulic Valve and the additional brake line that runs from the front caliper to the Anti-Dive Valve makes a world of difference in the appearance of the front forks on the MKI VR. If there is an "UGLY" area on a VR, it would have to be right here, at the Anti-Dive Valves!

If I could be honest with you for a moment Herb, If you just disconnected the electrical lines from the Anti-Dive Valves where they connect up under the fairing, you will get the same power saving benefit as you would from adding the block off plates. I made these plates to solve an issue I have with the power consumption of the solenoids, and to change the appearance of the front forks by removing those solenoids.

If a 12% total loss of electrical power doesn't bother you, or if those "clunky" Anti-Dive Solenoids sticking out the sides of your front forks doesn't bother you, then there is absolutely NO reason for you to purchase them.

These plates are something I custom made for my bike, thought they were "cool looking",

and they solved an electrical issue I had on my MKII VR. I thought other First Gen. owners would think the same way, so I offered them in the Classifieds. If you don't happen to be one of those VR owners that feel the same way, I don't have a problem with that at all.

Because our selections of "Safety Chrome" type items are now limited because of the age of our bikes, I thought this would be an excellent addition of a high quality Stainless Steel polished, "Safety Chrome" type item in an area of the bike that doesn't look all that great to begin with. Plus the addition of the power savings made this a logical choice for me.

Earl

[Flyinfool]

I guess I was never worried about the extra electrical draw of the anti dive. After all how much of your riding is with the brakes applied, the anti dive draws no power unless you have applied the brake. I guess I feel the same as having my horn pulling 20A. It is for safety and it is only an intermittent draw.

 

If you want a clue as to what the anti dives do, here is a simple test.

Sit on the bike with the ignition off, grab the front brake and bounce the front end, note how much it moves, now turn on the ignition and/or start the engine and try to bounce the front end.

 

I do not have progressives installed, yet. I would like to try this test on a bike similar to my 88 with progressives installed.