dingy Posted January 8, 2011 #26 Posted January 8, 2011 Here is a link to service manuals You want the one titled 'First gen Manual' under the 1st Generation Ventures section. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3384 A common problem with the plug wires is the built in resistor in plug cap. Replace them, remove them, whatever or you will not be sure if this is source of weak spark. If you remove wire from coils, cut about a 1/4" off end of wire when you replace, if you do not replace with new ones. As freisman1 said, get air box back on with a filter in it. These bikes are known for not liking the stock set up to be modified. The bike will idle somewhat decent, but will run like crap around 2,500 RPM and up with air box lid off. With the bike idling, spray WD40 around any intake connections, carb boots, vacuum lines. It will get a little messy, but it will wash off or evaporate. Any RPM surges indicate a leak. Are the lines you say that are not connected the 4 lines (about 1/2" dia.) that run towards the rear of the bike for the carb overflows ? There are also 4 small (about 1/4" dia.) lines that run from float level check ports. Neither set of these should effect bike running if not on. You defiantly want the overflow lines on when you are done though. Did you set float levels 'By the book' ? Is there fresh gas in tank? Have you checked/replaced fuel filter? Gary
silversurfer Posted January 8, 2011 Author #27 Posted January 8, 2011 i had to hook up some things and put some things back together that were apart, got her runnen and ran some test,(already did the ether on the intake boot test no change) oh yea i know about cutting off a bit of wire thats were it corrodes many times, thats the first thing i usually do when i get a bike, but i understand what your saying about the caps i already took them off(and apart) am leaving to store in a minute to get new plugs and caps, pulled overflow screw and all carbs are getting gas, I DID NOT REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER ALSO WHEN I PULL OFF FUEL LINE GAS DOESNT COME OUT which i wouldnt think that too much would since gravity goes the other direction, honestly the fuel filter really could be the culprit since its making the carbs have to work harder than they can to pull the gas up out the tank right? BUt i kinda ruled that out already using an external gas tank that was well above the bike with fuel pump disconected as far as the way it was idling thats taken care of it was the idle screw and i synced the carbs now it idles right around were it should, i blocked those large overflow lines and didnt see any change(hey i had to try) so anyways off to store will be back with fresh plugs and caps, i have a feeling thats not my prob but its very possible, i tried to ohm test the coils but couldnt really figure it out unless the coils are bad i was gettin a reading of like 11.3(not what the book stated) but i assume that im taking the reading incorrectly) i dunno 1 thing at a time today is the day though gotta get her smoothed out, oh yea i got the service manual yesterday from the library, i guess i can try the airbox too u never kno, AND as far as the float levels go i dont EVER touch the float level unless it seriously looks like it has been tampered with, so floats should be just as good as when they were made..
mbrood Posted January 8, 2011 #28 Posted January 8, 2011 Ohm testing coils... test from inside plug holder to ignition fuse. You should read about 23K Ohms, 10 for the resistor in the plug holder and 13 for the coil secondary. You can also measure the primary coils by Ohming from the ignition fuse to pin 2,3, 6 and 7 on the TCI for the 3 Ohm reading (these are typically called 3 Ohm ignition coils). http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg
dingy Posted January 8, 2011 #29 Posted January 8, 2011 AND as far as the float levels go i dont EVER touch the float level unless it seriously looks like it has been tampered with, so floats should be just as good as when they were made.. Not correct grasshopper. Probably not the cause of your overall problems, but they should be checked. There are several variables that can affect float settings, one being I very much doubt these are checked at the factory. It is possible to check levels with carbs on bike. Service manual shows procedure. Bike on center stand. May need to raise front end to level carbs out. Gary
silversurfer Posted January 8, 2011 Author #30 Posted January 8, 2011 WELL A COMBINATION OF NEW PLUGS, THE AIRBOX, AND TAKING OF A CUPLE CAPS AND PUTTING THE WIRE STRAIT TO THE PLUG AND THIS BABY RUNS LIKE A CHAMP!!! i am jumping for joy .... so when do the fans kick on on these things about half way mark?? seems like the guage defianatly going up but slowly, radiator is full, ALREADY CHANGED THE OIL, it runs really good, a little different then what im used to its my first v twin, my exhaust was jam packed with all that crap i sprayed in there but its dam near cleared out, THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT PUT IN THERE 2 SENSE YOU GUYS ARE GOOD PEOPLE TO HELP SUMONE U DONT EVEN KNOW, I HOPE TO KEEP THIS BIKE, i have alot of maintanance to do( shaft drive oil) maybe another oil change, fuel filter,,THE WORKS) but now i can do it cuz she is purren like a kitten , instant throttle response and everything
silversurfer Posted January 8, 2011 Author #31 Posted January 8, 2011 cant u just clean the resistor piece that corrodes in the spark plug?
Yammer Dan Posted January 8, 2011 #32 Posted January 8, 2011 You can clean it if you take them apart very carefully. Little parts are easy to loose. E-bay has a set of Pre-cut wires for these things for about 35 bucks.
RandyR Posted January 8, 2011 #33 Posted January 8, 2011 these V4's are sweet engines. Looking forward to seeing the bike at Maintenance Day in Oberlin Ohio in late spring.
silversurfer Posted January 8, 2011 Author #34 Posted January 8, 2011 yea hope to be there yep ur right about losin those pieces there were a cuple small pieces in there and its gonna be fun to figure out where they all went but thats no big deal at all whatsoever since i need to replace wires and caps anyways since there out the door, im goin out now clean up the garage and try and get the plastics, ect back together, had to grab sumthin to eat. its nice i can breath now the bike runs as it should:mytruck:
Squeeze Posted January 8, 2011 #35 Posted January 8, 2011 Well, i'm glad you got the Motor running and now we're also looking for your Wisdom. :happy34: (Not to be too blunt, just hit the Button and make it happen ...) :whistling: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/payments.php
dingy Posted January 8, 2011 #36 Posted January 8, 2011 yea hope to be there yep ur right about losin those pieces there were a cuple small pieces in there and its gonna be fun to figure out where they all went but thats no big deal at all whatsoever since i need to replace wires and caps anyways since there out the door, im goin out now clean up the garage and try and get the plastics, ect back together, had to grab sumthin to eat. its nice i can breath now the bike runs as it should:mytruck: OK, that should be worth $12 to you then. One year membership of somewhat knowledgeable help, free sarcasm, and a bunch of good people that will try to help. Gary
Squeeze Posted January 8, 2011 #37 Posted January 8, 2011 OK, that should be worth $12 to you then. One year membership of somewhat knowledgeable help, free sarcasm, and a bunch off good people that will try to help. Gary Gary, i really like the free Sarcasm Part :crackup::crackup:
silversurfer Posted January 9, 2011 Author #38 Posted January 9, 2011 i am surely gonna join the organization
silversurfer Posted January 9, 2011 Author #39 Posted January 9, 2011 what i said is that i have no pressure in my clutch, maybe just need to be bled but kinda strange to have air in it? probably why po stopped riding it, i dunno ill tackle that one tomorrow
gscbertrand Posted January 9, 2011 #40 Posted January 9, 2011 No pressure in your clutch might be master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuild time.
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