shikano53 Posted December 9, 2010 #1 Posted December 9, 2010 Hi, I have a set of new tires to put on my bike but of course the roads are snow and ice covered but I would like to get this done before the spring time rush. How difficult a job is it to remove the wheels for a mechanically challenged person to perform? thank you in advance Chris
RandyR Posted December 9, 2010 #2 Posted December 9, 2010 which machine do you have? Not difficult on the 2nd gens if you have a lift and an adapter that fits the frame so you can raise the bike off the ground. I believe there are articles in the tech section about how to do it. for the rear wheel, you must remove the brake caliper, which is easy. Remove both the saddle bags. Pay attention to the placement of spacers on the brakes and axles. Lube the splines in the rear wheel and the drive shaft if it hasn't been done recently. Again, there are pictures of doing this in the tech section.
bongobobny Posted December 9, 2010 #3 Posted December 9, 2010 The rear is the harder of the two to remove. You need to lift the bike up high enough to allow the wheel to drop down and out. The saddlebags need to be removed, and so does the left muffler so that the axle can come out. you remove the brake caliper, remove the nut on the axle, and push the axle all the way thru, and pay attention to the spacer between the caliper mount and the swing arm, and remember exactly where it goes. onve the axle clears the wheel the wheel will want to fall out. Now what I do is have the rear up in the air just enough so that the rear tire is just touching when I removew the axke, then jack up the bike until I can get the wheel out. When I reinstall, I put the wheel in, and lower the bike until I can get the splines on the rear end to line up with the wheel and reinsert the axle. You will probably need to use a drift pin to drive the axle out. The front is a little easier but has the same principal, remove the calipers, remove the nut, and drive the axle out. You don't have to raise the bike quite as far to get the wheel to clear. Overall the job is not that hard, and doesn't require am engineering degree in mechanics to perform so, unless you have a hard time removing and reinstalling bolts you should be able to handle it. You do need a torque wrench to set the specific tightness on the axle and caliper bolts to do the job right, and there is some other Preventative Maintenance you could do while the wheels are off. I'm sure others will put their 2 cents in and give their perspective on how to do the job, which is a good thing. You will save yourself a good chunk of change doing the job yourself and have the satisfaction of doing your own work as well. Check out the service manual to see what the factory has to say, and for the torque values. The service manual should be on site in PDF...
bongobobny Posted December 9, 2010 #4 Posted December 9, 2010 Heh! Randy answered while I was typing away!
aharbi Posted December 9, 2010 #5 Posted December 9, 2010 (edited) There are excellent write ups on this forum. One is complete with step by step pictures. Also, speaking of pictures, I always take pictures of something I'm about to take apart and at any stage where I think I may not remember how something goes back together. I'll try to find the post and edit this if/when I do. Here it is: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 Edited December 9, 2010 by aharbi added link
Guest scarylarry Posted December 9, 2010 #6 Posted December 9, 2010 which machine do you have? Not difficult on the 2nd gens if you have a lift and an adapter that fits the frame so you can raise the bike off the ground. I believe there are articles in the tech section about how to do it. for the rear wheel, you must remove the brake caliper, which is easy. Remove both the saddle bags. Pay attention to the placement of spacers on the brakes and axles. Lube the splines in the rear wheel and the drive shaft if it hasn't been done recently. Again, there are pictures of doing this in the tech section. And don't forget the torque rachet....That is a must tool but over all easy if watch what you are doing
shikano53 Posted December 9, 2010 Author #7 Posted December 9, 2010 Thanks for the great information. I will give this a go this weekend. P.S. I have a 2004 RSV Chris
BOO Posted December 9, 2010 #8 Posted December 9, 2010 You can do it.. Like the guys said watch the spacers, there are some between the bags and the frame also. Print out the instructions from the forum and you'll be fine. BOO
jeff2053 Posted December 9, 2010 #9 Posted December 9, 2010 I did mine for the first time this last summer for the same reason(new tires) I was concerned when I started but just follows the tech article that I found on this website and it could not have gone smoother. Jeff
Seaking Posted December 10, 2010 #10 Posted December 10, 2010 Gah whats the thing about the pins that should be greased up as well, any time you remove the wheel they should be lubed up to avoid clicking and such? No memory this late in the year lol
RedRider Posted December 10, 2010 #11 Posted December 10, 2010 Hub drive pins. When you remove the rear wheel, the hub is on the drive side. There is an internal circlip (snapring) that needs removed and then the hub will lift off. You will see the pins. If they are dry (likely) and have any rust (likely), clean them with some emory cloth or fine steel wool. Get some Honda Moly60 from your local Honda (car) shop and lube the pins. No need to go nuts with the lube since any extra will get wiped off when the hub is replaced. You may want to order and use a new circlip. If you don't have a good set of snap ring pliers, you will likely bend it using screw drivers to remove it. It is pretty easy to take care of once you find the circlip. Will need to clean some grease out of the way to find it. RR
Eck Posted December 10, 2010 #12 Posted December 10, 2010 If you end up with any parts left over or your not sure where a part goes, just take a picture of it, post it, and we can tell you where to put it.. I mean tell you where it goes..
fxitdude Posted December 10, 2010 #13 Posted December 10, 2010 shikano53 be sure that the bike is secure on the stand, strapped down. When you remove either the front or the back it can cause and unbalance that can cause the bike to tilt. I now always put a block under the other wheel so this can't happen. Once the wheel is off you can remove the block and take that wheel off if you are doing both. Please don't ask how I learned this lesson not something I like to think about.
N3FOL Posted December 10, 2010 #14 Posted December 10, 2010 As mentioned earlier, lots of previous topics are available in this forum for your searching. Read about the job in detail and prep all your materials...ie: tools, grease, rags, etc. When it comes to working on my RSV, I always wanted to have a stable lift when the bike if off the ground with the wheels off. Because of this, I got myself the popular Carbon One adapter w/ legs and a J&S jack. I am a DIY...you can do this. Members are always available here for help. Good Luck.
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