Throttle , It's a long way

[Thom]

The thing I hate about a 1st gen is the throttle , it is a long way to get to wot . with my big hands to go full throttle I have to break my wrest , anybody know if there is a shorter throw one that will work on our bikes ?

BTW it Snaggaltooth fault ! He was talking about a 1/4 turn throttle on a over powered dirt bike:stickpoke:

[painterman67]

now Im sure that if you was on a second gen youd need to go to wot. But on my 1st gen I cant hold on when I got to wot. It pulls to hard.

 

David

[mbrood]

You have three cams working, the diameter of the throttle cam, the twin cams in the junction box and the cam at the carb. The diameter of the thottle cam could be reduced (not much left around that bar) but you would have to match that diameter with the half in the junction box that matches, it HAS to be a 1:1 to keep a pull-pull system. Alternatively you could increase the last two cams... Got a machine shop buddy with nothing to do over the holidays?

[friesman]

Actually I use a throttle rocker and Ive found that i can use my thumb to push the throttlerocker to wide open real quick without having to twist wrist at all.

 

 

Brian

[Ndiaz]

Actually I use a throttle rocker and Ive found that i can use my thumb to push the throttle rocker to wide open real quick without having to twist wrist at all.

 

 

Brian

 

I use a throttle rocker as well, and it makes a world of difference, especially on long rides. It's a "Crampbuster", the wide type.

 

I use the thumb as well to push to WOT.

 

Nick Diaz

Middletown, MD

[Thom]

You have three cams working, the diameter of the throttle cam, the twin cams in the junction box and the cam at the carb. The diameter of the thottle cam could be reduced (not much left around that bar) but you would have to match that diameter with the half in the junction box that matches, it HAS to be a 1:1 to keep a pull-pull system. Alternatively you could increase the last two cams... Got a machine shop buddy with nothing to do over the holidays?

Ya your rite , I looked at it and thought it would take a machine shop but i was thinking of using 1.5 to 1 levers but that takes a machine shop too .

I've used a thumb lock too but had them slip when i jam them back all the way .

I have met 1st geners that have never popped a wheelly and it was because they never used the last 1/4 turn of the throttle

It's cold outside , to cold to ride so that why I have the " I Wander if it will work " today

I need heated vest , gloves and seat , its only 55 f !!

[dingy]

The only viable option would be to machine a different pulley for the cruise/cable junction box.

 

On the cable junction box, it would require that the throttle side pulley be reduced in size to reduce the amount of rotation at the throttle and give greater travel at the carbs.

 

Changing the carbs would be possible but probably much more difficult even if there was room. The swing arms on the carb would both have to be reduced in size.

 

Changing the throttle end is probably not possible given the size constraints of the housing.

 

Doing this would then require greater force at the throttle due to the pulley relationship change. The carb return springs could be modified to reduce this increase in force at the throttle.

 

Gary

 

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ThrottleLinkage.jpg

Edited December 5, 2010 by dingy
spelling

[Snaggletooth]

BTW it Snaggaltooth fault !

 

You have no idea how often I hear that.

[camos]

Wear and tear could have reduced the effective circumference of the pulley. It might be possible to improve throttle response by filling in the groove a little.