The Cheese Posted November 27, 2010 #1 Posted November 27, 2010 Greetings from N. GA. I have my carbs put back together after an extensive cleaning and part replacement. It went well for the most part. No left over parts and what not. I have run into a small snag now. They are completely assembled. The choke linkage doesn't seem to be synced with both sides. If I turn the choke like the cable would, the left (cable attachment side) side will actuate the left side chokes first. Then the right side follows. Its about an eight inch off. The only way I see to adjust this would be to bend the choke linkage rod. Which I suppose would be no problem. However, I would like to confirm or deny if I should first. Is it normal for it to activate side before the other? If someone would please take a peek at theirs, I would be most grateful. BTW, sorry to be so long winded with just a small question. Michael
Snaggletooth Posted November 28, 2010 #2 Posted November 28, 2010 If you look at the choke setup.....fuel enrichent units......you will see the linkage for each side connect to a shaft on each side that has a lever that connects to the enrichment plunger on each carb body. There is a set screw on each lever that can be loosened allowing seperate adjustment of each plunger. Set them all the same and you should be good to go. Don't need to bend anything. Just make sure that when the choke lever is off....all the plungers are fully closed.
The Cheese Posted November 28, 2010 Author #3 Posted November 28, 2010 I'm sorry to say its not that simple. Each choke, or Fuel Ench. Valve does have a set screw. However it sets into a dimple on the shaft. Adjustment that way is simply not possible. Thanks for trying to help. Michael
dingy Posted November 28, 2010 #4 Posted November 28, 2010 I have an 86 carb rack coming in the mail sometime next week. If you are still in need of help, I can look this set over and try & help you. Tracking says it will be here Wednesday. Gary
Yammer Dan Posted November 28, 2010 #5 Posted November 28, 2010 I have an 86 carb rack coming in the mail sometime next week. If you are still in need of help, I can look this set over and try & help you. Tracking says it will be here Wednesday. Gary Now I know who outbid me!!!&*%#$%%
dingy Posted November 28, 2010 #6 Posted November 28, 2010 Now I know who outbid me!!!&*%#$%% I didn't outbid you. It was a Buy it now with a Make an offer option. Made an offer and he took it. Got nice looking carb rack, cruise bellows & all accelerator cables for $127 with shipping. Gary
Yammer Dan Posted November 28, 2010 #7 Posted November 28, 2010 Just kidding. I saw them didn't need them. Got a few extras.
bkuhr Posted November 28, 2010 #8 Posted November 28, 2010 'Seems' to me there is a plastic bushing in the right hand choke, (enricher/starter), bell crank that the push rod secures thru. If missing, slack would account for right hand 'choke' responing late. Of course it 'seems" I might be spaced out and wrong about this bushing. Will try to look at mine later.
The Cheese Posted November 28, 2010 Author #9 Posted November 28, 2010 Plastic bushings are accounted for. I am really beginning to think that while they were apart, the rod got bent. It just makes no sense to me to have one side come on late. The right side does not even pull all the way out. That has to be wrong. Michael
bkuhr Posted November 28, 2010 #10 Posted November 28, 2010 Plastic bushings are accounted for. I am really beginning to think that while they were apart, the rod got bent. It just makes no sense to me to have one side come on late. The right side does not even pull all the way out. That has to be wrong. Michael How about some real good pics of your setup. Maybe some one can spot the problem.
The Cheese Posted November 28, 2010 Author #11 Posted November 28, 2010 Good idea. Vid is uploading to youtube. Here are some pics for now. http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121451.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121438.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121402.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121335.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121311.jpg If you want another shot of anything, let me know. Michael
bull463 Posted November 28, 2010 #12 Posted November 28, 2010 Hi Last time I had my 83 apart I thought there was a small spring for the choke linkage. Of course it was buried in the linkage but if you took the carbs apart its easy to miss. Bull463
The Cheese Posted November 28, 2010 Author #13 Posted November 28, 2010 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxg-nWmSQW0]YouTube - video 2010 11 28 12 01 18[/ame]
Condor Posted November 28, 2010 #14 Posted November 28, 2010 The fork should sit right in the middle of the notch on the plunger. You can bend the fingers to adjust. The idea is to let the plunger close completely and not raise havoc with the gas milage.... They are inrichment valves, not butterflies, so having one open a little earlier than another is not that big of a deal. Having one not completely close is....
The Cheese Posted November 28, 2010 Author #15 Posted November 28, 2010 I just bent them to correct the imbalance. All valves are closing fully. It seems one side does not open fully. I am calling it good enough. Time to put these things on, and get on with it. Enough stalling. Michael
bkuhr Posted November 28, 2010 #16 Posted November 28, 2010 Attached pic of my left side and right side choke links, and pic of your rear view. Looks like my right side link is angled more to the right than yours, yours appear to be straight down. Your vid also shows play for your link to move more to the right. Possible for rod to be slightly bent, but more likely you have carb banks assembled together slightly wrong. Front and rear mount rails have sight amount of wiggle room around screws before tightened. Suggest loosen 4 screws on each front and rear mount rail, and push left and right bank toward each other. This will make the 'chock rod' longer and angle the right link a little to the right. Also very important for carbs to be assembled on an assembly plate (very smooth, very flat surface). I use a 1/4 steel plate cut to fit between mount protusions, but glass from picture or mirror may suffice if fully supported on flat table top. Double check flatness with very good straight edge. (If using glass use caution not to drop or press to hard onto it). Leave the bottom mounts and drain tues off, installing last, so carbs can sit on bottom carb thoats on assembly plate. Very easy for carbs to be tweaked into a slight angle otherwise. First install top mounts and tighten screws for each carb bank. Then install front and rear mounts to assemble the banks together and tighten screws. (While doing this press banks together to get your choke right.) Finally flip carbs and install bottom mounts without changing any other adjustments already made. Now double check that the carbs are flat with each other. If they will not sit on assemble plate with bottom mounts on, use a very good straight edge across the bottom throats in every direction. You have already figured out that the 'choke' finger set screws self center into dimples in the actuating rods. Make sure they are properly in the dimples. Finally if you decide to bend the rod, remove it from the right link first, to avoid bending pressure on the link-(bend and test and repeat method). After this is done make sure throttle rods actuate butterflies correctly, and preset all 3 sync screws so all 4 butterflies are just and fully closed, then start to open exactly same time together. Go ahead and play with these screws now and understand how they work together for when it comes time for sync, but finish with them set as above. Now do fuel float level check, procedure in forum. If good, fine ready to install carbs on bike. If not, then.....start all this topic over to get the bowls off for adjustments. (seldom needs adjustment, but should be checked during reassembly to be sure.)
bkuhr Posted November 28, 2010 #17 Posted November 28, 2010 I just bent them to correct the imbalance. All valves are closing fully. It seems one side does not open fully. I am calling it good enough. Time to put these things on, and get on with it. Enough stalling. Michael Looks like I was to late with my post, sorry. I did mean to mention that in your pic I copied in my post, your right rear carb looks to be slightly tweaked (angled) as compared to the other carbs. Need at least to check flatness with straight edge.
Condor Posted November 28, 2010 #18 Posted November 28, 2010 I just bent them to correct the imbalance. All valves are closing fully. It seems one side does not open fully. I am calling it good enough. Time to put these things on, and get on with it. Enough stalling. Michael Go to your local NAPA store and pick up some DeepCreep. It made by the same company that makes Sea Foam. Works wonders on lazy plungers.... Use it to lube up all the moving joints. Might as well do it now while they're off the bike.... A couple of cans of Carb Cleaner will do wonders to clean up the outside of those carbs too....
The Cheese Posted November 28, 2010 Author #19 Posted November 28, 2010 Condor, These carbs have spent 48 hrs in Yam. carb dip. After that were ran in an ultrasonic. A very big industrial one. All brass bits look brand new. I have no idea why the aluminum looks bad still. It is a lot cleaner than it was before. Anything rubber or gasket was replaced. bkuhr, Either you have super powers, or one hell of a lucky guesser. I was a bit hasty in joining the two banks together. As the below pics tell. http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28180119.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28180107.jpg All butterfly's were bench synced. The fuel ench. valves are now acting as one. No play at all. Now I gotta do it all over again. Bummer. But very glad it was caught now. Michael
bkuhr Posted November 28, 2010 #20 Posted November 28, 2010 Condor, These carbs have spent 48 hrs in Yam. carb dip. After that were ran in an ultrasonic. A very big industrial one. All brass bits look brand new. I have no idea why the aluminum looks bad still. It is a lot cleaner than it was before. Anything rubber or gasket was replaced. bkuhr, Either you have super powers, or one hell of a lucky guesser. I was a bit hasty in joining the two banks together. As the below pics tell. http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28180119.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28180107.jpg All butterfly's were bench synced. The fuel ench. valves are now acting as one. No play at all. Now I gotta do it all over again. Bummer. But very glad it was caught now. Michael Been there done that. Glad you caught it now. I also had problem with bent sync links took forever to figure out, Thats why I recommend the presync procedure in previous post.
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