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Posted

Any good quality coolant will be just fine. I buy the full strength, then dilute it 50/50 using distilled water. That is the only thing I do differently from my automobiles... :080402gudl_prv:

Posted
Any good quality coolant will be just fine. I buy the full strength, then dilute it 50/50 using distilled water. That is the only thing I do differently from my automobiles... :080402gudl_prv:

 

 

:sign yeah that: I'm right with Steve here dont waste money on getting a premix as your paying twice as much. Any good name brand antifreeze will do, just dont get the orange dexcool type, green is the one :2cents:

Posted

Coolant

 

Unless you just like changing water pumps, do not use silicate-type antifreeze. Use Prestone or Texaco Long-Life formulas. They are silicate-free. You can spot them easily in the store, because they're orange, not green. Many coolant manufacturers add a silicate corrosion inhibitor to protect aluminum components. Silicate corrosion inhibitors work by depositing a "passivating" coating throughout the system. Unfortunately, silicates are also somewhat abrasive. If they drop out of suspension, they rapidly wear out water pump seals.

In the August, 1997 issue of MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS and then finalized in the November, 1997 issue, MCN detailed accounts of motorcyclists that encountered severe problems with mainly their water pumps if they were using antifreeze (coolants) that were designed for automobiles. "Our first findings were that the vast majority (98.7%) of pump failures occurred on bikes that had had their cooling systems flushed, or drained and refilled, within the past year. Secondly, of the bikes with failed pumps, 99% had been filled with automotive-type coolants, such as Prestone, Zerex or a house brand from some parts chain like Pep Boys. Less than 1% of the bikes with failed pumps had used pre-mixed Hondaline coolant or another motorcycle-specific anti-freeze." They went on to say that if you currently have automotive silicate bearing coolant in your bike now, get it out as soon as possible and replace it with a motorcycle-specific coolant like Hondaline Pro Honda HP Coolant.

 

Interesting. This article says DO get the orange, not the green. :bang head:

Posted

:sign yeah that: I'm right with Steve here dont waste money on getting a premix as your paying twice as much. Any good name brand antifreeze will do, just dont get the orange dexcool type, green is the one :2cents:

 

 

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Plus add a couple cap fulls of a water wetter just because... :)

Posted

I do not have a definitive answer, but I'll tell you what I have used without problems (and I do have a few miles on my 2005).

 

I am a fan of MCN, and I do remember that '97 article mentioned by okiestar. I cannot refute what they said in any way, but I will also say that we have had 10 years of technology development since then, and aluminum water pumps are VERY common in lots of vehicles these days.

 

I have only changed the coolant in my RSV one time - about 2 years and 50,000 miles ago. I used AutoZone Extended Life Antifreeze & Coolant. This stuff says it is compatible with any other existing coolant and is safe for "ANY make of car or light duty truck on the road, foreign or domestic." Now I know that doesn't say motorcycles, but frankly I cannot imagine that a modern water cooled motorcycle engine's water pump is so unique that there is not at least one foreign or domestic car engine that would have the same properties. So I took the chance and trusted their claim.

 

I have had zero problems, and my bike now has just about 100,000 miles on it.

 

I kinda doubt the color of the coolant makes any difference at all. MY 2000 Jag had an aluminum pump and came with orange long-life coolant. I know that Yamahaha coolant is a delightful bright shade of green that is just so darn pretty it must be worth the price they ask. This AutoZone stuff comes in an orange jug, but the coolant is yellow. It is now the coolant I use in all my vehicles. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

Posted

The way I understand it is, that a lot of motorcycle water pumps have pump vanes made of rubber that contact the pump walls, similar to an outboard motor WP. When you use a silicate based anti-freeze it grinds the silicates between the vane and housing causing wear and eventual pump failure.

 

Now if on the other hand, the RSV pump is of the non contact design, silicates should have no negative effects IMHO.

 

I have always used silicate free in all my bikes, never had a pump failure yet.

Posted
The way I understand it is, that a lot of motorcycle water pumps have pump vanes made of rubber that contact the pump walls, similar to an outboard motor WP. When you use a silicate based anti-freeze it grinds the silicates between the vane and housing causing wear and eventual pump failure.

 

Now if on the other hand, the RSV pump is of the non contact design, silicates should have no negative effects IMHO.

 

I have always used silicate free in all my bikes, never had a pump failure yet.

 

The RSV water pump has no rubber vanes or vanes of any sort. Use whatever anti-freeze you like. I do.

 

:farmer:

Posted
The RSV water pump has no rubber vanes or vanes of any sort. Use whatever anti-freeze you like. I do.

 

 

Or impellars like an OB. Early 1stGens originally were plastic, but were replaced with a metal vane....

Posted
The RSV water pump has no rubber vanes or vanes of any sort. Use whatever anti-freeze you like. I do.

 

:farmer:

 

That's good to know. Been using what I use for so long, don't see myself changin now. Both types cost about the same, unless, you use a MC specific coolant then you need to bend over as you take it off the shelf .

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