headlight problem, no hi, no low

[frankc]

Good afternoon everyone,

 

Both hi and low beam on my 08 RSV went out last week. I have been reading the threads on this problem and have done the starter switch lube and fuse checking. I have read there might be a possibility of the Reserve Light Unit going bad but how often is this a problem? I'm not sure as to what direction to take at this point. Its difficult to get to the headlight lamp but is it possible for both hi and low to go bad in one lamp? Any suggestions would be helpful. By the way, everything else is working fine, it's just the headlight.

 

Thanks

Frank

[Flyinfool]

Yes it is very possible for both the HI and Low to go out together.

What can happen is that when one of the filaments breaks it will contact the other filament and short it out or even just damage it from contact.

[royalstarjac]

Replace the bulb with an H4 silverstar. Takes 10 minutes. If that doesn't fix it, and your fuses are good, take it to the dealer, it's under warranty.

[wes0778]

Replace the bulb with an H4 silverstar. Takes 10 minutes. If that doesn't fix it, and your fuses are good, take it to the dealer, it's under warranty.

 

Just be sure you get the Silverstar Ultra!!!

[Sylvester]

Just be sure you get the Silverstar Ultra!!!

 

Why the Ultra? It has a proven short term life and can leave you without lighting. The regular Silverstar give very good lighting without the short life span. I have had my Silverstar for three years without a problem.

 

[Dave77459]

Why the Ultra? It has a proven short term life and can leave you without lighting. The regular Silverstar give very good lighting without the short life span. I have had my Silverstar for three years without a problem.

 

I understood the Ultra was heavier duty. I've had my Ultra for almost 50,000 miles without problem.

 

Dave

[frankc]

ok, i performed all the preliminary tests like fuse, hi low switch, starter switch lube and found i still have no power at the headlight connector. Could it possibly be the Reserve switch thats defective? As last resort id take it to the Stealer but if i can fix it myself with all you're help, i would rather do that. I know its still under warranty but the dealer is a long way. Thanks

[LilBeaver]

ok, i performed all the preliminary tests like fuse, hi low switch, starter switch lube and found i still have no power at the headlight connector. Could it possibly be the Reserve switch thats defective? As last resort id take it to the Stealer but if i can fix it myself with all you're help, i would rather do that. I know its still under warranty but the dealer is a long way. Thanks

 

Reserve switch? Like when your headlight is running low on fluid so you can switch it over to reserve and still go a little further? :stickpoke: Okay, So I have no idea what you mean by the reserve switch - but that beside the point.

 

Kidding aside a little clarification on these points ought to help diagnose your problem.

1) You checked the Hi/low switch - How did you do this? Did you check for continuity at the connector? Disassemble and visually inspect? etc

-- With mine, I had found that if I push it about half way my headlamp goes out completely. I disassembled the housing and cleaned the contacts, and it works like a charm now.

 

2) You checked the fuse - did you visually inspect the fuse or put a known good one in to verify that it isn't working properly? If all you did was visually inspect it, I would suggest replacing with a known good fuse just to verify it isn't the fuse.

3) While you are in the fuse box, look very carefully for any buildup of corrosion, etc You could also take a voltage measurement at the fuse box with the key in the ON position to see if you are getting power to the box.

 

4) If your switch has continuity on both high and low the next thing I would check would be at the headlamp connector itself. Go there and probe the voltage between the Positive side of the connector and a ground on the bike somewhere (that isn't in the headlamp connector). This will check to see if the problem exists BEFORE or AFTER the headlamp wiring (ie between headlamp and ground).

You could also check for continuity between the Positive lead on the headlamp connector with the fuse box it self. Again, this ought to help isolate where an electrical problem may be.

 

5) Lastly, after a quick inspection of the wiring diagrams (thanks Dingy, awesome job!) I don't see any relay or anything for the headlamp - so this circuity ought to be relatively easy to trace. BUT, if the problem exists in one of the main harness or whatever, I would definitely suggest letting the dealer replace that puppy under warranty.

 

Hope this make some sense.

 

[royalstarjac]

Have you been inside the fairing installing any accessories? Passing lamps for example? Or a headlight modulator?

[frankc]

Yamaha included a silly device called a Reserve Lighting Unit that will automatically switch your headlight to Hi-beam if your lo-beam burns out. It also lights up an idiot light to tell you that your headlight is out. If this unit fails you won't have either lo-beam or hi-beam and your idiot light won't even work.>>

 

This is from another post so i dont even know if my 08 has one of these but this is my exact problem, no hi, no low, no indicator.

 

so i checked the fuse with a test light and both sides are hot, i sprayed contact cleaner in both the hi low switch and start button. i did not take them apart. i checked the connector at the headlight and there is no power to either side. the connector is not melted in any way

 

i installed driving lights about a year ago and had the fairing off. i followed Yamaha's instructions and spliced into the wires.

 

i thought this would be easier to find than this, its just too bad the dealer is so far away. ill give it a few more tries before i give up.

 

thanks for your help

[LilBeaver]

Yamaha included a silly device called a Reserve Lighting Unit that will automatically switch your headlight to Hi-beam if your lo-beam burns out. It also lights up an idiot light to tell you that your headlight is out. If this unit fails you won't have either lo-beam or hi-beam and your idiot light won't even work.>>

 

This is from another post so i dont even know if my 08 has one of these but this is my exact problem, no hi, no low, no indicator.

 

so i checked the fuse with a test light and both sides are hot, i sprayed contact cleaner in both the hi low switch and start button. i did not take them apart. i checked the connector at the headlight and there is no power to either side. the connector is not melted in any way

 

i installed driving lights about a year ago and had the fairing off. i followed Yamaha's instructions and spliced into the wires.

 

i thought this would be easier to find than this, its just too bad the dealer is so far away. ill give it a few more tries before i give up.

 

thanks for your help

 

 

Huh, interesting about the 'reserve lighting unit'. As far as I know the 2nd gen does not have that installed (at least from OEM).

 

If your test light comes on at the fuse panel but not at the headlamp connector you have no power at the headlamp then you have a short to ground somewhere between the two or there is a break in continuity between the headlamp and the rest of the circuit.

 

Do your passing lamps come on?

 

*** OH - Check where you spliced your lamps in to the headlamp circuit. My guess is something came loose in there.

 

If that is a no go, my suggestion would be to go ahead and test at the switch and see if you have power passing through the switch.

 

[naturbar]

If your test light comes on at the fuse panel but not at the headlamp connector you have no power at the headlamp then you have a short to ground somewhere between the two or there is a break in continuity between the headlamp and the rest of the circuit.

 

 

not to pick......but if there were a short to ground between fuse panel and the headlamp circuit then you would surely have a blown fuse..... on the other hand i completely agree that there may be something 'open' in there...just my penny's worth.

another suggestion (the old fashioned way) either remove the headlamp or if lamp is in place......run a hot wire from battery to center conductor on bulb and a ground to casing of bulb, if lamp is good it will illuminate if not then replace the lamp....otherwise work backwards from the lamp connector until you find where you are loosing power. also make certain you have a ground to your lamp...... just some thoughts

Edited November 16, 2010 by naturbar

[royalstarjac]

Doesn't the juice for the headlight also run thru the ignition switch? That is the reason many who install the passing lamps use a relay and draw power directly from the battery so as not to overload the ignition switch which is prone to overheating and failure.

 

There is also a circuit somewhere that turns the headlight off when the starter button is pressed. I'm not sure where it is though.

[LilBeaver]

If your test light comes on at the fuse panel but not at the headlamp connector you have no power at the headlamp then you have a short to ground somewhere between the two or there is a break in continuity between the headlamp and the rest of the circuit.

 

 

not to pick......but if there were a short to ground between fuse panel and the headlamp circuit then you would surely have a blown fuse..... on the other hand i completely agree that there may be something 'open' in there...just my penny's worth.

another suggestion (the old fashioned way) either remove the headlamp or if lamp is in place......run a hot wire from battery to center conductor on bulb and a ground to casing of bulb, if lamp is good it will illuminate if not then replace the lamp....otherwise work backwards from the lamp connector until you find where you are loosing power. also make certain you have a ground to your lamp...... just some thoughts

 

- You are correct. I should have been more careful with my statement. The point has been made though so I won't re-hash it just to prove that I can type a lot of words.

- Running a lead straight from the battery to he headlamp harness would be a good idea - that could conclusively determine whether the headlight harness/jack/socket (whatever you want to call it) is functional or not.

 

Doesn't the juice for the headlight also run thru the ignition switch? That is the reason many who install the passing lamps use a relay and draw power directly from the battery so as not to overload the ignition switch which is prone to overheating and failure.

 

There is also a circuit somewhere that turns the headlight off when the starter button is pressed. I'm not sure where it is though.

 

- The 'headlight off while the starter button is pressed' is NOT a standard option on the 2nd gen. Some have re-wired appropriately, but, as an OEM configuration it is not setup that way.

 

- The current for the headlight DOES go through the ignition. So does the current for the radio, amp, dash lights, signals, etc. SO, if it was an ignition switch problem he would not have power to the noted accessories in addition to the headlamp.

[naturbar]

Reserve switch? Like when your headlight is running low on fluid so you can switch it over to reserve and still go a little further? :stickpoke: Okay, So I have no idea what you mean by the reserve switch - but that beside the point.

 

Kidding aside a little clarification on these points ought to help diagnose your problem.

1) You checked the Hi/low switch - How did you do this? Did you check for continuity at the connector? Disassemble and visually inspect? etc

-- With mine, I had found that if I push it about half way my headlamp goes out completely. I disassembled the housing and cleaned the contacts, and it works like a charm now.

 

2) You checked the fuse - did you visually inspect the fuse or put a known good one in to verify that it isn't working properly? If all you did was visually inspect it, I would suggest replacing with a known good fuse just to verify it isn't the fuse.

3) While you are in the fuse box, look very carefully for any buildup of corrosion, etc You could also take a voltage measurement at the fuse box with the key in the ON position to see if you are getting power to the box.

 

4) If your switch has continuity on both high and low the next thing I would check would be at the headlamp connector itself. Go there and probe the voltage between the Positive side of the connector and a ground on the bike somewhere (that isn't in the headlamp connector). This will check to see if the problem exists BEFORE or AFTER the headlamp wiring (ie between headlamp and ground).

You could also check for continuity between the Positive lead on the headlamp connector with the fuse box it self. Again, this ought to help isolate where an electrical problem may be.

 

5) Lastly, after a quick inspection of the wiring diagrams (thanks Dingy, awesome job!) I don't see any relay or anything for the headlamp - so this circuity ought to be relatively easy to trace. BUT, if the problem exists in one of the main harness or whatever, I would definitely suggest letting the dealer replace that puppy under warranty.

 

Hope this make some sense.

 

went back and re read this post and i believe you covered the bases. as you stated you have an inline fuse (should have power both sides of fuse) - the output of fuse goes to the input side of hi/low thumb switch - depending in which position the switch is in you should have corresponding power out of that side of switch - then goes to the connector at lamp - from connector to lamp. all this as you stated lilbeaver is straight forward and should be easy to troubleshoot following your directions. as i see it you have either or several problems, i.e. 1) blown fuse - 2) open connection from fuse to hi/lo switch - 3) bad hi/lo switch - 4) open connection from hi/lo switch to headlamp connector - 5) poor or no connection thru the connector - 6) open ground to headlamp - 7) finally you may have a bad lamp...best of luck Frank....i believe you will figure it out.....

 

[dingy]

It appears from the schematic for the RSV that the headlight fuse also powers the front running lights and the tail light.

 

If these are working, then you have power through the fuse.

 

Below is a link to RSV schematics. The simplified version does not show all of the connectors that are contained in the wiring harness. Functionally, it is identical to the full schematic though.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357

 

Gary

[Panjandrum]

 

There is also a circuit somewhere that turns the headlight off when the starter button is pressed. I'm not sure where it is though.

 

When I had my running lights installed on my 08 RSV, I was told that the Venture does not have this feature. My Honda ST 1100 did, and when both my hi and lo beams went out, the answer was WD40 into the starter switch, which was not fully releasing, and therefore left the headlight off.

[wes0778]

It appears from the schematic for the RSV that the headlight fuse also powers the front running lights and the tail light.

 

If these are working, then you have power through the fuse.

 

Below is a link to RSV schematics. The simplified version does not show all of the connectors that are contained in the wiring harness. Functionally, it is identical to the full schematic though.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357

 

Gary

 

What may be confusing (was to me) is the main headlight wire coming into the fairing is R/Y (Red and yellow) to one of the white plugs but leaves that plug (going to the dimmer switch) as L/B (Blue and black). That R/Y wire should have 12V to it when the ignition switch is on.

As mentioned before, the headlight fuse also protects the running/tail lights, so if they are on the headlight fuse is OK. If the running/tail lights are on and there is still no power to the R/Y wire, instead of chasing wires in the harnesses, now might be a good time to put the headlight (and passing lights if you have them) on relays.

Just my

[MikeWa]

Power flow is main switch to headlight fuse to dimmer switch to headlight to ground. There is no reserve in the wiring diagram or service manual. Something is unplugged, a wire is broken, or dimmer switch or headlight is burned out. Since the tail light is working and is also powered from the headlight fuse. My guess is something is unplugged or someone crossed plugged something.

Mike

[dingy]

What may be confusing (was to me) is the main headlight wire coming into the fairing is R/Y (Red and yellow) to one of the white plugs but leaves that plug (going to the dimmer switch) as L/B (Blue and black). That R/Y wire should have 12V to it when the ignition switch is on.

As mentioned before, the headlight fuse also protects the running/tail lights, so if they are on the headlight fuse is OK. If the running/tail lights are on and there is still no power to the R/Y wire, instead of chasing wires in the harnesses, now might be a good time to put the headlight (and passing lights if you have them) on relays.

Just my

 

On the simplified diagram, this color wiring color change is not real obvious. I tried to put the wire color near the switch when it changed, but you wouldn't realized the point where it changed unless you looked at the full schematic. There I did note at the connectors, the wire color on each side of plug.

 

Also I have no way of knowing where in the harness the wire tie points are. In the headlight circuit for example, at some point the R/Y wire is tied to the L wire feeding the running/tail lights. This is a crimp connection somewhere under the harness covering. It should be between the left handlebar connectors and the sub harness E connector. This may also be the source of some problems. In this case, I doubt it is though, due to the R/Y wire is straight through.

 

There are really only five main problem points that should affect both high & low beams if the tail lights are operating.

 

1st - bad ground for headlight bulb (this could be at the E sub harness connector, the front flasher ground is tied through this connection. If they are working, this probably is good.

2nd -bad head light bulb

3rd - bad dimmer switch

4th - bad connectors to left handle bar (power is in one and feed to bulbs is in other 6 pin connectors.

5th - bad head light connector

 

If fuse is determined to be good, I would first try to put energy directly to bulb and verify it is working, preferably pulled from holder.

 

If it is good, then take power readings at the two (6) pin connectors going to left handlebar. The Blue connector has a G (green - low beam) & a Y (yellow - high beam) wire in it. See if you have 12V+ on these. If not, check other 6 pin connector and see if there is 12V+ on the R/Y (red/yellow) wire.

 

Gary

[frankc]

OK, here is what i know for fact, the headlight fuse has power on both sides with the ignition switch on. The connector from the headlight itself has no power on either hi or low side. Ground is good from the connector. No signs of burnt or melted connector.

 

Does the power from the fuse go directly to the hi low switch? If so it almost has to be the switch or the supply wire to the switch. Ill take the hi low switch apart and start my probing from there. It sounds like the circut should be pretty easy to follow if there's no other Yamaha crap relays in between.

 

I think im on the right path now. I'll let everyone know what i find!

 

Thanks.

[dingy]

The power from the fuse goes to one of the 6 pin connectors that goes to left handle bar switch, then it goes through the dimmer switch, then comes back from the handle bar to another 6 pin connector (blue one I believe), then onto the head light 3 prong connector.

Gary

[frankc]

Gary,

 

Are the connectors visible from the outside or do i have to remove the gas tank? Excellent schematic by the way. I'm real close to fixing this one cause i'm right in the area i need to be. Its either the switch or the supply to the switch. All I need to do now is follow the power.

 

Thanks

Frank

[dingy]

Gary,

 

Are the connectors visible from the outside or do i have to remove the gas tank? Excellent schematic by the way. I'm real close to fixing this one cause i'm right in the area i need to be. Its either the switch or the supply to the switch. All I need to do now is follow the power.

 

Thanks

Frank

 

Can't help you with location Frank, I don't have access to an RSV.

 

Gary

[frankc]

Good morning everyone,

 

Well the weather is finally nice enough to hunt down my headlight problem. I've been thinking about it for a while now and with all of your suggestions i decided to tackle this problem yesterday. Like i said before the fuse was good, i had power to both sides so i went directly to the switch. As soon as I pulled it apart...there it was. Somehow the hot wire came loose from the switch. Soldered it back on and .........Batta Bing...Batta...Boom I had both high and low beam. Total time invested about 1/2 hour.

 

I'm a happy man. Thank You all so very much for all of your suggestions. With input like this who needs the Stealers (except to pay for warranty).

 

This sight is a volume of knowledge and very smart people.

 

Thanks Again

Frank