Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I need the advise from someone withe experience with installing these slipons. Just returned from the garage where I thought I would "slipon" my new set of Jardines. As you would have it, nothing is that easy. The problem I have encountered is that the od of the collector where the stock muffler attaches is what I measured to be 1 1/2 inch and the id of the Jardine seems to be about 1 3/4". Therefore, if these slipons are really slipons; too bad they will fall the hell off. Someone must have run into the same problem and can tell me there is a simple solution. What I am thinking is to try to insert a spacer that would reduce the id by 1/4 inch. Seems like the reducer would come with the Jardines. Has anyone run into the same problem and how did you handle it? Any advise would be greatly appreciated

 

 

 

 

 

.:sign09::sign67:

Posted

OMG! I sure did. Are these gaskets copper colored? I don't imagine I could use the old ones. That is if I could even remove them from the old mufflers? But never the less, I sure do appreciate your help. I just looked up the part number for the gaskets and will be ordering them in the morning. Again, thank you so much.

Posted
OMG! I sure did. Are these gaskets copper colored? I don't imagine I could use the old ones. That is if I could even remove them from the old mufflers? But never the less, I sure do appreciate your help. I just looked up the part number for the gaskets and will be ordering them in the morning. Again, thank you so much.

 

Yup the older ones are copper colored, more durable than the newer ones too.

Posted

The last I heard, those gaskets are a little on the pricey side at Yamamomma. With a little care, you may be able to use the old ones. I put Jardines on my 83 about 10 years ago and they are still in very good shape. I really like the way they sound, even though they may be a little louder than when they were new.

RandyA

Posted

Just replaced my gaskets when fixing my canister rattle, were 12.00 each at the dealer. You may notice also the centerstand will be lower due to the rubber bumper on the muffler. This can cause dragging issues at lower air pressures on the left side depending on how you ride. Am currently running without the rubber looking for something thinner to replace it, as I need the extra clearance. Like the mufflers other than that. Would be interested to know if you have to rejet or adjust carbs with them.

Posted

I just placed the order for the gasket with what you guys refer to as Yammamama; I guess that's the dealer. And you were right, they are 12 something each. I just hope they get here quickly. Anyway, I will let everyone know not only about the jetting, but the doggone centerstand. Since I don't have the Jardines on yet, I was even aware that the center stand being another issue. I did, however, notice the rubber stops for the center stand that sort of "plug into" special brakets on the Jardines (and the stock pipes for that matter) are about 3/4 inch thick. Have you tried cutting them down to create more clearance? I will be looking to do exactly that.

 

Have a good one and keep the greasy side down.

Posted

I've got jardines on my '83. I had the same problem at first...the rubber bumper kept the centerstand low enough to drag pretty easily in a left turn. So I finally just took the bumper off. With it off, the centerstand is at just about the stock position, and the spring holding it up isn't putting a lot of pressure on it. No problems with it rattling. I wrapped some electrical tape around where the bumper attaches, that area doesn't seem to get hot.

Posted
Denden, That sounds good to me. I'll most likely do the same thing. How bout jetting? Did you have to rejet and if so, to what?

No jetting changes necessary, going from stock mufflers to Jardines.

Posted

My only concern with out the rubber stopper is damaging the chrome on the muffler when coming off the stand. Where it hits is not visible but if the chrome starts degrading on that little tab, where will it stop?

Posted
My only concern with out the rubber stopper is damaging the chrome on the muffler when coming off the stand. Where it hits is not visible but if the chrome starts degrading on that little tab, where will it stop?

Well, that's why I wrapped it with electrical tape. I replace the tape, maybe once a year or so. Hasn't been a problem. Chrome still good. In fact, the Jardine chrome is some very high quality stuff. Mine still look like new after maybe 7 or 8 years. One exception is where the mounting tabs are welded on to the muffler body. I had to re-paint that weld, after about 5 years there was a little rust there.

Posted

Thanks!!! Thought about doing that but wasnt sure of the heat factor. Will do now. Also noticed the chrome at the joint needs more frequent cleaning. Also thought about paint when it becomes noticeable from distance. Great minds think alike I guess!

Posted

I took a piece of an old bicycle inner tube. stuck it on the center stand where it makes contact with the muffler. I held it in place with some grip glue and used black wire ties to hold it on. It's been there for two years without a problem so far.

 

Dave

Posted

I took both of my mufflers off and used a cut off grinder and cut a hole on the back side of the mufflers and gutted the insides and welded back up. You can't see the weld and sounds great.

Posted

Yes, I am begining to think my bike rides lower than many. Replacing front springs is on the list, they are soft without max air, and will bottom even with the front brake anti dive activated.

 

Possible the rear is the same way. It feels lower than the 91 I had and heavier coming off the stand.

 

No history of if the po lowered it or anything. People

have commented it probably has several hundred pounds of safety chrome on it! And I am hardly a lightweight.

 

It sure doesnt handle the twisties

like springs a gone but believe it is part of the dragging sidestand issue.

Posted

No Gearhead I didn't take any pictures, sorry, but I did gut the entire muffler. I just cut about a 8 inch C in the back and bent it down. I had to drill out a few tack welds to open the window and used a small cutting torch to gut the inside. You have to be careful not to heat the shell or you will blue the chrome. The one on the very rear of the muffler you just drill out the tack welds, which are on the back of the muffler, cut off the very end of the muffler and pull of the tip. Then you can cut off the very rear baffle. You may want to leave this rear one on if you want it a little quiter. It gives a good tone with all the baffles out but is suprisingly quit at cruising speeds. All the welds are on the back side of the muffler and are not visible. This is the second one I have owned and done this way.

Posted

Ctraylor, when you jump on the throttle is it pretty loud?

 

Bigin, I'm thinking that the springs on these bikes were soft from the factory, and 20 years on the road hasn't helped any. When I got my 87, both ends had to be on max pressure to achieve a decent static sag (a measure of how much wheel travel you use just sitting there). And with a full-sized passenger on the back, the rear sag really, well, sagged. Progressive suspension front and rear solved the problem. Front end was cheap, around 50 bucks. Rear not so cheap.

 

Jeremy

Posted

Yes, I think we are correct. I will start shopping for bargain priced fork springs then see where I'm at before doing the rear.I have been in the forks, what kind of a job was the rear?

Posted

Well ladies and gentlemen; I must report that I finallly had the time to finish installing the Jardines. While I was at it, I also installed a K&N air filter, new plugs, new Avons and even had the wheels with the new tires balanced. Took it out for a test and, WOW, what a difference. This thing is kinda scary now. The increase in power to the real wheel is absolutely incredible. And rejetting doesn't seem to be necessary are the plugs look great after 100 miles or so. And the sound! When under hard accelleration, it sounds like a small block Chevy with headers. Well, that is what it reminds me of anyway. One problem with the whole setup; now I sometimes can get the clutch to slip in 4th and 5th gear. Didn't slip before and all I can attribute the slippage to is the added power. So, I have just ordered a Barnett kit and will be installing that as soon as it arrives and I have the time. I just wanted to let everyone know how great these pipes are.

 

See ya!

Posted

Bigin,

 

Best prices were at MAW a few months ago. Progressive fork springs were around 50 bucks there, and the rear replacement shock assy from Progressive was $335 at MAW, much better than anywhere else. There is another option on the rear. If you shock is OK, not leaking, then Progressive makes a replacement spring for it, to be installed on the original shock in place of the stock spring. They sell it direct for $95. Buckeye Performance also handles those springs; there seems to be no other outlet for them.

 

The rear isn't too hard, just a bit of a pain. I removed all the links while in there and greased all the bushings.

 

Jeremy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...