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Posted

Car Wax. Pledge is fine for those quick touch ups between real detail jobs but will not last and protect like real car wax. Just make sure that you use one that is formulated for clear coated paint jobs.

Posted

Just as a note, there really isn't any such thing as clear coat wax. Oh, manufacturers label it as such, but paint is paint. Clearcoat is nothing more than paint without pigment. You care for it the same way you would any paint. Any product that is good for regular paint will work fine with clearcoat.

 

so called "clearcoat safe" products are a creation of the wax industry to sell you a new shelf full of products when clearcoat paints started becoming popular in the 80's.

 

With any paint finish you want to stay away from aggressive "cleaners" and use NOTHING that has the word "compound" on it. If your paint is in good shape, stay way from anything that says it removes serious haze or swirl marks.

 

Some products that will remove swirl and haze are OK to use, but use them on finishes that actually have some of that damage. If your paint looks perfect after washing, you want to use a pure wax with ZERO abrasive. I prefer a carnauba wax, but some of the newer polymer waxes are also OK.

Posted

Great info, Don. Thanks!

Just as a note, there really isn't any such thing as clear coat wax. Oh, manufacturers label it as such, but paint is paint. Clearcoat is nothing more than paint without pigment. You care for it the same way you would any paint. Any product that is good for regular paint will work fine with clearcoat.

 

so called "clearcoat safe" products are a creation of the wax industry to sell you a new shelf full of products when clearcoat paints started becoming popular in the 80's.

 

With any paint finish you want to stay away from aggressive "cleaners" and use NOTHING that has the word "compound" on it. If your paint is in good shape, stay way from anything that says it removes serious haze or swirl marks.

 

Some products that will remove swirl and haze are OK to use, but use them on finishes that actually have some of that damage. If your paint looks perfect after washing, you want to use a pure wax with ZERO abrasive. I prefer a carnauba wax, but some of the newer polymer waxes are also OK.

Posted

I wash the bike once a week...whether it needs it or not...

 

Anyway....today I "clayed" the scoot after washing it...WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

 

I finished up with two coats of Maguiar's carnuba wax....Man...does that stuff SHINE! :)

 

Tried Pledge a week after I bought the bike...wasn't pleased with how it looked...so I switched to the Meguiar's.

 

Just my 1/2 cent...

Posted

A good Brillo pad and a can of Powdered Ajax should do it ..sorta brings out that shine your looking for.

 

Ok, ok, ok....:sign13::sign just kidding::sign just kidding::sign just kidding:

Posted
Just as a note, there really isn't any such thing as clear coat wax. Oh, manufacturers label it as such, but paint is paint. Clearcoat is nothing more than paint without pigment. You care for it the same way you would any paint. Any product that is good for regular paint will work fine with clearcoat.

 

so called "clearcoat safe" products are a creation of the wax industry to sell you a new shelf full of products when clearcoat paints started becoming popular in the 80's.

 

With any paint finish you want to stay away from aggressive "cleaners" and use NOTHING that has the word "compound" on it. If your paint is in good shape, stay way from anything that says it removes serious haze or swirl marks.

 

Some products that will remove swirl and haze are OK to use, but use them on finishes that actually have some of that damage. If your paint looks perfect after washing, you want to use a pure wax with ZERO abrasive. I prefer a carnauba wax, but some of the newer polymer waxes are also OK.

 

Wax doesn't not have UV protectants, and can allow clear coat to yellow. Technically you shouldn't use wax on clear coat, (although most modern products are labeled wax even though they aren't) you should us a polymer cleaner/protectant. And you should not use a polish on clear coat as polishes have abrasives for blending out scratches in paint which can scratch and dull clear coat. The best I have found is Zaino, but it is expensive and a bit of work to use. I generally use Turtle Wax Ice, cheap and easy to use. But I still use Pledge on the windshield.

Posted
A good Brillo pad and a can of Powdered Ajax should do it ..sorta brings out that shine your looking for.

 

Ok, ok, ok....:sign13::sign just kidding::sign just kidding::sign just kidding:

 

That's only for them GWs what are rode in Alabama!

They need that shine :stirthepot:

MIKE aka Uturn

:Venture:

Posted

I only use RejeX.

 

I use it on all smooth surfces on my bike and cars to inclue:

 

Paint

 

Windshield

 

turn signals

 

head lights

 

Chrome

 

ETC....

 

 

 

http://www.corrosionx.com/gifs/Rejex.jpg

 

Click HERE to read more at the manufactures website.

 

 

Of all the waxes, polishes, coating, etc I have ever used this is my favorite. I only apply it twice a year and the water runs off like a RainXed windshield......with a LOT less work on my part...

Posted

With all due respect, NOT the "dont' use abrasives" stuff from Zaino. Zaino makes decent stuff, but the amount of work/cost/value equation just doesn't work for me. I have bought it and tried it.

 

As for abrasives dulling clearcoat? What do you think all....ALL eyeglasses are made with? How about ALL telescopes, microscope lenses and EVERY SHOW CAR paint job? WITH Clearcoat? All of them are finished with abrasives. Very fine abrasives.

 

A fine polish or glaze will bring out the shine in anything, and no, a good wax, carnauba especially will NOT yellow clearcoat. Some "yellow" carnauba waxes might show a tiny bit of the color, but the best carnauba is NOT yellow.

 

A little logic goes a long way when dealing with the myths and wrong info going around in the name of selling wax and other products. Check with the people that paint vehicles for a living, they will confirm, you treat clearcoat the same as any other paint. If you want it to be show car smooth, you have to polish it with abrasives, and it can turn out like a mirror. Most factory finishes are sprayed and baked, and virtually all of them have orange peel, and NO wax will take that out, that is why all true show car finishes are sprayed, and sanded and buffed.

Posted

I have seen the process of professionally "claying" a vehicle on television, and it was pretty interesting. For those not familiar with the process, it's kind of like what we used to do when we were kids with Silly Putty and the Sunday funnies. The process is supposed to lift road-grime out of the pores of the paint. And, from what I saw on TV, it looks like it works really well. What I wonder though, is would the results be noticeably different on a black (Midnight Venture kinda black), paint job. Typically, I keep my bike obsessively cleaned and polished anyway, but would "claying" on an already really clean, black bike make any worthwhile difference. If it doesn't, I don't want to waste the money. That detailing clay is expensive.

 

Thanks!

Pete.

Posted

The Meguiars detail clay kit is ~$20.00...which includes two clay bars, microfiber towel, and the detailing mist. A single clay bar can last indefinitely...unless you drop it. If you drop it...throw it AWAY!

 

RE: Keeping it clean...I wash my bike weekly. It's unfortunate...but washing doesn't get rid of all contaminates. The only way to really tell if you need to clay is with your hand!

 

Wash bike as normal...dry as normal. Run your hand lightly across the surface...if the surface feels "rough" (or not smooth as a baby's....), you should detail with the clay. You can almost hear the roughness as you move your hand across the surface.

 

After claying, you will notice an immediate difference in the surface! Wax as normal...I use Maguiars Carnuba (liquid).

 

Color doesn;t matter...you can't see the surface contaminates.

 

Video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI]YouTube - How to Clay Bar[/ame]

Posted
With all due respect, NOT the "dont' use abrasives" stuff from Zaino. Zaino makes decent stuff, but the amount of work/cost/value equation just doesn't work for me. I have bought it and tried it.

 

As for abrasives dulling clearcoat? What do you think all....ALL eyeglasses are made with? How about ALL telescopes, microscope lenses and EVERY SHOW CAR paint job? WITH Clearcoat? All of them are finished with abrasives. Very fine abrasives.

 

A fine polish or glaze will bring out the shine in anything, and no, a good wax, carnauba especially will NOT yellow clearcoat. Some "yellow" carnauba waxes might show a tiny bit of the color, but the best carnauba is NOT yellow.

 

A little logic goes a long way when dealing with the myths and wrong info going around in the name of selling wax and other products. Check with the people that paint vehicles for a living, they will confirm, you treat clearcoat the same as any other paint. If you want it to be show car smooth, you have to polish it with abrasives, and it can turn out like a mirror. Most factory finishes are sprayed and baked, and virtually all of them have orange peel, and NO wax will take that out, that is why all true show car finishes are sprayed, and sanded and buffed.

 

Yes!!!! I used it for many years when I had a sports car, and a friend in the same car club won many trophies at shows using Zaino, it works.. Yes it is a bit labor intensive, but come on, you say you use carnauba wax!!!!! It is not half as much work at that!!!!

 

And we are talking about average users, with off the shelf polishes, not VERY FINE abrasive polishes that professional painters use.

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