noahzark Posted November 3, 2007 #1 Posted November 3, 2007 Pardon me if this question has been answered before, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. I have a 2003 RSV. I am 6' 6" tall and have a problem with the handlebars hitting my knees when I'm in a slow-speed full-lock turn. Actually, it's the brake and clutch levers that limit the turning capability. I don't need much clearance, but adjusting the levers would take more than I want to do with them. My question is this, will 4" straight risers work on the RSV--that is, will they clear the faring? How about pullback risers, are they better for this purpose? I notice some of the riser advertisements say no new cables or lines needed. It seems to me that these would have to be changed. I'm currently looking at straight 4" risers from JC Penny (cheap in case they don't work) and would appreciate any information anyone can provide. One other thing, I don't need the bars any closer to my body than they currently are, so maybe a 2.5" riser would work better? By the way, the bars are too close to the fairing now to get enough height to eliminate this problem. Thanks.
Midrsv Posted November 3, 2007 #2 Posted November 3, 2007 I have the Baron's risers that pull the bars back and up about 1.5 inches. With the risers on you could rotate the bar up a little higher than stock. I didn't have to change my control lines. Here is a link to the Barons site: http://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/777/index.html DT
RickH Posted November 3, 2007 #3 Posted November 3, 2007 FYI: Most of my taller customers do both the Flanders upgrade with the risers. The Barons and Genmar (I think is the other riser) are the only ones I know of that fit the RSV. Both will contact the top cover on the tank at full lock.
noahzark Posted November 3, 2007 Author #4 Posted November 3, 2007 Thanks for the information. I'll take a look at the sites.
noahzark Posted November 3, 2007 Author #5 Posted November 3, 2007 Both will contact the top cover on the tank at full lock. Not sure I fully understand what you're saying. Will the bars with the risers hit the front of the tank in a full lock turn (instead of my knees)?
SaltyDawg Posted November 3, 2007 #6 Posted November 3, 2007 Not sure I fully understand what you're saying. Will the bars with the risers hit the front of the tank in a full lock turn (instead of my knees)? Actually what he is talking about is the risers hitting the plastic piece surrounding the ignition switch. As long as you don't have the chrome piece it won't matter since the plastic gives enough to not get damaged.
stardbog Posted November 3, 2007 #7 Posted November 3, 2007 Some Guys, If I' remember corecly, use deep sockets and longer screws to rise handlebars. Only if you dont mind ti have Kraftstmans logo Vs. Baron's
noahzark Posted November 3, 2007 Author #8 Posted November 3, 2007 Actually what he is talking about is the risers hitting the plastic piece surrounding the ignition switch. As long as you don't have the chrome piece it won't matter since the plastic gives enough to not get damaged. No chrome. Thanks.
noahzark Posted November 3, 2007 Author #9 Posted November 3, 2007 Some Guys, If I' remember corecly, use deep sockets and longer screws to rise handlebars. Only if you dont mind ti have Krafistmans logo Vs. Baron's I like Craftsman, but not sure I want to trust them with control of my ride.
KiteSquid Posted November 4, 2007 #10 Posted November 4, 2007 I am also 6'6" tall and have a 36" inseam... I am contemplating putting a shim between the fairing and its upper mount, rotating the fairing a little more vertical, allowing me to rotate the stock bars more upright. Also I might go to Kuryakyn Iso-Grips, and loose the weights on the bars, to shorten them about 2".... I notice it more on my right leg than my left leg, so I might also think about a way to move the rear brake pedal more forward, to lower my thigh in low speed maneuvering..... I don't think I want to try to tweak the stock handlebars, but it is worth looking at. There are a few issues with being vertically endowed.
Orrin Posted November 4, 2007 #11 Posted November 4, 2007 Flanders makes several different types of handel bars. They are great quality and work well on my RSTD. You may have to change cables and lines though to get what you want, but it will be worth it. do a search for Flanders and you should come up with more than enough information
noahzark Posted November 4, 2007 Author #12 Posted November 4, 2007 Thanks to all. I think I'm going to do this progressively: try the 1.5" risers suggested, then look at the Flanders bars if that doesn't work. As for shimming the fairing, you may be onto something, but I had the fairing off a couple weeks ago and I ain't screwin' with that thing again. By the way, it is the levers that hit my knees and not the bars themselves, so removing the weights won't do anything for me. I don't want to change the position of the levers, though, as they feel "just right" now. And the last thing will be the deep well Craftsman sockets.
KiteSquid Posted November 5, 2007 #13 Posted November 5, 2007 It is the bar ends that hit my legs, I guess my controls are rotated more "up" than yours are... Whatever you do PLEASE post some photos of the before, when the controls hit your legs, the during, PLEASE show some photos of HOW you modified your bike, and the after, how the controls clear your legs. Us long legged folks would like to see some of the options available.
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