Washer under left side engine cover

[frankd]

I'm putting my 89 back together and I've had a slight case of brain fade. I'm not sure how the "special washer" underneath the center cover of the left side cover goes. I'm pretty sure just from looking at it that it goes in the way I show in the attached picture. Is this correct or do I have it backwards?? I've got it in so that the raised lip on the center opening is 'out'.

 

Frank

[bkuhr]

see post#7, install directions for stator cooling kit

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52939

 

In your picture your 'washer' needs to be turned around with flange IN

[Dano]

Rotor go back in OK Frank? Guess you got that puppy fired back up by now, huh. Let me know how that new starter clutch works for ya.

 

Dano

[frankd]

Brian,

 

Thanks for the information.....the directions for the cooling kit plainly show the washer in the other direction. I never thought about it before, but it looks to me like the main purpose of that washer is to move the oil that comes out of the bolt's hole against the cover so that it'll cool down before it's slung onto the stator by the rotor.

 

Dan,

 

I've got the rotor installed, and I wanted to try it out and make sure it started AND charged, but when I went to put on the back cover, I saw that I'd forgotten to clean the old gasket off of it. The gasket was a real bear so I had to soak it in gasket remover and soften it up. It worked, but by the time I got the plate cleaned up, I was out of ambition. Tomorrow I'll put on my earmuffs and start it up (open exhaust). I'll have to mount the shaft drive unit also and fill it up with oil first.

 

Frank

[frankd]

Well, it cranked, started, and charged. The starter drive worked perfectly and the stator charges great at low RPM. When the motor was cold and the idle would drop to about 400 rpm., you could see the voltmeter dip. When the engine warmed up and the idle rose to 1,000RPM, it was on 14 volts and you could see no movement when you blipped the throttle. On top of that there were no obvious oil leaks. I feel a whole lot better now.

 

The left side rear wheel bearing is on backorder, so the jury is still out on if I'll have to swap the rear tire onto the used wheel I bought. Our trip got moved back to the 2nd week of October, so I don't have to make that decision for a little bit. I've also got a new thermostat top cover that I've been meaning to change.....maybe I'll pull the right front exhaust pipe and change that.

 

Frank

[jasonm.]

Frank, your pickture shows the washer in BACKWARDS. CORRECT is for the sharp edges face inwards...away from you as you view.

Edited September 27, 2010 by jasonm.

[frankd]

Jason,

 

Yes, I turned it around before I put the center cover on. Brian warned me that I had it in backwards yesterday. Thanks for mentioning it.

 

Frank

[Keemez]

I too suffered the "now how in the heck was that thing IN there?" syndrome regarding this plate/washer since I've been down for about a month now. Too many things to remember all of them. Good thing I was able to find this thread without having to resort to asking fresh.

 

Nowthen, while I was at it I got to thinking... (I know..... a little bit of knowledge generally = danger/disaster). Is there any reason I shouldn't have enlarged the oil passage in the flywheel/crankshaft end bolt? I used the smallest drill bit I had, and the diameter of the hole is now approximately .092" / 2.35mm. I don't know what nominal was. I also chamfered it slightly. What surprised me was how easily my drillbit went through that material- I fully expected it to be harder than the hubs of Hades. Anyway, my thought is this: if "some" oil flowing through there is good, isn't "a little more" better? Thoughts?

[bkuhr]

I used the smallest drill bit I had, and the diameter of the hole is now approximately .092" / 2.35mm. I don't know what nominal was. Thoughts?

 

Extract from service bulletin in 83 parts manual

The cooling kit consists of two baffles plates to trap oil around the stator, a new rotor bolt with a hole which has been increased from 0.7mm to 1.0mm, and a shaft to prevent the hole in the bolt from plugging.

This bulletin also requires one of the mysterious “punch marks” on the engine

BTW, I still have a complete kit

[Keemez]

a new rotor bolt with a hole which has been increased from 0.7mm to 1.0mm,

 

Well, I just effectively doubled that. Guess she won't plug up now!

[bongobobny]

My concern now would be if you are getting enough velocity to spray the oil or is it now just pouring out of the hole. The larger the diameter of the oriface, the less pressure on the outlet of the oriface...

[Keemez]

My concern now would be if you are getting enough velocity to spray the oil or is it now just pouring out of the hole. The larger the diameter of the oriface, the less pressure on the outlet of the oriface...

 

 

Right you are, of course. But the drop in pressure = increase in volume. We're probably overthinking this. A 2mm hole is still pretty small, and it's not like the oil pump output goes diiiiiiiiirectly to that bolt as a first concern, ya know?

[Marcarl]

Right you are, of course. But the drop in pressure = increase in volume. We're probably overthinking this. A 2mm hole is still pretty small, and it's not like the oil pump output goes diiiiiiiiirectly to that bolt as a first concern, ya know?

My biggest concern would be too much of a drop in oil pressure, especially at low RPMs. Maybe it has lots of capacity,,, I wouldn't know, maybe would be a good thing to hook up a pressure gauge to find out. If you do, be prepared to see low pressure anyways.