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Posted

I searched, but couldn't really find a spot to post this. If it belongs elsewhere, please move.

 

Every time I've built or restored a vehicle, I always created a build thread on a appropriate forum to exhibit where the project started, show progress, get ideas from others, and keep track of what has been done. Since I plan on a partial tear down/restoration this winter, I guess it's time to do it again.

 

I bought this 1988 VR a little over a week ago, and I am quickly falling in love with it. I've ridden it about a half dozen times, for about 300 miles or a little more. She didn't want to idle without being half choked when I picked her up, but adding 6 oz of Sea Foam to a 3/4 full tank seems to have mostly solved that. It will idle all day without any choke after it has warmed to operating temperature now. It's super comfortable and is perfect for riding 2-up with my 13 year old son. Not bad at all for $2500.

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/001.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/003.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/002.jpg

 

So, it's a 22 year old bike, and it's in pretty good shape, with only 48,000 miles on the clock, but it has some issues. I plan on the usual routine maintenance, plus a little extra since I don't know the service history of the bike. I am going to add some Sea Foam to the crankcase just before I tear down so I can ride it a few miles before the oil and filter change. That way the concoction can work it's magic and free up some of the carbon that's no doubt trapped in the valve train. I'll do a oil and filter change, likely using dino oil and a factory filter. I am leery of using synthetic, or a synthetic blend in a engine that old. I have seen it "eat" seals inside older engines on 4x4's in the past, so I can only suspect that it will do the same to a bike. I also am a firm believer in sticking with factory parts that were designed specifically to work with a particular machine. I know it likely doesn't make a huge difference, but I'm a (former) A&P mechanic, and old habits are hard to break.

 

I am also going to change the final drive oil. I think I remember reading that there should be zerks added to the shaft, and other locations on this model. If that is the case, I will do this as well. I've got a new set of NGK DPR8EA9's out in the garage for it, and I am going to attempt finding a new set of factory plug wires. If I can't find them, I'll make a set of 7mm's. It will get a new fuel filter installed, and I will inspect the carb boots for cracks and leaks. Since it is idling fairly good on its own now, I am hesitant to tear the carbs apart and rebuild them. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? Then again, since it will be stripped it would be the best time to do this job. I'll decide when I get to that point. I will adjust the idle speed, though. It seems a tad low at 900 RPM, but I have a manual on order and will see what the specs are.

 

When I got the bike home, I took a long and detailed look at the bike. This is when I noticed the left fork seal deterioration and leakage. This will be corrected with new fork seals, factory I hope. While I have them taken down, I will go ahead and install some progressive springs and change the oil.

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/013.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/012.jpg

 

On the initial ride home, the bike wanted to "walk" at slow speeds, and I noticed the handlebars are canted very slightly to the left. I have since read that there are a few possible causes and corrections for the walking condition. I will explore these issues and correct them. The brakes feel pretty mushy on the bike, and the rotors are pretty worn. I will replace the rotors and pads, and then change the brake fluid and bleed the system. That should correct this.

 

It has a set of Elite II's on it now. I have no idea how old they are, or how many miles they have on them, but they have some severe cupping. Especially the back. I don't have any pics of them, but I will try to get some once I have them off the bike. I will replace both tires, but I haven't decided with what just yet. I like Dunlops, and I have heard good stuff about Avons. I have run several sets of Bridgestone Battlax tires with very good results, but this bike isn't really that aggressive. I am really interested in some wide whitewalls, but I have no idea what they would look like on a first gen VR. If anybody is running them, please send me a pic.

 

That pretty much covers the mechanical issues. While I have the bike apart I plan on changing the cooling hoses and flushing the system. I can't think of anything else mechanically. If you guys see something I missed, please let me know.

 

All of the electronics (radio, cassette, intercom, CB, CLASS) still work perfectly. They are dirty and need some cleaning, but I don't plan on any major work or upgrades here. I do plan on installing some new speakers, and possibly trying to add some rear speakers as well. I am partial to Clarion, but will probably go with some Pioneers or the like to save a bit of money. The dash will need a good cleaning, too.

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/014.jpg

 

On the cosmetic side, there are the usual small cracks all over the fairings and luggage. There is nothing too serious, but it needs attention. The bike had been dropped on the left side, which caused a crack in the upper fairing. It was patched up and had touch up paint applied, but it still looks rough.

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/010.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/009.jpg

 

I have already bought wetsanding paper from 1500 up to 3000, and both colors of touch up paint. Once I have the all the plastics off, I will sand everything down that needs it and then touch it up and re-sand. Then I'll do the old three step polishing method on everything; rubbing compound, polishing compound, hard shell wax. After that I'll clean and detail the engine and frame as best I can. Then I'll reinstall everything. The vent on the left side mid fairing is missing some louvers, and the chrome trim at the bottom of the saddlebags is cracked. The back sides of both mirrors are scratched up, and the right one is pretty loose, too. I hope to just replace these pieces. If I can't locate them I will figure something else out.

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/008.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/007.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/006.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/011.jpg

 

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/005.jpg

 

The windshield is a bit crazed, and has two small but fairly deep scratches. I will attempt lightly sanding the scratches with crocus cloth. This is a fix that I have done several times on helicopter windscreens, but the results have been mixed. I would prefer to have the scratches rather than making it worse by trying to fix it. After that, I will use plastic polish to clean and get rid if the crazing.

 

That's all I have for now. It will take all winter to get this accomplished, but that's the fun of it. I know it will still be a 22 year old bike, but I hope it will run and look good for it's age. I have seen a few other ideas on the site that I will likely incorporate into this build, such as a light in the trunk, carpet inside the luggage, and adding a set of driving lights. I'm sure I will find more things to do before it's all done. If you all have any other ideas, please let me know.

Posted

Congrats on the bike!! You'll continue to fall in love with it.

 

Your garage looks much like mine. I ride an '86 Venture and my wife an '08 Sportster 1200C.

 

Hope you can join us for the International Rally in Cody next July!!

 

Dave

Posted

Welcome to the site Rentalguy1, I think you will find everything you need here to help you with all your projects and I am sure your to do list will grow some after you look around some more.

 

I look forward to following your progress.

 

Bob

Posted

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. That is a good looking bike already. In my opinion you are right about carbs unless you like taking those things apart (I Don't) More Sea-Foam and ride it. Not that Aggressive?? Wait til you get those carbs clean and change plug wires & plugs. There is a set of wires that are on E-Bay for these things. They need the Resistor caps. Dunlop Elll's seem to be the choice now but Avon's are great tires. Progressive springs great thing on these. Color-Rite paint? Should match up OK. I use Dino oil (Castrol 20/50) with a Fram filter from Advance Auto for 3 bucks.If you get tired of working on that one I got a couple.....:whistling:

 

And WELCOME!!! Keep us up to date on how this one is going!!

Posted

Welcome to the site. It is well worth the $12 / year for the info available. Like the service manual that you bought that can just be downloaded from here.

 

I also have an 88 so I will be watching your rebuild with interest.

 

For the scratches in the windshield, If it is original windshield you do not want to sand out the scratches. I went that route.

Yamaha used a very soft grade of plastic for the windshield and then put a hard scratch resistant coating on it. My windshield was very cloudy and scratched up so I started out with some 2000 wet (I had a heck of a time getting thru the hard coating) and then went through the steps to get it clear again. That part worked great, but now if you look at it wrong it will leave a mark even the hard shell of a bug will leave a mark when it hits.

I have found that the OEM windshields are readily available, and less cost than any of the after market ones.

Posted

You might want to consider putting stainless steel brake lines.

I'm not speaking from experience (going to do it this winter) but I've read that that really helps to firm up the brakes.

 

Another option is to de-link front and back brake from the rear pedal.

I've also read that helps.

 

Like I said...not from personal experience...but this site hasn't steered me wrong yet!

Posted

Thanks for the input. I will most likely subscribe to the site. I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I bought the CD service manual off of evilbay because I have a ancient laptop out in the garage. I can read off a CD all day long, but I doubt it has the memory to download the whole manual to. The stainless steel brake lines may get added to the list. I kind of like the linked brake setup on this thing. It reminds me to put my left foot down to catch the bike (right leg is partially paralyzed). Keep 'em coming.

Posted

We especially welcome new membes who have clean garages !!!!

 

How many miles on that new baby ??

 

I may start a repaint on mine this winter, I might go with that same color. :scratchchin:

Posted
We especially welcome new membes who have clean garages !!!!

 

How many miles on that new baby ??

 

I may start a repaint on mine this winter, I might go with that same color. :scratchchin:

 

It's clean for two reasons: We just bought the house and moved in a few months ago, and I just had to completely rearrange the garage last week to fit both bikes and the wife's Explorer in there at the same time. I'm sure it will be a mess by the end of the winter.

 

The VR has just over 48K. I plan on doubling that as soon as possible, though. :thumbsup:

Posted

I'd go for 298mm Rotor in the front and put R1 Calipers on instead of rebuilding the old Calipers.May come out at the same Price but better Brakes after the Mod ... Linked or de-linked is a Question you need to answer on your own. I prefer delinked, because it has many Advantages for me and saves a Lot of Hassle during Maintainance.

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