Fairing Crack Question

[MPK]

I am looking at a 1st Gen Venture Royale, 1990 model, but it is out of state and I have been communicating with the owner.

 

Everything was looking good until he mentioned the air compressor was disconnected (or not working) and some small cracks in the fairing, but offered to take some pictures of it.

 

Well, the cracks don't look small to me and they don't look like an easy fix. I talked with a M/C mechanic who does alot of VR work and he felt, without seeing the pictures, that being plastic versus fiberglass, the only way to really fix it and look good, would be to find replacement parts.

 

The mechanic I talked with had seen the bike and rebuilt the carbs and other items, but the owner didn't want to pay for the other items to be fixed. So, the mechanic doesn't know the cause of the compressor problem, and therefore can't estimate the repair.

 

I am attaching the pictures, I hope. Can anyone tell me what would need to be done to fix the fairing or compressor? If nothing reasonable is available, I may have to walk away from this one.

 

Thanks for any input!

[Trader]

Everything was looking good until he mentioned the air compressor was disconnected (or not working) and some small cracks in the fairing,

 

 

Small cracks?

I guess it's all relative....

Did he tell you "low" milage too?

 

You can fix them up with plastex....but then repainting would probably be in order.

[GeorgeS]

All the top panels easy to remove.

Then you have good access inside the cracked area. I would use some fiber glass auto body repair on the Inside.

 

You might have to remove the upper fairing section to do the repair.

 

However, don't let that crack determine wether or not to buy the bike. Look into other major maintenance that has been done on the bike.

 

Frankly, though, I would look elseware. Lots of bike avialbale now, in the " down market "

[Bill W.]

My RH fairing was almost as bad as those pics. I used Plastex on all the cracks I found, fixed them all. Just scuff up the area around the crack, maybe even grind a little into it, close up the crack best you can, then apply the Plastex in accordance to the instructions. Piece of cake! I used Plastex on all of the plastic parts, even on the pieces around the speakers and radio. I think it works great!

[MPK]

The bike only has 12K miles on it. I have a picture of that too and it looks really good except for the crack and I'm curious about whether more will be forthcoming? I did not see evidence the bike had been dropped, even though that's what I suspect.

 

Looks like Plastex is the answer, and yes, new paint.

 

As far as the air compressor, is the worse case that the compressor is bad and has to be replaced? Was that common? How hard is it to get parts?

[SilvrT]

Personally I would not use fiberglass to repair ABS plastic. It may work in certan situations but the best thing is a 2-part ABS epoxy such as Plastex. Also, prior to using an ABS epoxy, you could do some plastic welding with an electric soldering gun...if for nothing else but to "tack weld" the item in place. I've also seen specialized ABS welding kits for these situations...somewhere here on the site someone has posted info about this.

[Evan]

Had a similar crack although not as far advanced and separated as much as shown in the pictures. I have used Plastex quite a bit on my plastics with great success. However, from my experience, the best fix for a corner crack like that shown in the picture is a fiberglass patch on the inside of the fairing, which as others have noted, is quite accessible. I also was able to jerry-rig a clamp to close the crack and I used scotch tape on the outside so the fiberglass did not show from the outside. I am sure not an expert on this but this is what worked for me.

[Yammer Dan]

My compressor quit when Mud Daubers plugged the end of the intake hose.

[Cruser]

Did they make venture fairings without cracks? who would have thought?

[Midicat]

Don't worry too much about the compressor. Unless of course, you were counting on having one. They do come up on Ebay from time to time so they are available. I bougth my 85 VR without a compressor and it sure hasn't stopped me from enjoying every mile I ride.

Thomas

 

The bike only has 12K miles on it. I have a picture of that too and it looks really good except for the crack and I'm curious about whether more will be forthcoming? I did not see evidence the bike had been dropped, even though that's what I suspect.

 

Looks like Plastex is the answer, and yes, new paint.

 

As far as the air compressor, is the worse case that the compressor is bad and has to be replaced? Was that common? How hard is it to get parts?

[Condor]

 

I am attaching the pictures, I hope. Can anyone tell me what would need to be done to fix the fairing or compressor? If nothing reasonable is available, I may have to walk away from this one.

 

Thanks for any input!

 

In my opinion that bike took one hell of a shot. Is that the only area that's damaged? It's repairable, but you'll be looking at a lot of time and energy spent in the fix. The compressor is probably disconected because the owner never read this board and was blaming the non-op on the compressor instead of the CLASS controller. But then again the controller is right in the middle of the damaged area. It could be toast. It all depends on what the asking price is. $400-$500 take it. Any more than that... walk away...

[6m459]

Those cracks wouldn't put me off, they look entirely repairable to me. I'd haggle the price of the bike over them though, you bet I would.

 

The repairs will take a bit of time and effort but as long as you aren't paying someone else by the hour, it'll be worth your while.

 

I like Plastex also. It is truly wonderful stuff. You will be amazed at the repair results and its versatility. It takes a bit of trial and error to get the technique down but it isn't hard to use once you get the hang of it. I'll bet with the right clamping, just a few drops of the liquid solvent part of the Plastex kit run into the backside of those cracks would 'heal' them up nicely. Then I'd do something on the inside for a bit of extra strength and insurance out of sight.

 

I have used auto fibreglass in the past and have had mixed results. I have decided not to use it anymore as it doesn't stick well enough in the long term. That being said, I do have some f/g repairs that have a lot of miles on them now.

 

I have had very good results with MIGHTY PUTTY believe it or not.

 

(I started out using a Permatex product that was recommended by someone here but was later discontinued. When Billy Mayes began his annoying info-mercials for M/P, I said to myself that looks a lot like that Permatex stuff. I bought some and it works just as well, so I think Permatex dumped their remaining inventory on Billy Mayes et al and they renamed it. Just my suspicion though, so make up your own mind.)

 

I have a lower fairing mounting tab completely rebuilt of M/P and it has a full season on it now. For behind the scenes repairs, I use M/P in combinatioin with the fibreglass drywall tape that comes on a 2" roll. I mix an apporopriate sized wad of M/P then spit it in half. I work the first half into place on the crack, then lay the f/g tape across the top so that the strands go diagonally across the repair. Then I cover that with the other half of the wad of M/P and work it in well. It sticks well, holds strong and lasts. (M/P doesn't hold a thread very well though.)

 

In your purchasing decision I guess you need to weigh how important it is to you to have an absolutely pristine looking bike vs a way of bargaining down the price by pointing to cracks and deficientcies then fixing them yourself. Personally I don't care what the bike looks like so long as I can have fun riding it. I am much happier getting a good price, others seem more hung up on appearance. Your call.

 

I don't have a compressor equipped bike so you are on your own there, sorry.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Brian H.

[timgray]

Honestly, if you cant work on a bike yourself you are better off buying a newer bike with less wrong with it and potential wrong. Old classic bikes need a lot more care and can cost you more than buying a new bike over the course of a few years.

 

My 1983 was in like new shape and I have already spent in 2 years an extra $3500.00 bringing the total to $4300.00 spent. Right now I can buy a 2001 goldwing or a 2004 FJR1300 for that.

[Ottawa]

Personally I would not use fiberglass to repair ABS plastic. It may work in certan situations but the best thing is a 2-part ABS epoxy such as Plastex. Also, prior to using an ABS epoxy, you could do some plastic welding with an electric soldering gun...if for nothing else but to "tack weld" the item in place. I've also seen specialized ABS welding kits for these situations...somewhere here on the site someone has posted info about this.

 

ABS epoxy with fiberglass is so easy and holds way better. I've have had a 83 and then a 85. Both around 75.000km and with repair and the cost to purchase I never went over $2000.00 Cdn including paint and tires on the road. Both have been really good to me. Time to ride is so hard to find at times and I feel way better knowing I only have $2000.00 sitting there and no payments rather than $6000.00 or more with a payment each month. Either way bikes aren't cheep to have or run. If you like to work on bikes buy it. If you don't, then either have lots of cash for the shop, or don't ride. Its really that simple. But, I recommend that you ride!!! The purchase price will be important and I have an extra compressor I have no use for!!!

[CrazyHorse]

Honestly, if you cant work on a bike yourself you are better off buying a newer bike with less wrong with it and potential wrong. Old classic bikes need a lot more care and can cost you more than buying a new bike over the course of a few years.

 

My 1983 was in like new shape and I have already spent in 2 years an extra $3500.00 bringing the total to $4300.00 spent. Right now I can buy a 2001 goldwing or a 2004 FJR1300 for that.

 

 

No kidding your right about that....

[MPK]

I appreciate all of the input. I'm struggling with it. I can handle an old bike and enjoy the ride. I had a 1980 CB900 when it was 18 yrs old, and enjoyed every minute of it. Actually wish I had just kept it.

 

If my mechanical skills weren't below the level of Tim the toolman, I'd be all over it and attacking the repair job. If I can get enough off of it, I may still go for it, try the Plastex out on it and hope I don't attach myself to it permanently. I can't afford something more expensive at this point.

 

Attached is a shot of the good side of the bike.

[Cruser]

For large cracks like the one on your bike, look around for some chrome trim that can be used to re-enforce the repair, a corner trim with a couple of chrome screws or bolts goes a long ways towards not having to worry about whatever type of bond you decide to use not holding up on its own.

 

You can always duplicate the trim on both sides so it looks like it was intentional, add some shine to the bike and a touch of personality to an otherwise irritating circumstance.

[Evan]

I appreciate all of the input. I'm struggling with it. --- If my mechanical skills weren't below the level of Tim the toolman, I'd be all over it and attacking the repair job. If I can get enough off of it, I may still go for it, try the Plastex out on it and hope I don't attach myself to it permanently. I can't afford something more expensive at this point. ---

Just an additional note, again based on my own experience. If you do try using Plastex, you will be pleasantly surprised by how easy it is to work with. However, for your particular job, you may not be successful without taking your fairing off (whick is doable). That may not be the case with fiberglass applied on the inside - at least it wasn't for me. However, as a 1st gen owner, I couldn't get by without my Plastex for other repairs inclduding broken tabs and cracks.

[jasonm.]

DO NOT USE FIBERGLASS to repair these ABS fairings. Why would you use a flexible material to hold what needs to be rigid? There are plastic welding epoxies out there that work very good. The best Is Devcon Plastic Welder.Google it. True Value hardware sold it for years under their name plate. And now sell it w/o the name plate. It's all Devcon when I walk into the hardware store. Makes me feel good to know that I am getting just what I want. And WalMart carried it until this year in my area. Fiberglass resins don't work well with ABS usually. I repaired a fairing that looked worse than the pics here with Devcon. And it looked like new after paint and Never cracked again. The best thing about these welder epoxies ...you can reinforce the material with plexiglass or aluminum or sheets of steel. The possibilities are endless. That repaired Bike was easily sold. ALso those pics at the beginning of the post clearly show the cracks were from a fall or tip-over.

Edited September 27, 2010 by jasonm.

[charlie h.]

My personal experience with several brands of plastic welder 2 part epoxy has been excellent, i have repaired cracks in panels, the lowers, the wraparound , and sidepanel pins, and it is stronger than original plastic. groove the back of the crack with a rotary file and rough up plastic with 60 grit, then apply plastic welder, filling up grooved area, and the roughed area on either side of grooved crack. Remember, work from back side of crack, and you may not need to repaint. Hope this helps:12101:

[MPK]

Thanks for all of the input and expertise! It's good to know for the future, as I had to let this one go when my wife told me she needed some dental work and I saw what our portion was going to cost. It basically took what I had set aside, but am thankful I had it available when needed.

 

The current plan is to start looking at bikes again in the early spring.