Mariner Fan Posted November 1, 2007 #1 Posted November 1, 2007 As you may know, I just purchased a new Venture. Reading the manual, it says to not over rev the engine during break in. "Avoid prolonged operation above 1/3 throttle (0-600 mi)" "Avoid prolonged operation above 1/2 throttle (600-1000 mi)" Yamaha recommends some crazy shift points. 1rst to 2nd - 13 mph 2nd to 3rd - 19 mph 3rd to 4th - 25 mph 4th to 5th - 31 mph That's crazy! I couldn't imagine shifting up at such a slow speed. This engine seems to run much smoother at a higher RPM. I did a bit of research on engine break in. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm They recommend the opposite of what Yamaha suggests. How did you go about breaking in your new engines? I'm interested on your comments and or recommendations. Bob
flb_78 Posted November 1, 2007 #2 Posted November 1, 2007 I would break in it hard. It sets the rings better. We all went through this with our Roadstars. Everyone was asking how to break it in. Most said, break it in like how you're going to ride it.
yamahamer Posted November 1, 2007 #3 Posted November 1, 2007 RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT FOR FIRST 5 YEARS!!!!:whistling:
Guest KitCarson Posted November 1, 2007 #4 Posted November 1, 2007 The Yamaha manual says many strange things!!! Ride the bike normally, you can even hit the interstate......just do not hold it to any certain speed for a long time, vary it.........these V-4 motors love to run...... but at 31 mph you are just coming out of 1st gear!!! Kit
Eck Posted November 1, 2007 #5 Posted November 1, 2007 Just get on it and ride it as if you had it for years... However, Make sure you know how it handle it first.. (excessive weight).......
SilvrT Posted November 1, 2007 #6 Posted November 1, 2007 LOL, it would seem to me that shifting from 4th to 5th at 31mph would cause the engine to lug severely which would IMO, cause more damage than do good. Drive it normally but don't keep it at a set rpm for extended periods.....and you may want to look at this... http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html and this... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Snarley Bill Posted November 1, 2007 #7 Posted November 1, 2007 don't know where yamaha gets those shift points .it's the same for my v-star.the motor won't run that slow.just drive it normal and don't be afraid to rev it a little.being a machinist , i still can't make people understand that two rough metallic surfaces have to be broke in to match each other with a little care,mainly gears and bearings ,or you wind up with a condition called gaulding of the metal.proper breakin is a process similar to lapping precision parts in a machine shop with lapping compound to get them to match. it's not the rpms that damages the surface it is excessive loads at any rpm that forces the two surfaces together.the best way i have found to seat the rings is find a section of road with some nice grades and put a medium load on the motor and use your gears .don't lug it. you have about a 60 mile window to seat the rings.the gears and bearings take alot longer. as was said before by others vary the speed.close the throttle every so often for a few seconds .the vacuum will suck oil up to the top ring.main thing is ,don't abuse it.another mistake people make is changing the oil the first time to soon.wait a minumum of 400mi.those fine metal particles in the oil act as a fine abrasive to polish the wearing surfaces of the bearings gears and other moving parts.you can do more harm changing oil to early than good.
SilvrT Posted November 1, 2007 #8 Posted November 1, 2007 don't know where yamaha gets those shift points .it's the same for my v-star.the motor won't run that slow.just drive it normal and don't be afraid to rev it a little.being a machinist , i still can't make people understand that two rough metallic surfaces have to be broke in to match each other with a little care,mainly gears and bearings ,or you wind up with a condition called gaulding of the metal.proper breakin is a process similar to lapping precision parts in a machine shop with lapping compound to get them to match. it's not the rpms that damages the surface it is excessive loads at any rpm that forces the two surfaces together.the best way i have found to seat the rings is find a section of road with some nice grades and put a medium load on the motor and use your gears .don't lug it. you have about a 60 mile window to seat the rings.the gears and bearings take alot longer. as was said before by others vary the speed.close the throttle every so often for a few seconds .the vacuum will suck oil up to the top ring.main thing is ,don't abuse it.another mistake people make is changing the oil the first time to soon.wait a minumum of 400mi.those fine metal particles in the oil act as a fine abrasive to polish the wearing surfaces of the bearings gears and other moving parts.you can do more harm changing oil to early than good. Good points you make; however, there's a lot of controversy over the bolded statement. It makes "some" logical sense to me but at the same time, couldn't those metal particles also do damage?
Mariner Fan Posted November 1, 2007 Author #9 Posted November 1, 2007 Thanks for the replies! Totally makes sense to break the engine in like you ride it. I still don't know why Yamaha put those ridiculous shift points in the manual. The motor likes to rev and it runs much better that way.
pegscraper Posted November 1, 2007 #10 Posted November 1, 2007 Just my own guess here. I think the low shift points are eyewash for the EPA. Since these are manual transmissions and they have no control over shift points, Y has to recommend these low shift points to placate them. Car manufacturers have been making automatic transmissions shift up too early for many years now, killing part throttle acceleration, and putting in overdrive gears that are too high (which our bikes have). One has to hold the gas pedal down farther than really necessary to make the trans shift where it ought to. And those cars with sticks have a shift light that comes on way too early. The one and only manual car we ever owned, I got into the dash and pulled the shift light out. It truly defines the term idiot light. The key words back up there were "they have no control". They don't like that.
SilvrT Posted November 1, 2007 #11 Posted November 1, 2007 Just my own guess here. I think the low shift points are eyewash for the EPA. Since these are manual transmissions and they have no control over shift points, Y has to recommend these low shift points to placate them. Car manufacturers have been making automatic transmissions shift up too early for many years now, killing part throttle acceleration, and putting in overdrive gears that are too high (which our bikes have). One has to hold the gas pedal down farther than really necessary to make the trans shift where it ought to. And those cars with sticks have a shift light that comes on way too early. The one and only manual car we ever owned, I got into the dash and pulled the shift light out. It truly defines the term idiot light. The key words back up there were "they have no control". They don't like that. These lights you're referring to... is this for US production coz I don't see that here in Canada...at least not on my car but then again, it is 4 yrs old so maybe things have changed since.
Snarley Bill Posted November 1, 2007 #12 Posted November 1, 2007 Good points you make; however, there's a lot of controversy over the bolded statement. It makes "some" logical sense to me but at the same time, couldn't those metal particles also do damage?not the big particles they usually settle in the sump.it's the microscopic particles i'm refering to.the filter will pick up the rest.changing the filter would'nt hurt a thing if it gives one peace of mind.i would say most motorcycle manufacturers are right on with 600mi.first change,but i get antsy at 400 mi.most of the high spots are wore off by then.if people could see the surface of a newly ground crankshaft journal under a microscope it would blow there mind.rougher than the surface of the moon.,although it looks smooth as glass.
Snarley Bill Posted November 1, 2007 #13 Posted November 1, 2007 Just my own guess here. I think the low shift points are eyewash for the EPA. Since these are manual transmissions and they have no control over shift points, Y has to recommend these low shift points to placate them. Car manufacturers have been making automatic transmissions shift up too early for many years now, killing part throttle acceleration, and putting in overdrive gears that are too high (which our bikes have). One has to hold the gas pedal down farther than really necessary to make the trans shift where it ought to. And those cars with sticks have a shift light that comes on way too early. The one and only manual car we ever owned, I got into the dash and pulled the shift light out. It truly defines the term idiot light. The key words back up there were "they have no control". They don't like that.good observasion, never thought of that.bill:)
greyghost Posted November 1, 2007 #14 Posted November 1, 2007 My dealer told me to take it through 7 heat cycles and during that time rev it hard throught the gears to seat the rings. No prolong steady speed and not to use the cruise control. He suggested the best break in is a combination of hwy and city driving. First sevice is at 1000km (625miles)
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now