Bobby G Posted September 15, 2010 #1 Posted September 15, 2010 Just changed the oil in the RSV after the long hot trip to FLA and back, and for the 3rd change in a row, I'm only getting just under 3 qts. of oil to drain out, including what's in the filter. And it's only taking the same amount of new oil to cover the view window to the 3/4 mark when the bike is upright after running the new stuff through for 10 or 15 minutes. Either I'm doing something really wrong or dumb, or the capacity is off by a good 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of oil. I check the level before and after every ride I take, and I've never had to add any after the fact either. Very strange.
massey130 Posted September 15, 2010 #2 Posted September 15, 2010 I have noticed a similar issue. I believe there is that much oil hanging around where ever oil can hang onto and not drip down to the drain plug. I think i will use a flush next time just to grab all the oil and then fill with new after draining the flush stuff. I use an AMS flush on other stuff, should be ok for the RSV 04.
massey130 Posted September 15, 2010 #3 Posted September 15, 2010 I have also tried to just let the scooter sit dripping for ever, but the oil change has to be completed some time, so after a couple of hours, i button it up and fill. that's when the flush thing occurred to me.
Guest scarylarry Posted September 15, 2010 #4 Posted September 15, 2010 I have noticed a similar issue. I believe there is that much oil hanging around where ever oil can hang onto and not drip down to the drain plug. I think i will use a flush next time just to grab all the oil and then fill with new after draining the flush stuff. I use an AMS flush on other stuff, should be ok for the RSV 04. Do a search on this, but somewhere it is stated that some oil stays in the pan from the design, also that paper filter will hold oil not much but some, if the oil is full after you change it and stays full during the checks I would say ride it, with all that being said if the oil is not all the way draining out, do you think the flush will drain out?
kj5ix Posted September 15, 2010 #5 Posted September 15, 2010 Here is Why The Drain is under the cross bar in the middle. The only way to get all of the oil out would be to raise the rear up about 4 foot, and tilt it to the left a little...... This is from my Cracked Oil Pan post: Gaskets came in today, and Gary's pan all cleaned up. So I took on the task. Not bad at all only took two hours with taking photos, and memorizing things on the way out AKA look at it for 10 sec's instead of 2. All went well and no hitches Praise the Lord !! What the inside of the old pan looks like with 53K on it. Pretty clean. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/oilpan.jpg And with the little bit of oil drained out, very little sludge in the drain run. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/oilpan1.jpg A different look at the CRACK !!!!! worse than I thought. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/oilpancrack2.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/oilpancrack1.jpg The inside of the engine is in great clean shape. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/insideengine.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/insideengine1.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/insideengine2.jpg The pan I got from Gary after cleaning this weekend. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/newpan1.jpg http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/newpan.jpg And this is all the mess I made,,, Now that surprise's me usually a lot bigger. http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo265/kj5ix/01%20Venture/mess.jpg Thanks again Gary, and Earl. Now if it doesn't leak we are in good shape again..
massey130 Posted September 15, 2010 #6 Posted September 15, 2010 Do a search on this, but somewhere it is stated that some oil stays in the pan from the design, also that paper filter will hold oil not much but some, if the oil is full after you change it and stays full during the checks I would say ride it, with all that being said if the oil is not all the way draining out, do you think the flush will drain out? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I was thinking rather than old oil holding "stuff" that my be bad for the motor sit in the pan to be mixed in the new oil, the flush would pick up some more of it to be gotten rid of. having flush fluid with thinned out left over oil may be better than just old oil with "stuff". I see the comment that little area may be there as a trap for solid to settle in from the oil flow. kind of like the vortex in air lines to help spin out water. just thinkin of a way to keep it clean and full. my wife says i read too much into things sometimes. maybe this is one of those times.
Guest scarylarry Posted September 15, 2010 #7 Posted September 15, 2010 I never been big on flushing unless the oil was sludge, and very old..
massey130 Posted September 15, 2010 #8 Posted September 15, 2010 I mainly use it when buying something from someone and want to start fresh with my own maintenance. on my 4 wheeler, though, i do ignore oil changes since i don't really use it much and a long time can go between oil change. I am really just thinking out loud and appreciate the input. I like to get on and ride or drive and time spent taking care of stuff can help prevent the "Uh-Oh" saying when u have a problem.
kj5ix Posted September 15, 2010 #9 Posted September 15, 2010 The top two photos of the oil pan had 54K on it, and the oil changed semi regularly ( @ 10K intervals ) and for that many miles it was surprisingly clean in the sump area. That photo was taken seconds after dropping it and no clean up.
massey130 Posted September 15, 2010 #10 Posted September 15, 2010 The top two photos of the oil pan had 54K on it, and the oil changed semi regularly ( @ 10K intervals ) and for that many miles it was surprisingly clean in the sump area. That photo was taken seconds after dropping it and no clean up. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I thought it looked fresh. If mine is like that, i see no need for the flush. maybe just change the oil a bit sooner. I go 3 to 4 thou miles between changes.
flb_78 Posted September 15, 2010 #11 Posted September 15, 2010 I wouldn't use the flush. It's most likely kerosene for the most part anyways. We've used diesel before to flush out some nasty Deere engines. But I would not put any flush in this motorcycle. The oil pan has a low spot and the flush/oil mix will sit in the low spot and will mix with the new oil. Plus, I don't know how the flush will affect the clutch since it runs in the oil as well.
Flyinfool Posted September 15, 2010 #12 Posted September 15, 2010 There is a fair amount of oil held back in the transmission area. You can drain that area by removing the bottom of the 6 screws that hold that cover on the left side. That is why that screw has the copper crush washer on it. Or just change it and ride and don't worry about the couple of ounces of old oil left behind.
kj5ix Posted September 15, 2010 #13 Posted September 15, 2010 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I thought it looked fresh. If mine is like that, i see no need for the flush. maybe just change the oil a bit sooner. I go 3 to 4 thou miles between changes. Just me but I think a waist of good oil,,, This engine will tell you when it needs changing IMHO. The GL1800 different story; it just keeps haulin,, I change that one at 12 to 15 K (Syn 15/50) The old school way isn't bad just a waist of good oil,,,
Bobby G Posted September 15, 2010 Author #14 Posted September 15, 2010 The low point in the pan pretty much explains this descrepancy for me. Thanks.
GeorgeS Posted September 15, 2010 #15 Posted September 15, 2010 There is a fair amount of oil held back in the transmission area. You can drain that area by removing the bottom of the 6 screws that hold that cover on the left side. That is why that screw has the copper crush washer on it. Or just change it and ride and don't worry about the couple of ounces of old oil left behind. YES!, remove the lower bolt on this cover, and you will get another 1/4 qt of oil to drain, and there is at least 1/4 qt. in the oil filter !!
Bobby G Posted September 16, 2010 Author #16 Posted September 16, 2010 There is a fair amount of oil held back in the transmission area. You can drain that area by removing the bottom of the 6 screws that hold that cover on the left side. That is why that screw has the copper crush washer on it. Or just change it and ride and don't worry about the couple of ounces of old oil left behind. Can you direct this lameoid to the correct screw on the correct cover? Never did this before. Thanks.
dray Posted September 16, 2010 #17 Posted September 16, 2010 i dont under stand everyone saying its still in the bike pan were at in the pan if you do a change and every time it keeps a half quart after 10 changes it would still have 5 quarts of oil not a half quart the oil is GONE! more than likely burnt being pumped back through the airbox check in the air box and see if it looks oily in it and yes i under stand it could have some in the pan but after the first time you should get it all back and the first time would be when its preped and drained so it would only be seen one time not everytime:doh:
Bobby G Posted September 16, 2010 Author #18 Posted September 16, 2010 i dont under stand everyone saying its still in the bike pan were at in the pan if you do a change and every time it keeps a half quart after 10 changes it would still have 5 quarts of oil not a half quart the oil is GONE! more than likely burnt being pumped back through the airbox check in the air box and see if it looks oily in it and yes i under stand it could have some in the pan but after the first time you should get it all back and the first time would be when its preped and drained so it would only be seen one time not everytime:doh: No, it wouldn't keep a 1/2 qt. EVERY time - - I think what he meant was that because of the "pooling" in the one area of the pan, it keeps a 1/2 qt (or less) ALL the time. It's not a cumulative 1/2 qt. It's just an "all the time" 1/2 qt. Quite honestly, it's really not a full half quart. But between what's left in the pan, what's in the old filter, what's in the clutch, and what probably gets a little burned up, that would account for what doesn't drain out of the plug. And I just cleaned the K&N's, and they were fine. No oil in the airboxes.
RSTDdog Posted September 16, 2010 #19 Posted September 16, 2010 And I just cleaned the K&N's, and they were fine. No oil in the airboxes. The oil ends up in the part of the airbox over the carburetors. You won't see it where the filters go. Mine the oil from the airbox would run down on the left side rear carburetor. I just recently cleaned all that up when I had the carbs off. Think the prior owner overfilled or let it sit and had fuel contamination over filling the oil. I can tell you that it was oily, but there wasn't half a quart up there. Maybe an an ounce or two at the very most. These engines are pretty much bulletproof. As long as there is oil in it, its going to run. A half quart of old oil left over is not going to hurt it. Change it when you think it needs it and don't worry about what you don't get out. It just doesn't matter. That being said, I use an air hose to back flush the oil leading to the filter area. Thst usually gets me a couple of ounces more out of the drain. Part of being anal is knowing in your mind it doesn't matter but having to do it anyway because it makes you feel better. I should take my own advice.... rstddog
Guest Posted September 16, 2010 #20 Posted September 16, 2010 If oil is changed on a regular basis then what little of the the old stuff should not matter. If the oil changes are way over the 3-4k mark, longer if using synthetics, like say 10k or more and it looks like something that you would pour on your stack of pancakes then id worry about it. Just my humble opinion. Never believed in motor flushes myself. I always felt that they would leave the bearing surfaces too vulnerable on start up.
davecb Posted September 16, 2010 #21 Posted September 16, 2010 If you really want to get all that old oil out, just take a long straw through the fill hole and suck it out....
elag Posted September 16, 2010 #22 Posted September 16, 2010 The oil pump will also hold some oil during a change. If the pump loses it's prime, it could take several minutes to start pumping again. If this happens, you are looking at replacing the bearings.
Squeeze Posted September 16, 2010 #23 Posted September 16, 2010 Can you direct this lameoid to the correct screw on the correct cover? Never did this before. Thanks. the lowest of the six Bolts on the left rear Cover is a Bolt where Oil will come out slowly if you undo it. That why this Bolt has copper Washer. The oil pump will also hold some oil during a change. If the pump loses it's prime, it could take several minutes to start pumping again. If this happens, you are looking at replacing the bearings. There's not much Oil in the Oil Pump, maybe 50 cc, most likely less than that.
kj5ix Posted September 16, 2010 #24 Posted September 16, 2010 i dont under stand everyone saying its still in the bike pan were at in the pan Go back to page 1 and look at the photos again, Should be Obvisious.....
ahoutzer Posted September 16, 2010 #25 Posted September 16, 2010 I eagerly await the invention of the new Carbon One (or perhaps someone else?) oil drain sucker straw. How about it?
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