Throttle Sticking

[ToyOdie]

I have a problem with my throttle grip. It's not returning to idle on it's own. It started after the bike sat in the rain at work. I have lubbed the cables and tried to lube the linkage with no success. I would apperciate any suggestions. I can still ride but it's not comforting keeping a constant grip to return the throttle.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Richard,

There is one more area that you will need to address as far as lube goes, and that is the plastic cylinder under the rubber grip on the right handle bar. You may need to disassemble the housing that holds the run/kill switch, (2 or 3 screws on the bottom) crack the case open, you will see the two throttle cables connecting to the white plastic "sleeve" that allows the throttle to rotate. While you are in there, this is a perfect time to use contact cleaner on the kill switch and starter ingage switch. It is not a hard job, just a time consuming one. Use an Impact driver to remove the Phillips Head Screws in the bottom of the switch housing so you don't strip out the Phillips Head Slots. Just an FYI here, a metric Phillips Head Screw has a steeper angle than an American Phillips Head Screw, that's why it is so easy to destroy the slots in the head when you try to remove them with an American Phillips Screwdriver.

Good luck with this project,

Earl

[ToyOdie]

Hey Richard,

There is one more area that you will need to address as far as lube goes, and that is the plastic cylinder under the rubber grip on the right handle bar. You may need to disassemble the housing that holds the run/kill switch, (2 or 3 screws on the bottom) crack the case open, you will see the two throttle cables connecting to the white plastic "sleeve" that allows the throttle to rotate. While you are in there, this is a perfect time to use contact cleaner on the kill switch and starter ingage switch. It is not a hard job, just a time consuming one. Use an Impact driver to remove the Phillips Head Screws in the bottom of the switch housing so you don't strip out the Phillips Head Slots. Just an FYI here, a metric Phillips Head Screw has a steeper angle than an American Phillips Head Screw, that's why it is so easy to destroy the slots in the head when you try to remove them with an American Phillips Screwdriver.

Good luck with this project,

Earl

 

Thank, but I already did that. I took the whole grip off and even cleaned the inside ofthe rotating part and put a good coat of wax on the handle bar. I'm thinking of removing the cables from the carb end and checking to see if the belcrank returns smoothly without the grip connected. At least I'll be able to identify if its in the grip/cables or the carb linkage. I'll go from there.

[YamaDuck]

Thank, but I already did that. I took the whole grip off and even cleaned the inside ofthe rotating part and put a good coat of wax on the handle bar. I'm thinking of removing the cables from the carb end and checking to see if the belcrank returns smoothly without the grip connected. At least I'll be able to identify if its in the grip/cables or the carb linkage. I'll go from there.

Mine was sticking and I did all the lubing and still had a problem. There are two cables leading from the plastic box on the left side to the carb linkage. There are two nuts where the two cables connect to the linkage bracket. I adjusted the two nuts so that my throttle did not open to far as it did before and it cured my problem. You may want to check there. Sorry I don't know the proper names for the parts I'm trying to describe.

[bknsaddle]

I had the same problem....caused by my throttle rocker binding on the bar end weight.

Of course I figured that out after doing everything else I could think of......

[ToyOdie]

I had the same problem....caused by my throttle rocker binding on the bar end weight.

Of course I figured that out after doing everything else I could think of......

 

 

I have a homemade throttle rocker but no bar end weight. I did remove the rocker and still have to problem. I'll disconnect the cables from the carb (yamaduck's solution will be checked at this time) and see if the linkage is free without the cables. It's not sticking full open grip will stay wherever you stop. Like a poor mans cruise control.

[MikeWa]

It is a good idea to determine if the problem is with the cables or the carbs. On occasion carbon can deposit on the throttle shafts and cause sticking. Sometimes techs will lube the shafts and return springs with spray grease. A good idea but it can cause dirt to accumulate on the linkage and sometimes things will get sticky. If this turns out to be the problem and you decide to clean things with spray carburetor cleaner make sure all plastic parts are removed or covered. Go ahead ask me how I know.

Mike

[YamaDuck]

I have a homemade throttle rocker but no bar end weight. I did remove the rocker and still have to problem. I'll disconnect the cables from the carb (yamaduck's solution will be checked at this time) and see if the linkage is free without the cables. It's not sticking full open grip will stay wherever you stop. Like a poor mans cruise control.

This sounds like the return spring in the plastic box on the left side of the bike under the gas tank may either be missing, reinstalled wrong or be broken. Don't know if your throttle is hard to turn or turns easily but I understand it stays put and does not return.

I would guess if the throttle is difficult to turn something is gumbed up but if the throttle does not take any extra effort to turn then I would check the spring in the box. Hope you figure it out.

[Rick Haywood]

I had the same problem with mine and all I had to do was adjust the throttle cable at the grip. I adjusted it in a little and it then worked fine.

[ToyOdie]

I always tell everyone to "Work smarter, Not harder" Well guess what, I need to follow my own motto. Try the easy stuff first. I disconnected the cables from the carb and found that the carbs returned just fine without the grip/cables hooked up. Therefor the problem was somewhere up stream from the carbs. Since I wanted to pull the carbs to plastic dip the intake boots I went ahead and did that. By the way the paint on type Plastic dip works great if you thin it with Naptha. It will fill any cracks and finishes smooth. After I got the carbs back on I removed my throttle grip to check everything in the switch housing and to clean the bar inside the grip again. The grip was still tight on the bar. Not sticking tight, just slightly binding. I cleaned everything again and still couldn't figure it out. Then just by chance I removed my throttle rocker from the grip and everything loosened up. (I did mention the I have a homemade rocker earlier in this thread) It wraps 3/4 around the grip and has an edge that digs into the rubber between the chrome bars on the stock grip. The edge was pushing hard enough to tighten the grip on the bar. Unless I can modify the rocker, I'll have to invest in a factory made one. I do plan on installing ISO grips at some point, I can add the grip end rocker then. Thanks for all the help.