High Beam Garage door Opener

[Mischevious]

Ok here goes. Sorry this took so long but things have been totally crazy around here.

 

First thing you need to buy is a 12v garage door opener. Here is the one I used.

 

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/Shinufu/0909101242.jpg

 

Next you will need some electrical wire, solder gun and solder. Open the garage door opener so it looks like this.

 

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/Shinufu/0909101243.jpg

 

Take out the battery. Now the rest is quite simple. You need to solder a POS and NEG wire on the battery posts. Simple enough. Now in the next picture you will notice the SW1 on the left side. There are two tiny posts the run up thru the plastic. They need to be soldered together. That is for the constant connection.

 

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/Shinufu/0909101244.jpg

 

Once everything is soldered into place you can file out two small grooves for the wires to go thru and put it all back together. Test it buy using the 12v battery that came with the remote. If all works your install ready. I split the fairing and pulled the headlight assembly out to get a good look at the wires. There are three on the plug for the headlight. One is for low beam, one is for high beam and one is a ground. You want the HIGH BEAM and GROUND. I used wire clips to attach the remote to the wires. Use plenty of electrical tape to secure the wires and put it all back together. WALAH!!!!!!!! You should now be able to open your garage door with your highbeams. I hope this helps!!!!

[Aussie Annie]

Thank you for that

[Guest scarylarry]

Thanks looks simple enough, only down side I see is change the code on the opener, also wouldn't be entergize all the time though, when you turn the high beam?

I don't know if this would matter or not but if something was to overheat be hard to get to on the road..

I would hate to see smoke under the faring on the road..

I run the country at night so high beams are on alot for me...

Though I am looking for something other than what I'm doing...

[a1bummer]

Thanks looks simple enough, only down side I see is change the code on the opener, also wouldn't be entergize all the time though, when you turn the high beam?

 

I don't know if this would matter or not but if something was to overheat be hard to get to on the road..

 

I would hate to see smoke under the faring on the road..

 

I run the country at night so high beams are on alot for me...

 

Though I am looking for something other than what I'm doing...

 

You could simply use one of those "constant to momentary" relay setups to fix that problem.

[kj5ix]

Thanks looks simple enough, only down side I see is change the code on the opener, also wouldn't be entergize all the time though, when you turn the high beam?

 

I don't know if this would matter or not but if something was to overheat be hard to get to on the road..

 

I would hate to see smoke under the faring on the road..

 

I run the country at night so high beams are on alot for me...

 

Though I am looking for something other than what I'm doing...

YES it would be on or energized the whole time the hi beam is on, and it most likely wouldn't be good for the remote as it is designed as a intermittent RF Transmitter. However there is another way to use this unit and others like it.

 

Us the positive and negative leads off the power point in the faring for power, and trace out the Turn Cancel switch for the trigger to the switch on the remote. There very well could be 5 volts on one side of the turn cancel line, when pushed, but as a trigger that doesn't matter ( or it doesn't on the Goldwings that I have done ) It does require additional wire from the harness to the trigger switch on the remote though. I use .062 molex connectors that I ordered from Allied Elect. Any polarized connector will work.

[Guest scarylarry]

I think either I will look at a smal key chain type or I like the switch wire to the remote, just don't know if I'm crazy ab a hole being drill in the faring for that..

I do have one for running lights next to my powerport, so might stick one more there...

[Guest scarylarry]

YES it would be on or energized the whole time the hi beam is on, and it most likely wouldn't be good for the remote as it is designed as a intermittent RF Transmitter. However there is another way to use this unit and others like it.

 

Us the positive and negative leads off the power point in the faring for power, and trace out the Turn Cancel switch for the trigger to the switch on the remote. There very well could be 5 volts on one side of the turn cancel line, when pushed, but as a trigger that doesn't matter ( or it doesn't on the Goldwings that I have done ) It does require additional wire from the harness to the trigger switch on the remote though. I use .062 molex connectors that I ordered from Allied Elect. Any polarized connector will work.

 

 

Just think of the garage doors that you could open going down the road...

[kj5ix]

I think either I will look at a smal key chain type or I like the switch wire to the remote, just don't know if I'm crazy ab a hole being drill in the faring for that..

 

I do have one for running lights next to my powerport, so might stick one more there...

No need to drill a hole there is a great big gapping hole right behind the light,,,, Run the extra wire from down low in the harness into the faring to the remote, and tap into the power point inside. A lot of weather protection under the hood.

[ToyOdie]

The other problem I see is that the transmitter only uses 1.5 volts and you are hitting it with 12 volts. (constant if you leave the high beams on) I dont think the unit will last very long that way. There was another post that attached a small button that extended from the transmitter to the inner fairing (at a location of your choice) It still used the battery in the transmitter. The only down side was changing the battery at some point.

[Guest scarylarry]

The other problem I see is that the transmitter only uses 1.5 volts and you are hitting it with 12 volts. (constant if you leave the high beams on) I dont think the unit will last very long that way. There was another post that attached a small button that extended from the transmitter to the inner fairing (at a location of your choice) It still used the battery in the transmitter. The only down side was changing the battery at some point.

 

True but how often is that, been using the same one for 4 years...Now watch it go dead tonight..

 

The set up you are talking about also shows a switch being installed in the faring, not 100% sure I want to drill a hole..

[Guest scarylarry]

No need to drill a hole there is a great big gapping hole right behind the light,,,, Run the extra wire from down low in the harness into the faring to the remote, and tap into the power point inside. A lot of weather protection under the hood.

 

Good idea, I'll have to look at it I use the powerport hot wire when I installed the gauges, wouldn't want to over load that wire with gauges and GPS in case I forget unhook, hell at my age I need to get home with....I'll study that tonight I need a project for Saturday

[kj5ix]

There are lots of power pick points under the faring. I also left my duel opener with the battery in it, but have installed them as mentioned to use the bike power. I haven't seen my opener on the GW for about 4 years, and use the opener 12 to 20 times a week, and still have great distance from it when opening a door,,,,, either way it is out of sight, and mind, but always available.

[jemorrisonjr]

use the Flash2Pass system, works great for me..

[Guest tx2sturgis]

My garage door 'opener' is wrapped around the right handgrip. I simply dismount, and use it to open the overhead door.

 

NO wiring needed!

[Sideoftheroad]

Did this mod to my VTX

http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc121/lylejt/Bike%20Pics/MC%20Garage%20Door%20Opener%20mod/

password is welcome

 

One thought is a small chrome button mounted the chrome piece on top of the gas tank. Wiring can still go to the fairing and mount the transmittor inside the fairing. Personal choice to use the bike's juice or its' own battery.

[Guest scarylarry]

Did this mod to my VTX

http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc121/lylejt/Bike%20Pics/MC%20Garage%20Door%20Opener%20mod/

password is welcome

 

One thought is a small chrome button mounted the chrome piece on top of the gas tank. Wiring can still go to the fairing and mount the transmittor inside the fairing. Personal choice to use the bike's juice or its' own battery.

 

That is one option going to study this more anything that keeps from drilling a hole

[The Black Pearl]

i soldered in a couple wires to the contacts of the switch and mounted a new switch behind my seat so as i pull in the drive i reach back and hit the button simple and works great!! just my 2 cents...

[BigBoyinMS]

I just now looked at this thread and remembered one from a couple of years ago either here or on my Road Star forum. In that thread the actual remote or just the PCB was mounted in a dry space and wires were run to the right switch housing to a momentary on micro-switch they mounted there. Then a small (1/16?) hole was drilled through the switch housing for a small pin to poke through.

I'll look for that thread and post here if I find it.

[cecdoo]

Ok guess I'll chime in, I have the Hopnel tank bib, it has a deep pocket, I just put the opener in the bottom of the pocket, button facing up. I just push on top of the pocket, door opens:rasberry: no wires, no holes, no chance of frying anything, those little batteries last years. Craig

[Sylvester]

When riding two up, I come into the drive and hit the brakes real hard. My wife wakes up and says "what the H***" and I say "open the door". Has worked for a long time. I feel a cold draft once in a while...like there is a Grim Reaper near by.

 

[Guest scarylarry]

When riding two up, I come into the drive and hit the brakes real hard. My wife wakes up and says "what the H***" and I say "open the door". Has worked for a long time. I feel a cold draft once in a while...like there is a Grim Reaper near by.

 

 

I never ride 2 up I like the sound of music playing not chin music...:rotfl:

[awsmsrv]

use the Flash2Pass system, works great for me..

+1

 

I tapped into the brake lights instead of the high beam. Tap the brakes lightly twice & "open says me".

[Guest scarylarry]

+1

 

I tapped into the brake lights instead of the high beam. Tap the brakes lightly twice & "open says me".

 

You know a direct wire in on that might work it would not being applying current all the time, unless the amps/volts are to high for a the board in the remote

[a1bummer]

The other problem I see is that the transmitter only uses 1.5 volts and you are hitting it with 12 volts. (constant if you leave the high beams on) I dont think the unit will last very long that way. There was another post that attached a small button that extended from the transmitter to the inner fairing (at a location of your choice) It still used the battery in the transmitter. The only down side was changing the battery at some point.

These remotes actually use a small 12v battery. It is about half as long as a AAA battery and about as big around. So hooking it up directly to the bikes system shouldn't be a problem.

[awsmsrv]

You know a direct wire in on that might work it would not being applying current all the time, unless the amps/volts are to high for a the board in the remote

My "+1" was referring to the F2P (Flash to Pass) system. It's typically tapped into the high beam & when you quickly flash it twice, it activates your garage door. Since I have a headlight modulator that can be turned off or on with a quick flash to the high beam & back to the low beam (or vice versa), I thought it would interfere with the F2P. Therefore, I hooked up the F2P to my brake lights. Hope that clarifies my meaning.