Question for those that have had rotor jump off.

[frankd]

I've got a question for those that have had their stators jump off the crankshaft when they've left the puller on overnight.

 

When I started to pull mine, I loosened the attachment bolt several turns, then attached my puller with 100mm long bolts. I don't see how it could jump off--it still has the attachment bolt that'll stop it in 1/8" or so. You would have to remove the bolt completely for it to jump off, but what would you push on?? Of coures as of this morning when I left for work mine still hadn't come loose. Am I missing something??

 

 

Also, what is special about the PCW Racing puller that make it cost so much?? It says that it's guaranteed to pull the rotor first try. The only difference I see is that the bolts that you screw into the rotor have that piece on them that keeps them straight.

 

 

Frank

[Flyinfool]

First; I took the bolt completely out of the crank. I do not like pushing on a thread that I will reuse under tension.

 

I never did the over night thing, I just cranked on the puller till it came off.

 

My puller has a button that just fits inside of the flywheel and pushes directly on the end of the crank.

 

I had read all of the flying flywheel posts so I tied a string from the puller to the frame so that it could not go anywhere.

 

If yours did not come off yet you haven't cranked it down enough yet, You need to crank on that puller almost a full turn beyond the point that you are sure the puller will break. Your 3 100mm screws should only be finger tight or LESS.

 

The reason the PCW is so expensive is that they broke many different brands till they found a quality one that is strong enough, Then they make some custom parts for the specific application.

[Snaggletooth]

That was me!!!

 

And it was more an accident than anything. Or gremlins.

 

I spent the better part of an evening trying to get mine to come off. I'd tighten and tighten and heat the rotor hub and tighten some more. I'd back off and try again, and again and again.

 

I was using my Snap On harmonic puller and an air impact. Just wasn't working out for me. I gave up and went to bed woke up to it laying in the padding I had been using like it belonged there.

 

When I had quit for the night I had forgotten to release the pressure on the puller. The last thing I had done was heated the hub of the rotor and tightened the puller again. Said a few words of blessing, (or something worse) and walked away from it.

 

Like I said, not a planned event.

 

And as stated......completely remove the bolt from the crankshaft. The threads are not made to deal with that kind of pressure. May cause problems. A good puller set would have a selection of fitting to fit the end of the crankshaft. That hole is tapered so with the proper adaptor the threads will not be touched.

 

Now.....rather than buying a puller if feel yours may not be cutting it......many auto part stores have a loaner program. Cheap. And many rental companies rent tools also for a small fee. If that is available see if you can rent a 1/2 electric impact. Not as good as an air impact but better than a breaker bar.

 

And as you have read.....these come rather suddenly. Not like a harmonic balancer on a straight cut shaft. These are tapered and when they let loose....well.....I don't want one landing in my lap.

 

And resist the urge to beat on it with a hammer......ok. Magnets ya know. Not good.

 

Keep us posted.

 

Mike

[frankd]

Well, I agree that it wouldn't be wise to beat on the stator with a hammer. Also, I see where you both are coming from about removing the stator bolt competely, except I've already applied a lot of force and the threads are still fine===I can turn the bolt with my fingers and feel no tightness.

 

 

I heated the hub up just now, loosened the puller and tightened it again. Hopefully it'll give in. I've been tightening it with my double-hammer air impact. It's not an Ingersoll-Rand but it still produces way more torque than my single hammer impact, which is way stronger than an electric impact. I've already stripped the threads out of a decent harmonic balancer puller. Now I'm using my Harbor Freight special---it seems to be holding up fine so far.

 

 

Did you heat it with a propane torch or an aceteline/oxygen torch?? I heated it with my propane torch and if that isn't enough I could switch to Mapp gas.

 

 

Frank

[Snaggletooth]

I only used my propane, and sparingly at that. I didn't want to create more heat than normal operating temps as well, ya know, rubber seals in there.

 

I think the only reason mine did what it did was the rotor was pretty warm and then the temps dropped pretty fast that night to around 38 degrees in the garage. Just the right combination of hot and cold to break it loose.

 

I know a couple of guys have damaged their pullers getting these things off. Proabably the first time the rotors ahve ever been removed in 25-26 years.

 

Mike

[Flyinfool]

I did not use an impact on it.

You are so close to the strength of the metal of the puller that there is a good chance of the impact breaking something. I just used a 2 foot breaker bar and slow steady increase of pressure till it popped.

[Zane]

That was me!!!

 

And it was more an accident than anything. Or gremlins.

 

I spent the better part of an evening trying to get mine to come off. I'd tighten and tighten and heat the rotor hub and tighten some more. I'd back off and try again, and again and again.

 

I was using my Snap On harmonic puller and an air impact. Just wasn't working out for me. I gave up and went to bed woke up to it laying in the padding I had been using like it belonged there.

 

When I had quit for the night I had forgotten to release the pressure on the puller. The last thing I had done was heated the hub of the rotor and tightened the puller again. Said a few words of blessing, (or something worse) and walked away from it.

 

Like I said, not a planned event.

 

 

Mike,

I was wondering as I've seen a lot of discussion on the how to of removing the rotor! I'm curious how to put one back on. How do you keep it from spinning when you are torqueing it down and what spec do you go by, how many pounds or inch pounds on your torque wrench do you apply?

Zane

[Dano]

There's a keyway cut in the crank and rotor, the actual torque on the bolt is 94 ft lbs. Put the bike in gear and that'll be enough to put the torque on.

[Squeeze]

I use a 32mm flat Box End Wrench to hold the Rotor while tightening.

[Dano]

I use a 32mm flat Box End Wrench to hold the Rotor while tightening.

 

But you get to use your wrench for more than one use!!!!!

 

I shoulda thunk of that myself!

[frankd]

Today when I got home from work, I tried the 'borrowed' AutoZone puller. I tightened it as much as I thought was still slightly safe (very tight), took 2 propane torches and warmed up the hub. When I quit heating, I attached a strap to the puller to stop it in case of a violent exit. I tapped the puller bolt a couple of times with a hammer....nothing. I tightened up the puller a little more and decided to put a pry bar in a strategic place to pull the flywheel (and the free play in the crankshaft bearings) to the left. I was reaching for the hammer and pushing the prybar lightly with my hip and then....kaboom it was off. The 3 rollers fell to the ground and the plate on the back of the rotor looks like it has some wear.

 

It sure feels good to have it off....

 

 

Frank

[Flyinfool]

Hehehe

 

Did we forget to mention that it comes off with a bang?

[Snaggletooth]

You scared it! That was the bikes way of saying "Don't you dare use that pry bar!!" You're in control now. The hard part is over. The only other thing that is hard to get off is the old gasket material that baked on for years. LOL!

[frankd]

Well, tonight I went over to a friends and tried to get his 86 VR to idle. It's had too many winter storage sessions without Stabil.....After I told him that the best bet was to pull the carbs and we could clean them up I came home and took the starter clutch assembly apart.

 

First off, all 3 bolts were loose, and one of them has been rubbing on the gear behind the clutch. Then I see where the main piece is cracked. We can buy Yammie starter clutches for about $120, but I'm going with the Dano upgrade to avoid future trouble.

 

Now, when the rotor jumped off, the rollers fell out. I saw that the sprag clutch pins were gone as were the springs. I found all 3 sprag clutch pins and 1 spring. The other 2 springs may have fallen into my waste oil drain pan--I'll drain the pan through a strainer and see if they're there. If not, who knows what corner of the garage they jumped to. The parts diagram shows a little piece on the the other end of the springs (not the sprag end). Is that correct or do the springs go right into the main piece??

 

Frank

[6m459]

Well, tonight I went over to a friends and tried to get his 86 VR to idle. It's had too many winter storage sessions without Stabil.....After I told him that the best bet was to pull the carbs and we could clean them up .............

Frank

 

I'd be trying some SeaFoam and / or Techron first before I pulled those carbs.

 

Brian H.

[frankd]

He has a trip planned for mid Oct. So I told him to buy some seafoam and try that first.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

S

[Squeeze]

Congrats on getting this sick Rotor off !!!

 

 

 

No need to worry about other missing Parts.

 

 

Three Rollers, three Spings, three Caps is all, the Pins the Parts Diagram show aren't there or are stuck in the Housing.

[frankd]

I found another spring tonight...it was on the inside of the rotor. The 3rd spring is probably underneath a cabinet in my garage. One of the sprags somehow ended up on the right side of the bike. It didn't look like it could have gotten there underneath the bike because I had my oil collecting pan there and it's about 4" high. I also had my garage door open and it could have gone outside and rolled in any direction.

 

Everything is looking better. Got a rear wheel coming next week. I've got a new right side wheel bearing. I'm ordering the seals and the left wheel bearing. A new stator should be here Thursday or Friday, and the rotor is boxed for shipment to Indy.

 

Frank

[Venturous Randy]

I use the same basic principle on getting the rotor off my bike as I do on getting a tie rod off in a car. On a car, I will loosen the nut and strike the end of the loop the tie rod fits down into. That will usually deform the area just enough for a fraction of a second for it to pop loose. I do not beat on the tie rod bolt.

On the rotor, I will put a puller on and tighten it down and then take a long punch and put it in the outside of the tube part that goes on the shaft. I will strike the punch and that side hit will cause the mating surfaces to give and it will pop off. And yes, you do need to have some way to catch it. I have removed several of these and never had a problem getting one off.

RandyA