83 fuel petcock valve

[DesertRider]

I changed out my fuel filter this morning - hate lining up that set-screw that holds the clamp to the fuel tank. When I went to open the fuel valve back up, the little plastic square knob on the fuel shut-off valve shattered like glass. As a temporary measure to get the gas turned back on so I can use it, I'm going to try to jb-quick weld a make-shift knob onto the sheared off plastic that's fairly flush with the metal valve body. If that don't work, anybody got any other ideas ? Also - when I cut the gas off, the indicator in the knob was vertical for on. I think I turned it one/quarter turn to the left to turn it off. Before I put any turning pressure on a glued on know, I wanted to ask if anyone with a working petcock can check and make sure that as you face the valve from the right side of the bike, that the valve needs to go 1/4 turn to the right (if it was a screw that would be the tightening direction to turn it on). Anybody got a petcock valve for sale ?

[bkuhr]

Did same thing and had to replace valve. I marked new valve operating range with blue paint marker. Bottom of valve operates 1/4 turn from slot straight down(on) to left (off).

 

I tried to cut slot into old valve to work screwdriver, and worked 1 time before broke again.

[Snaggletooth]

I got an old one off my '84 but I'm not going to offer it up as I like ya. It's probably as bad or worse than what ya got.

 

Check with Pinwall. They have petcocks all the time for around $10.00. Got one there for mine and it was in fine shape. The '83 did not have the reserve setting if I remember right. So it's just on or off.

 

A small set of vice grips would get ya turned back on. That's all ya need. These bikes, with the fuel pumps, don't need to be turned off all the time. Most guys never shut them off. That's is why the get stuck so bad.

 

Mike

[DesertRider]

Thanks for being considerate snaggletooth ! I started to just plug the fuel lines with a wooden plug and not mess with the valve - sure wish I had done it that way now. I don't believe I can get vice-grips on it now. I have jb-kwik welded a washer where the old square knob was. In a couple more hours Ill see how that does. That jb-kwik aint really very quick when you're waiting on it. I emailed pinwall about a valve. Looked on ebay, there is one with broken handle just like mine ! guy wants $25 for it + $10 shipping. I should put my busted parts up on ebay. haha !

 

I guess the tank has to come out to replace the valve ?

 

If I can get it open I might just leave it in the open position for the next 27 years haha.

Edited September 6, 2010 by DesertRider

[Snaggletooth]

I'm guessing this is the one you looked at on eBay?

 

360229671520

 

There is one from an '84 with a "Best offer". I'd offer $20.00 and see if they take it.

 

400073315533

 

And one off and '86.

 

130422678860

 

Even the NOS one at $59.00 is cheap. New ones sell for about $85.00 I think.

 

I think they are all the same mounting flange. Maybe somebody can confirm that. With the '84 or newer you would get the reserve setting as well.

 

I think some newer models have the fuel output that points towards the front of the bike.

 

As all these fuel tanks are the same, it should work.

 

Anybody?

 

And yes..the tank needs to come off to do it. Not that bad to do. It's a learning experience. Yep.

 

Mike

[bkuhr]

You can snap retaining clamp off valve, pull valve body, and reassemble in on position. Have a catch can to get gas that comes out during. May tear up oring in process though.

[DesertRider]

Thanks fellas. Am trying to run down a valve now. Partshark has new oem for the 83 for $32 + shipping. If I don't hear from pinwall Ill order that one.

 

I have the battery ground disconnected and the seat off. I also have the center pod cover off and the filler-neck boot off, and I have the small frame cross-brace off, the one behind the filler neck, but golly-gee - I never removed the tank before - what do I remove next ? Will the tank lift straight up or out one side ?

 

The tank has about 1 gallon of gas in it. I made a trip yesterday and didn't fill up when I got home.

 

I have about 4 hours of daylight left here. It would be nice if I can have the tank out this evening - what a way to spend a holiday huh ? I love it !!

Edited September 6, 2010 by DesertRider

[dingy]

I don,t know if this will help, but attached are a couple of pictures at the point where I put fuel tank back into bike & just before it went in.

 

Also a couple with sub frame back on.

 

Pretty much you need to remove the rear sub frame.

 

Gary

Edited September 6, 2010 by dingy
added picture

[Snaggletooth]

Ok you're in for it now. LOL!

 

Ok. Start with this thread by Dano. He's doing rear end work but it's start on removing the rear subframe......which is required to remove the fuel tank.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52626

 

Once you have the side panels, saddlebags, seat and other odds and ends off you will see the 4 points where the subframe bolts on. Unplug and disconnect all the lines for the electrical and C.L.A.S.S. system if you have that. And the bolt on top of the bracket for the fuel tank. I think Dan forgot about that until the last minute. It's easier than it sounds. Once you get all the bolts loose, if you have a friend handy, you can slide the bolts out and lift it up and off. From that point you're golden. The tank slips back from it's brackets and you can lift it off. I don't know how big a guy you are but it can be done by one guy with some effort. Ask my back. Awkward to do but possible.

 

Don't forget the bracket that the false tank cover bolts into. It has four bolts to hold it and it has to come off to slide the tank off.

 

By simply unplugging everything on the subframe you can do it without removing all the stuff attached to it. Save a lot of time coming off and going back on.

 

Less parts to misplace to.

 

As you still have gas in it .......... use all caution ok. Drained and vented is the safest way.

 

Mike

[Snaggletooth]

There ya go. Dingy is a little quicker with fingers but those pics should help a bit.

 

And I'm going to say this. While you have the tank out....remove the fuel level sending unit and take a look long look at the inside of the fuel tank. If you have rust....now is the time to deal with it. You probably are not going to want to go this far again in the near future. A good time for reseal the tank if needed. Or at least get it cleaned out real well.

 

Mike

Edited September 6, 2010 by Snaggletooth

[DesertRider]

Thanks guys. I'm just about there (I think)

--UPDATE--

It's all the way off guys. I wouldn't have tackled it today if you hadn't told me it was not too bad so and you were right, it wasn't bad at all. I thank you all for that and the pics too dingy, that helped. The only bad part about the whole thing is I had to remove that daw-gone set screw from the filter that I just spent all morning long trying to put back on ! Overall, it' not to dirty in there, mostly heavy layers of dust. I'm going to pull that float now and take a peek inside.

Edited September 6, 2010 by DesertRider

[skydoc_17]

Hey Michael,

Don't forget to get part #10 as well, the special petcock O'Ring.

Earl

[DesertRider]

The float and sending unit look close to new. Very clean, even the float. The tank looks pretty clean but when I poured out the remaining gas (which by the was was less than 1 pint ! I almost didn't make it back yesterday ! ) it has a very slight rusty tint to the color. Not very rusty but you could see a slight rust tint to the color. Looking in the tank with a flashlight it's mostly pretty clean metal with a few rust pimples. I attribute that our near zero humidity year round here. What would be the best way to clean this puppy up ?

[Snaggletooth]

You should not ask me how to clean a tank. LOL!!! I went the whole ticket and coated mine with epoxy,

 

BUT.....I'll spare you that story. A tube of BB's, or a couple hand fulls of nuts, or any small metal object that would you would NOT normally put in your tank. Take up the holes and shake, shake, shake, shake, and shake some more and take a break and then shake, shake, shake and shake some more. You want to break down as much of the surface rust as you can.

 

Oh yeah.....magnetic stuff is good in case you have something that don't want to come out. Long story.

 

Get the picture.

 

Then a nice rince with Acetone or if not handy a bottle of rubbing alcohol will do. NO SMOKENING!!!!

 

If you chose to use something like Jack, or Cutty.....call me first. We will need to test for quaility.

 

I forgot where you lived. That envirionment helps a bunch.

 

Mike

[DesertRider]

Well, I did a speed-clean (now that I know how to get it all apart I'll be more thorough when I have more time, need to use it tomorrow if possible). Took the valve apart and put it in the "open" position, and am now re-assembling.

 

I have one question. What holds the front-half of the rear fender in place. I am nearly ready to put the seat on and that fender piece is loose and I don't see a thing that holds it in place. Don't tell me now that I've forgotten something ?????!!!!

 

Will be ready to put seat on and gas it up as soon as I find out something about that fender.!

***UPDATE****

I did a jury-rig with a couple of screws and heavy wire to hold the fender in place - will do it right later. It's almost all together. I'm leaving the bags, trunk, side covers and mufflers off till tomorrow. Yes, you read right - the mufflers. ! That out to be a hoot when I pull up at

the office tomorrow !

Going to get gas - running out of daylight fast !

Edited September 7, 2010 by DesertRider

[Snaggletooth]

That plastic inner fender kind of fits into the upper section. If you look close you will the the slots where it snaps in. It's can be a bit of a trick the first time you do it to but make sure you get it fitted in tight. The are a couple of tabs (I think) where the lower front sides snap into each side also. It should be firm once you get it in right. Don't want that to work loose on the road.

 

No bolts or screws.....just the pressure fit.

[DesertRider]

All Done - thanks to all my friends on this board !

 

Went for a little ride and the only thing I have to go back on is for some reason my left-rear turn-signal is out. Probably the plug under the seat, no big deal. No leaks, drips, or drop accumulations anywhere.!

 

With all the plastic off, side covers, bags, trunk, and the mufflers out of the way, that drive line does make some noise going down the road. With the mufflers off you have to let off the gas to hear the drive line but it sounds like the rear-end whine that RSV owners complain about, or used to complain about.

 

Thanks again fellas, I wouldn't have attempted it without ya !

 

Thanks bkuhr for the suggestion to just put the old valve in the open position and re-use it. I am ready to ride it tomorrow for listening to that one !

 

as for the fender - I saw how the rear fits the front part at the top. But the tabs on the bottom are missing. They were probably there since the fender has always stayed in place, but fell out when I was taking it apart. I'll look for them tomorrow, they're probably still there where I was working. For now, I have put a couple of screws in and have it wired tightly in place until I can find or replace the tabs.

Edited September 7, 2010 by DesertRider

[Dano]

The front half of the rear fender has two tabs on either side that slide onto two tabs on the back of the gas tank. I would suggest putting that on before the sub-frame (I know-too late!) but I was able to get mine in there after I had re-assembled the sub-frame to the bike (and hey Sourpuss- I mean Snaggle- I did it BY MYSELF even with the hitch on there!) and the upper rear of that piece goes over the back half. That's all that holds it in!

 

You done good Grasshopper (Desertrider!) by going in and tackling this. You are well on your way to doing anything to this bike that you need to! And BTW, how DOES that puppy sound without the mufflers?

 

Dano

[DesertRider]

Hey Dano ! Thanks for chiming in. Yep, I'm proud of myself today. I'm not real real real mechanical but I'm not afraid to tackle a big job if somebody kind of helps me get started with it, so I always ask before diving in too deep !

 

As for the mufflers being off - the sound is TOTALLY AWESOME if you like loud bikes - my wife says it's ear-splitting but she's a woman right ?. Louder than any straight-pipe V-Twins Harley or metric. I actually like it and wouldn't mind running like that for a while if I thought it wouldn't hurt the engine. It seems like it has more punch at low speeds than with the mufflers.

[Dano]

No restrictions= great low end power, need tuned restriction for a good top end. Unless of course you have unlimited horsepower. Then you just need some short tubes to direct the flames!

 

Good job, have fun putting her all the way back together.

 

Dan

[Condor]

There's a knob on the reserve valve.. Never did have one on the '83's. Just left it on open, and never missed it...

[DesertRider]

Another venturerider just offered me a new petcock valve, thanks bongobobny !

 

Here's a pic of my work in progress yesterday - how do you like that nice garage floor ?