Coils draining battery?

[Zippy69]

Checked the stator and all seems good. Not going to ground.

Got the carbs to stop pouring fuel out the overflows, but must be gummed up inside. Won't stay running without spraying carb cleaner in it. Thought it might start to pull fuel on it's own, but doesn't seem likely.

I'm starting to wonder if there was a charging problem to begin with. So far, everything has checked out good, and I watched the voltage meter while it was running and it was going above 12v as I rev'ed it up.

Who knows, maybe I'll be lucky and this thread wasn't even needed.

But still lots of thanks for everyone who chimed in with the good advice, it was a big help.

[frankd]

Zippy,

 

I'm glad your stator is good. When you get it running reasonably good, charge the battery fully and then start the bike. Run it at 3,000 RPM and measure the voltage across the battery---it should be 14.5 Volts, plus or minus .5 volt. The First Gen Ventures that I've worked on all were on the low end of this, probably about 14.2 volts.

 

Frank

[bkuhr]

Checked the stator and all seems good. Not going to ground.

Got the carbs to stop pouring fuel out the overflows, but must be gummed up inside. Won't stay running without spraying carb cleaner in it. Thought it might start to pull fuel on it's own, but doesn't seem likely.

I'm starting to wonder if there was a charging problem to begin with. So far, everything has checked out good, and I watched the voltage meter while it was running and it was going above 12v as I rev'ed it up.

Who knows, maybe I'll be lucky and this thread wasn't even needed.

But still lots of thanks for everyone who chimed in with the good advice, it was a big help.

 

Congrats on the electrical system, as far as getting it running lets try a base line sync.

 

Back off idle screw,

With air cleaner off, look down in carb throat, hold sliders open and work throttle-see how butterflies work.

Now adjust sync adjust screws in accordance with sync procedure, except you are trying to adjust butterflies until they are completely closed in the throats.

Now adjust idle screw until butterflies just barley crack open.

 

Also good practice of how doing sync later with sync sticks/gages

 

Now start it up and adjust idle screw enough to keep it running, unless there are other problems such as no fuel.....

[Flyinfool]

I will double check the amp draw. I may have misread it, which is likely.

I"ll look for the other fuse box, but the bike is all apart and I did not see one, but I wasn't looking for it either.

Thanks again for all the excellent advice and pointers.

 

Did you ever double check the amp draw reading?

 

If you are really pulling 500mA (1/2 amp) with everything turned off then you need to get that found and fixed before you start messing with the charging system. Fix one known problem at a time. Whatever electrical problem is causing that draw could give you false readings in the charging tests and send you down a bad path.

[GeorgeS]

See block diagram pager 7-11 Note item #72 a Condensor ( capacitory ) its connected to the Red wire output of the Regulator that goes to the ignition switch.

 

Mine is mounted on the right side of bike just under the Seat. Its a small black plastic looking item .

 

OK, Condensors have a very high resistance across them. BUT, they do go short, or can also be in some state of good, and bad. Find the Capacitor, follow the wires from it to a pull apart plug and disconnect it.

 

Might be the current draw problem. If dissconnected, it will not effect anything. Its just there as a Filter a noise filter for the radio.

 

One other item, you mentiond the charge voltage is above 12V --- It should be higher then 13.5. About 13.8 is considered normal !!

At about 2000 RPM you DC on the Battery should read at least 13.8V DC.

[Zippy69]

The amp draw was .5 ma. I couldn't get a true voltage output, because the carbs are all varnished up on inside. I can keep the engine running on carb cleaner, but it won't draw fuel through the carbs. I hope today to pull the carbs and clean them, then it should run.

[Zippy69]

Got bike to run, but only with choke on. Carbs still gunked.

At 2k rpm's charging output was 13.52 volts. Seems like it's charging ok.

Now I need to bleed the clutch, but either the Master or the slave is bad. I figure the slave is the likely culprit, so I'll order a rebuild kit and fix that.

[bkuhr]

. Carbs still gunked. Got bike to run, but only with choke on

At 2k rpm's charging output was 13.52 volts. Seems like it's charging ok.

Now I need to bleed the clutch, but either the Master or the slave is bad. I figure the slave is the likely culprit, so I'll order a rebuild kit and fix that.

 

Check for air leaks under carbs, with engine idling -with choke on if necessary, spray carb cleaner around carb boots, YICS box, all vacum hoses, sync plugs, etc and check for change in idle rpm. If idle changes, you have an air leak. It needs fixed before you will run normal

 

.5ma drain with all off and charge 13.5 seems like your electrical system is going to be ok. I think you should be closer to 14 volts charging, when you get to 3000-3500 rpm.

[Zippy69]

The bike sat for @2 years with old gas in in the carbs. I'm sure the draw tubes are gunked up with varnish, so I'm going to pull the carb assembly and clean the bowls and float seat.

[Zippy69]

Pulled the carbs off (lots of fun), and check the diaphrams. No tears or worn places.

But I can't seem to find a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit. I found one for the slave though.

Anybody got a good supplier?

Also, is there an easy way to pull the float bowls without having to disassemble the whole carb assembly?

[Squeeze]

Pulled the carbs off (lots of fun), and check the diaphrams. No tears or worn places.

But I can't seem to find a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit. I found one for the slave though.

Anybody got a good supplier?

Also, is there an easy way to pull the float bowls without having to disassemble the whole carb assembly?

 

 

There's a Rebuilt-Kit from "Tourmax", maybe Sirius Inc (the Supplier where the cheaper Diaphragm Replacements come from) may help you out on that.

 

On the Carbs.... Sorry, but no, you need to go the hard Way and splt at least the Set in Halves.

[Zippy69]

Cleaned the carbs, gunked to high Heaven.

Now discovered that one of the drain screws is missing. Can these be bought?

I could just plug it with a piece of o-ring and a screw, but I would like the right part.

Fired the bike up but no change in the way it runs. Idles great, but as soon as any throttle is given, it wants to die. I think I'm going to check the coils and plugs. Any other ideas?

[bkuhr]

Check for air leaks under carbs, with engine idling -with choke on if necessary, spray carb cleaner around carb boots, YICS box, all vacum hoses, sync plugs, etc and check for change in idle rpm. If idle changes, you have an air leak. It needs fixed before you will run normal

 

Still need to check for vacum leaks, you probably good on most items when you removed carbs, but YICS chambers are VERY prone to leak. Most here recommend remove them and plug ports.

[Zippy69]

Still need to check for vacum leaks, you probably good on most items when you removed carbs, but YICS chambers are VERY prone to leak. Most here recommend remove them and plug ports.

 

YICS chambers?

This seems to be more than a vacuum leak.

[bkuhr]

YICS chambers?

 

 

YICS chambers used for fuel economy, did not make much differance and not really needed. They are the plastic box mounted forward of the carbs with the 4 vacum lines going directly to the heads. They have 4 compartments, that need to be isolated from each other and from atmosphere. And hoses need to not leak.

 

This seems to be more than a vacuum leak.

 

Think of it like this. You idle ok. Air and fuel mix is ok. Fuel coming only from idle ports(assuming no carb problems) and butterflies are nearly closed.

Now you roll on throttle and this opens butterflies. Adds more Air and needs more fuel to keep good mix. As butterflies open and rpm increases, more vacum produced, and vacum used to pull open carb sliders, opening main fuel needle, increasing main fuel from main pilot ports maintaining air fuel mix. A vacum leak will keep sliders from opening, or opening slow/late. Could be in 1 or more carbs. Clogged ports in carb can also cause same problems in blocking vacum, air and or fuel.

[Zippy69]

pulled the YICS box and plugged all the lines. Zero difference.

After it had ran for a few minutes, noticed that front right cylinder was not as warm as others. Pulled the plug and had fuel on it.

As soon as wife gets back from parts store, I'll swap the plugs and try again.

[Zippy69]

All cylinders seem to be firing. Still can only idle with choke on. Spray a little carb cleaner and it revs up like a dream. I have no idea what could be going on. If there is something in the carbs, I don't know where. I sprayed all the passages clean. :confused24::confused24::confused24::confused24::confused24::confused24::confused24::confused24::confused24::confused24:

[bkuhr]

Check out these posts I had with my carbs. Carb problems are a PITA, but overall I believe, If you are sure you have no vacum leakes, you need to do a complete carb breakdown and cleaning. Need to ensure you can spray carb cleaner (wear eye glasses)thru every port and jet. IMO the jets in the jet block can not be cleaned except by disassembly. Do not clean ports/jets with any kind of wire. After I messed mine up, I thought I should have used ultrasonic cleaner to try to clear plugged jets. Be advised-plan to replace all orings and gaskets. About $80 worth.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51716

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52265

[Zippy69]

PITA is right. GeorgeS sent me a PM telling me about the air box. I had it all the way off. (Thanks George!!!!).

I put the air box back on, made sure all the flanges went over the carb tops correctly. I started it up and now I can rev it up as long as the choke is on. Turn the choke off and it dies. I'll pull the carbs again and clean again. I sprayed with a tube stuck down in the passages and all seemed clear. But oh well. Since I'm now an expert at pulling the carbs, it will be a piece of cake.