Coolant bypass valve

[DesertRider]

I found this thread about the correct positioning of the coolant bypass valve with a couple of images of the valve that snaggletooth posted (thanks snaggletooth) and thought I would check mine since I checked the fan already and it's working. I found that my valve needs to be turned a little further to be fully in the off position, but what I also saw was that there is no plug in the small holes on the top and left of the valve and I know there never have been since I've owned the bike any way, 10 years or so. The valve in the other thread shows a screw plugging the left hole but I can't see the top. Also, I've only drained the coolant in this thing twice in the past 7 or 8 years and I drained the old coolant by pulling the hose off the top of this valve. Should I pull the bypass valve to drain old coolant, and how does the valve come out of the valve-body for draining? Turning the valve always makes me nervous. It's hard to turn and really creaks and I'm always afraid of breaking it.

[bkuhr]

The screw on the left screws into a slot of the plastic valve, and is what keeps valve from pulling straight out (answer to your removal question). Hopefully screw not broke off leaving shaft in the body. Will be real tough to get valve out then.

 

Hole in the top is the stop point for spring loaded ball bearing in the plastic valve.

 

If you do pull valve, have new o-ring ready, will likely need replaced.

[Condor]

Drain the coolant by the plug on the bottom of the waterpump. The only thing you have to do is turn the 'drain' valve to the on position, and the coolant will by-pass the thermostat.

[DesertRider]

thanks fellas. I didn't see the waterpump drain but Ill take another look in the daylight tomorrow. I think Ill take a closer look with a magnifying glass and make sure whether or not the set screw is missing in the valve too. Been holding like that for lots of years but would sure hate to lose it all on the road somewhere. If I eventually need to replace the valve, where is good place to buy it online ?

[Snaggletooth]

The screw is missing? You're not the first one. Been a few that the the spring loaded ball bearing, (the detent) was about the only thing holding it in.

 

You might try a few drops of oil in the top hole in the housing to loosen up the drain valve.

 

If and when, if even possible, that you pull the drain valve out you will find the the plastic valve itself has a groove in it that the screw rides in, and it is a special screw, that retains the valve in place. There is a hole in the plastic body of the valve that has a spring and a ball bearing in it that is what's holds the valve in the correct position. (the holes you mentioned in the housing) Wrap a rag around it when you pull it out to avoid chasing the parts around the floor.

 

And the issue of the screw being broken off, that can be a bugger. The valve body is not going the slide out of the housing if the screw shaft is stll engaged into the groove.

 

Take a pick or a small nail or such and see how far in it will go into the screw hole. If it goes in about 3/8th of an inch you are missing the whole screw. That would be a good thing. If so, you can remove the valve and clean it up and reseal it. If the screw is broken off....that's another headache.

 

Now....if you get it loosened up and able to slide the valve body out...get ahold of Skydoc_17 and order the drain valve kit. New O-ring, SS Allen head screw ground to fit and install them. A good fix to avoid future leaks.

 

And as mentioned the valve is only to control the flow of coolant through or around the thermostat. The drain plug to drain the entire system is on the bottom of the water pump. Valve to "ON"....to drain. Valve to "OFF".....run the bike. Kind of like Windows.

 

Push "Start" to "End". D'oh!

 

Mike

[DesertRider]

Thanks snaggletooth. I just placed an order with skydoc_17 for the o-ring & screw upgrade kit for my valve. A nail goes all the way into the hole, probably 3/8" to 7/16" deep before it stops so there isn't any broken screw left in there. I'm hoping the threads are still good in the hole. I know that screw has been out of there for years and I never really gave any thought to why that hole was there. With trips to Nevada, Ca, Co and all over NM, I guess I'm lucky I never lost that valve on the road.

[Trader]

the actual drain plug is on the Right of the motor...near the front.

 

Just below where the coolant pipe enters the right front case.

[Snaggletooth]

If it was creaking when you tried to turn it.....it would most likely NEVER fall out on its own. LOL!!

 

Use a set of channel locks or vice grips to grip the outer section. Squirt a little oil around the valve and gently work it back and forth while pulling it towards the front of the bike. Sooner or later it will slip out. Don't forget about that spring and ball bearing. Hard to find once they are on the move.

 

Clean the inner part of the housing up with a piece of Scotchbrite pad and do the plastic valve body also. Install the new o-ring, a little lube and slide it back together. No more drips, easy to feel the detent when changing the position on the valve.

 

That's one problem on it's way to being solved!

 

Now as a added bonus......if the time ever comes when the thermostat sticks shut causing you to over heat......just move the valve to the "On" position. That as said, will allow the coolant to bypass the thermostat and continue moving through the system until you can make proper repairs and replace the thermo. Not a fix..but a "get by" in an emergency.

 

 

Mike

[DesertRider]

thanks again snaggletooth. I guess I should have learned a little more about simple things to check like this before now but that's the way it is when you have a machine that's so dependable and well built that it runs mile after mile, year after year with little or no problems ever surfacing.

 

Just to be sure, is this the coolant drain plug you were talking about trader ?

Edited September 2, 2010 by DesertRider

[Trader]

I THINK so.....perhaps someone can confirm that.

 

I tore the front off mine getting to the starter...and had some sheared off bolts etc so I ended up taking off the thermostat housing etc also so I never actually had to to use the drain.

[Snaggletooth]

Yep, dat's da one.

[DesertRider]

Ok, I just discovered the little "thanks" buttons and clicked them.

 

Since my new O-ring and screw won't be here till next week, I'll probably go ahead and ride it to Santa Fe, about 135 miles each way, to see my son and granddaughter this Saturday. That plastic valve has had years to come loose and has never leaked a drop and I don't see it happening now just because I'm aware of the missing screw now. As tight as it is in there, I'm really more concerned about being able to get it out for repair at all next week !

[GaryZ]

This is a very timely thread. Last week I turned the bypass valve to 'ON' and drained / refilled the system (bypass back to 'OFF'). However, the system did not get full and the bike overheated. After cool-down I filled the system full and buttoned her up. Everything appeared to be good.

 

The next day I have a small puddle of coolant. The bypass valve is now leaking.

 

I found this thread telling me there is an 'O' ring. I removed the set screw without any trouble. I cannot get the valve out.

 

What is the secret? Inquiring minds need to know . . .

[Snaggletooth]

Ok ya got the screw out. Now you are going to have to find some channel locks or lock grips that you can get ahold of the front of the plastic valve with. You can rock it back and forth and gently work it forward, to the front of the bike. It will work out. Depends on how long it's been in there.

 

Remember about the ball bearing (the detent) and the spring inside that valve body. Wrap a rag around the valve while you are pulling it out to make sure you don't have to go looking for it.

 

Skydoc_17 has that lil kit with the new o-ring and hex drive screw. Not a bad idea. I put one in mine. No more winter drips.

 

As far as filling the sytem, top off the radiator and replace the cap then check the over flow bottle. Run the bike until it gets hot and check the over flow again. It's best to top it off from there to get the system completely filled.

 

Mike

[GaryZ]

Ok ya got the screw out. Now you are going to have to find some channel locks or lock grips that you can get ahold of the front of the plastic valve with. You can rock it back and forth and gently work it forward, to the front of the bike.

Mike

 

I have tried;

channel lock pliers

vise grip pliers

gorilla pliers

needle-nose pliers

 

The valve head will rock, but, it will not pull out. The result is the head of the valve is getting damaged and I have pinched my hands in a dozen places.

 

Any other ideas?

[Snaggletooth]

As a last resort I'd try a small pick in each side of the valve to try to pry it forward a bit. The o-ring is towards the rear so that should be out of the way.

 

Stupid question but I'm going to ask anyway. Are you sure you got the entire screw out, right down to the tapered part? I know some have mentioned breaking them off.

 

Sorry, I had to go for the simple stuff first.

 

Some rust buster around the valve to break up the crude.....

 

It might help a little to make sure the ball detent is turned away form the hole in the housing (at the top) with some oil in the hole........

 

You might shoot DesertRider a PM. He rode his for a long time with no screw in it at all. He hasn't posted back on rather or not he got his out to do the o-ring. If he has, he might have some thoughts.

 

It took me a good 20 minutes to work mine out. Just wiggle work.

 

Mike

[Flyinfool]

OK, I'll jump in here to.

Last fall I put in skydocs kit and now that it is getting cold at night I have the infamous cold drip again.

This morning there was an AF spot about 2 feet by 3 feet. at the front of the bike.

It only looses about 2 or 3 oz per week, but it is annoying.

It only leaks on my floor, never a drop leaks at work sitting all day after a 20 mile ride.

20 miles back home and there will be the puddle by morning.

Usually it is just a few drops. It was just this morning with the big spot, but not a single drop at work again today.

 

All I can think of is to get another oring, and polish the bore.

[GaryZ]

As a last resort I'd try a small pick in each side of the valve to try to pry it forward a bit. The o-ring is towards the rear so that should be out of the way.

 

Stupid question but I'm going to ask anyway. Are you sure you got the entire screw out, right down to the tapered part? I know some have mentioned breaking them off.

 

Sorry, I had to go for the simple stuff first.

 

Some rust buster around the valve to break up the crude.....

 

It might help a little to make sure the ball detent is turned away form the hole in the housing (at the top) with some oil in the hole........

 

You might shoot DesertRider a PM. He rode his for a long time with no screw in it at all. He hasn't posted back on rather or not he got his out to do the o-ring. If he has, he might have some thoughts.

 

It took me a good 20 minutes to work mine out. Just wiggle work.

 

Mike

 

OK. I finally got it out.

I used tile-cutter pliers! These things have a horizontal cutting edge that I was able to clamp to the head of the bypass valve to wiggle it free. The down side is the head has been damaged and I can no longer read 'ON' or 'OFF'. The up side is that I have installed a new O-ring and my leak should be fixed.

[camos]

It's not supposed to get cold enough in Victoria for this to happen but I've got the cold weather puddle syndrome happening. Looked on the parts fiche and did not see the o-ring listed, just the valve assembly. Found a few threads regarding ordering a new o-ring so I assume it is not an off the shelf item. Anyone know what the part number is?

[Condor]

 

All I can think of is to get another oring, and polish the bore.

 

Maybe a hairline crack in the on/off cap??? Or a damaged 'new' 'o-ring'???

[Flyinfool]

Clive

You can order the parts from Skydoc_17. He has a kit with new o-ring and a stainless socket head cap screw that is much easier to work with than the stock Phillips head screw.

 

Maybe a hairline crack in the on/off cap??? Or a damaged 'new' 'o-ring'???

Well it has been 4 years since I posted that and the new o-ring and polishing the bore is still holding.

[camos]

Maybe a hairline crack in the on/off cap??? Or a damaged 'new' 'o-ring'???

I guess you have already been told but.........

[camos]

Clive

You can order the parts from Skydoc_17. He has a kit with new o-ring and a stainless socket head cap screw that is much easier to work with than the stock Phillips head screw.

I considered doing that but it is such a PITA getting anything across the border that I thought I would look into just getting that o-ring first.

[Prairiehammer]

...I thought I would look into just getting that o-ring first.

 

Clive,

I have one of Skydoc's kits and I just measured the O-ring: 1mm x ~19.5-19.6mm OD

[dna9656]

I have tried;

channel lock pliers

vise grip pliers

gorilla pliers

needle-nose pliers

 

The valve head will rock, but, it will not pull out. The result is the head of the valve is getting damaged and I have pinched my hands in a dozen places.

 

Any other ideas?

 

I do not have any great secret to reveal about the removal of the valve. I can tell what may be binding it the hole is most likely dried anti freeze and/or crud from the motor that's in suspension in the anti freeze (AKA crud); the screw could be broken off at a point you can't see it but it's sticking up far enough that it catches on the steel housing (tube) keeping it in place, also there may be a dent or other distortion in the steel tube that makes the tube out of round or won't allow the valve to pass through the tube.

BTW E-Bay and Amazon are excellent sources of used parts.