Bummer Posted August 29, 2010 #26 Posted August 29, 2010 The shop manual was created for the 1999 model year and has never been updated since the original printing; that was when the RSV Owner's Manual also specified 8,000 mile change interval. The Owner's Manual is updated every year, and all of them from 2004 on specify a 4,000 mile change interval. I doesn't make a bit of difference to me what interval someone uses (unless I am considering buying their bike) - I'm just letting y'all know what the books say and why. Goose I didn't mean to crank you up this early on a Sunday morning. Sorry about that. I really wasn't disagreeing with you. Honest. I guess I should have put that part toward the beginning of the paragraph. My bad. Personally, I still think it was a typo. Like the carb sync. Little Japanese guy - no speakie engrish. Woops. I don't know of any vehicle manufacturer (cars and bikes) that suggests an 8k oil change interval. But of course I've been wrong before. I expect to be wrong again. Probably soon. I change oil at 4k for dino and 5k for synthetic (because it's easy to remember now that I'm not-young) and I change the filter every time. I am also not willing to sell my bike to anybody. That being said, I'll go off to the corner and sit quietly.
fordpol Posted August 29, 2010 #27 Posted August 29, 2010 I change oil and filter every 5000km easy to remember. :-) On drive oil change will do at recomended interval. Waiting to get bike back - bearing in rear dif crapped out replacing whole dif under warranty at 10,000km. Sounded like dragging brake pad but on the other side :-( Ken
SilvrT Posted August 29, 2010 Author #28 Posted August 29, 2010 Man, you sure did stir the pot!! Makes me wonder just how many authorized Yamaha experts we have on this site after all... ya ... I like to do that sometimes... just coz. It's always interesting to read folk's responses. One thing tho... I'm not tryin to PO anyone or get anyone's feathers ruffled ... just throwin my thoughts out there to see what comes back.
Brake Pad Posted August 29, 2010 #29 Posted August 29, 2010 Lets put it this way, every time I change the rear tire, I change the drive shaft oil, along with regreasing the spindle
LilBeaver Posted August 29, 2010 #30 Posted August 29, 2010 ... just throwin my thoughts out there to see what comes back. That is why I am staying tuned - I'm interested to hear from the folks on the extremes of the 'issue'...
GeorgeS Posted August 29, 2010 #31 Posted August 29, 2010 Just change the Rear Lube, every time you replace the Rear Tire --- I'm sure the the maker of the universe will be proud of you! And, 1/2 qt. or so of oil, whats the big deal? Engine oil? Use Synthetic, most any brand, change in the spring and fall, if you run about 10K a year.
bryan52577 Posted August 29, 2010 #32 Posted August 29, 2010 I I don't know of any vehicle manufacturer (cars and bikes) that suggests an 8k oil change interval. But of course I've been wrong before. I expect to be wrong again. Probably soon. I change oil at 4k for dino and 5k for synthetic (because it's easy to remember now that I'm not-young) and I change the filter every time. I am also not willing to sell my bike to anybody. That being said, I'll go off to the corner and sit quietly. Now you know someone just had to check, didn't you. LOL! Toyota Upping the Oil Change Interval to 10,000 Miles for 2010 Prius, other Toyota models . Share6 http://priuschat.com/sites/default/files/publisher/10000mileoil.jpg With some new 2010 Prius owners being charged $100+ for an oil change due to the 0W-20 synthetic oil requirements, we have some good news. PriusChat forum member Sphyrna has posted a document provided by his dealership in Miami showing that the 2010 Prius oil change interval will be changed to 10,000 miles instead of the current 5,000 miles. The document appears to be a training material for dealerships and contains other pages showing that the 2010 4 cylinder Camry, the 4.6L Tundra and Sequoia, the FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, and Scion XD are all also included in this oil change interval update. While Toyota officially has said that no updates have been made to the oil change interval policies, these documents look pretty official and I'd say it's only a matter of time before Toyota confirms this change. Most likely they are training dealerships on it now and then they will issue a software update to keep your car from reminding you to get service every 5,000 miles. The cost of the 0W-20 oil change has been a source of heartburn for a lot of 2010 owners, so it's great to see Toyota changing their tune.
V7Goose Posted August 29, 2010 #33 Posted August 29, 2010 I don't know of any vehicle manufacturer (cars and bikes) that suggests an 8k oil change interval. But of course I've been wrong before. I expect to be wrong again. Probably soon. Well, I do not know of any specific recommendation for an 8,000 mile change interval (other than the 1999-2003 Yamaha Royal Star Ventures!), but I do know of some that have a LONGER change interval. My 2000 Jaguar XJ8 had a 10,000 mile change interval, and my 2007 XJ8 also has a 10,000 mile change interval. Worked out fine on the 2000 - I had 120,000 on that engine before some kid totaled it for us, and then my local mechanic still paid me $8,000 for the engine to put in another Jag. Goose
Guest tx2sturgis Posted August 29, 2010 #34 Posted August 29, 2010 Wait...go back...yall are sayin that these bikes have oil in the final drive? Whats a 'final drive'?
Snarley Bill Posted August 29, 2010 #35 Posted August 29, 2010 i don't agree with anybody on oil changes. it's all about piece of mind. i have four bikes and use different intervals and types of oil on all of them. from an engineering stand point i look at the type of engine, type of riding, and the fact that a bike costs as much as a car, then decide on how overkill it is to change as often as i do. cost and taking the time to do it is the last thing i think about. it just makes me feel good to take excellent care of my bikes and motor vehicals. so there you are.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted August 29, 2010 #36 Posted August 29, 2010 Just for grins, most on-highway semis go for 20,000 to 40,000 miles per oil change, but they hold about 10-12 GALLONS of oil, and of course, dont see much short-trip heating-cooling cycles. Most of these big diesel engines use two large oil filters. Also, the drive tires on a semi can get up to about 250,000 miles (about 2 years of use) on them sometimes, before they need to be changed. Steer tires can see 100,000 miles.( about a year or so) Of course, those tires can cost over $300 a piece and you need 10 tires on a normal tractor. On the other hand, we dont see motorcycle 'gators' sitting on the highway on a hot day either!
Nemo Posted August 29, 2010 #37 Posted August 29, 2010 Hello Guys!! Since this is the first time that I recall reading your comments about the rear drive oil, I have a couple of questions. What type of oil, how much and how do you accomplish the project? Thank You! Nemo.
Bummer Posted August 29, 2010 #38 Posted August 29, 2010 Now you know someone just had to check, didn't you. LOL! Toyota Upping the Oil Change Interval to 10,000 Miles for 2010 Prius, other Toyota models ... ... My 2000 Jaguar XJ8 had a 10,000 mile change interval, and my 2007 XJ8 also has a 10,000 mile change interval. ... Well, I didn't... And it didn't take long either. Just for grins, most on-highway semis go for 20,000 to 40,000 miles per oil change, but they hold about 10-12 GALLONS of oil, and of course, dont see much short-trip heating-cooling cycles. Most of these big diesel engines use two large oil filters. ... Now, those numbers don't surprise me. I couldn't have tossed 'em out but I knew the intervals were up there. That's why I said car/motorcycle. Just Googled "Goldwing oil change interval". Looks like it's 8000 miles on the 1800. Oh well, live and learn.
buddy Posted August 29, 2010 #39 Posted August 29, 2010 Well, I do not know of any specific recommendation for an 8,000 mile change interval (other than the 1999-2003 Yamaha Royal Star Ventures!), but I do know of some that have a LONGER change interval. My 2000 Jaguar XJ8 had a 10,000 mile change interval, and my 2007 XJ8 also has a 10,000 mile change interval. Worked out fine on the 2000 - I had 120,000 on that engine before some kid totaled it for us, and then my local mechanic still paid me $8,000 for the engine to put in another Jag. Goose You have a Mechanic? you mean there's actually someone out there that works on your stuff? WOW how that taste coming out of your mouth "MY" local Mechanic
BuddyRich Posted August 29, 2010 #40 Posted August 29, 2010 http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/askmobil/Long_Drain_Intervals_in_a_BMW.aspx
SilvrT Posted August 30, 2010 Author #41 Posted August 30, 2010 Hello Guys!! Since this is the first time that I recall reading your comments about the rear drive oil, I have a couple of questions. What type of oil, how much and how do you accomplish the project? Thank You! Nemo. I've been using Bel-Ray 80/90 Hypoid gear oil. I think it cost me about 6 bucks for a quart but then again, I've had it for quite a while. I don't actually measure the amount but that is listed in the manual somewhere I'm sure. How? ... I take the left side bag off so I can get at the fill plug easier. Unscrew the drain plug under the pumpkin and let the old oil drain out (no silly...not onto the floor!!!... into a drain pan LOL). That plug has a magnet so I clean it completely in varsol and re-install it (after the oil has completely drained out). Somewhere in the process I've taken the fill plug out and cleaned it also. I then use a long, thin funnel and slowly pour in the new oil ... when it starts overfilling, I stop, take the funnel out and let it flow. Then I take a small syringe and suck out some of the fluid until it's just at the base of the fill plug threads... then install the fill plug and clean up the mess I made. BTW, that was 3 questions, not a couple.
LilBeaver Posted August 30, 2010 #42 Posted August 30, 2010 ... BTW, that was 3 questions, not a couple... A couple may vary depending on who you ask :banana: ---- As for the gear oil I picked up a quart (or so) of Mobil 1 Fully synthetic gear oil/final drive oil 75w-90 (it is the closest I could find to the recommended weight). It should take 6.4 fl oz from dry to full (0.2 U.S. Qt). SilvrT's method is basically what I do except I don't spill any oil .
Bobby G Posted August 30, 2010 #43 Posted August 30, 2010 For me, it's just a little peace of mind. I have always changed my vehicles' oil and filter at 3K to 4K mile intervals. Same with the bikes since I started riding again. That's about 3 changes a year. The $40 bucks it costs per change is what I usually spend eating out with the wife on a Friday or Saturday night, so it's not that big a deal. The final drive lube on the RSV gets changed out every 3rd oil change, or about once, maybe twice a year. No biggie. So if that is over-maintaining, I have no problem with that. My RSV is purring like a kitten on this schedule with 51K, and the H-D Softail is doing great as well with 42K. *Pauses to knock on wood*! As to how long it takes, it's usually a pleasurable 30 minutes in the man cave, including clean up. Actually, if I over-maintain anything, it might be cleaning the K&N air filters. But that's just a phobia of mine. Thanks for stirring the pot a little on this. I enjoy reading everyone's differing opinions and suggestions.
Snarley Bill Posted August 30, 2010 #44 Posted August 30, 2010 1800 gold wings have 8000 mile oil change intervals. i change mine every 3000 and use the best mobil1 10w-30 available. more piece of mind. the amount of rearend oil these bikes take is so small i don't worry about the cost. the more often you change the oil the longer your engine will last. some of our ultra precision cnc machines have total loss lubrication. meaning, the oil gets used one time. they probably have close to 0 spindle bearing wear. stands to reason new oil is cleaner than even slightly used oil. speaking of automotive differentials. i have seen many with galded gear faces. most have pitted tapered roller bearings, and they keep on ticking. the biggest enemy to the differential is acid created by condensation. moral of the story, change that rear end oil often. ball and roller bearings just seem to hate any form of acidity in oil. when the bearing sits idle where the ball or roller contacts the race, major pitting will occur if there is any acid present at all.
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